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Do you mean making the inside form out of some other material instead of wax? No, I havent tried anything besides the syntactic form. For a straight cylinder, like this sample, that might work quite well.

The real advantage to something like lost wax, I think, is that the shape is only limited by your imagination. If you want to make it thicker in the middle (like some of the elaborate CF euro guns) then you can do so without regard to whether the inside form can be withdrawn. You could just as easily start with a 2" by 2" by 60" block of wax, and carve the most elaborate shape you could think of. As long as the wax has a way out.

What he said.

Quote from seaweed

Try leaving it out in the sun. Might just melt the interface a bit and let the wax slide out.

If sunlight is enough to slightly melt the wax, then the heat of the heat gun and curing process probably would too, which would cause problems.

Yep. That's pretty much what I had in mind, and is the main reason that I ordered a casting wax that melts around 155°F. The large diameter aluminum tubing inside also has the added benefit of keeping everything straight during the molding process.

Quote from oto

spearfishing is not a right, it is a priviledge. 1 20lb grouper is a lot of fish, if a closure and/or decreased limit improves the odds of getting one of those more often, I think it is a good thing!

I agree completely. What I meant was that I thought eliminating the commerical harvest would have more positive effect than a few months closure on rec harvest. And if anyone can convince me that these stocks are in need of more protection, I will wholeheartedly support it. I have two sons, and I want them to enjoy the same opportunities that I do. But the inshore grouper and snapper here are at levels that I have not seen in 15 years.

BUT. When recs have a closed season, and commerical guys get to keep red grouper that are SMALLER than the rec limit, then you have to ask WTF?

I think it's less about the seasonal closures, and more about the allowable catch that the fishery can sustain. Geography does matter. If I can't shoot snapper and grouper (both now with extended closed seaons), then there is litterally nothing here to hunt. I like to dive for it's own sake as well, but ask yourself how you would feel if they outlawed spearfishing in your area for six months out of the year. That is the net effect of those closures in NW Florida. I'm exaggerating to make a point, but not by much. Cobia and mackeral are seasonal here. AJs and triggerfish are too deep for most freedivers.

If you want to eat venison, you buy farm raised vension. There are no commercial deer hunters who get to take more than the normal 1 per day that the average guy can take.

If you want to eat duck, you buy farm raised duck. Nobody has a special license to shoot 100 wild mallards a day.

Same with buffalo, quail, or any other recreationally managed land species that I can think of. None are on the "brink of collapse" so far as I know.

When I was a kid in SW Louisiana 20 plus years ago, it was rare to catch a speckled trout over 3-4 lbs. They eliminated the commercial harvest, and now recreational guys travel from all over the state and country to fish those same waters for trophy sized specks.

Public resources belong to the public. Not a select few.

Looking forward to trying some of the more complicated shapes we discussed. This carbon fiber stuff is fun, it opens up a whole new area of challenges and opportunities to make out of the box stuff.

I've got to give you credit for thinking outside the box. But you are familiar with the K.I.S.S. principle, right?

Regarding electrical heating, don't overlook temperature control. Once melted, waxes can boil just like any other liquid, potentially creating a pocket of trapped pressure looking for a way out. Some waxes are also flamable.

But I like the ideas. Keep 'em coming.

The only problem with a larger metal rod, is that it would have less resistance to the flow of electricity, right? I might find myself needing a very high current to sufficiently heat it.

The heat gun might work well, as long as could keep the molten wax from dripping down on the gun.

Quote from seaweed

Melt the wax?

Connect the inside rod to a battery terminal.

Maybe you can rig up some sort of resistance wiring around the rod that will help when pouring and getting wax out.

I thought about some sort of resitance heater, but figured it would only melt what was close to the rod, and might not get the wax adhering to the walls. But maybe worth a try.

This was just a small piece to test the concept, but it's got me a little pumped up about the possibilities.

The idea is to make a carbon fiber barrel, with a built in enclosed track. Furthermore, to do it without the use of syntactic foam, which can make a small barrel a little too heavy. My thought was to use the "lost wax" process.

So here we go. First, a form to pour the wax blank that will ultimately form the shape of the barrel inside diameter. I did it on a mill, but a router would work. Just two opposing halves cut in a 2x4.

I used cheap paraffin wax, which has a melting point of around 125-130°F. This caused some problems later on, but it also has the drawback that it shrinks a lot when it cools, which makes it hard to get a complete casting. After a few trials, and the addition of an aluminum rod down the middle to help hold it together, I got a good casting. The tin foil didn't work very well, as it leaves wrinkles, but Vaseline makes a great release agent, and the casting popped right out. After I got a reasonable core, I cut a groove down the top which would later encapsulate the track.

Sorry I couldn't take pics while I was laying up the layers of epoxy, but this was the setup. I put a single bi-axial sleeve on first. Then two wraps with uni-axial. I then slid a small biaxial sleeve around a delrin rod, and pushed that down into the groove. You can just see the black delrin rod in the first pic. Lastly, a biaxial sleeve around the outside, with heat shrink tubing to cinch it all down.

When it was cured, I had this what you see in the first pic. Then I used a straight router bit, and a ball end cutter to cut out the delrin rod:

Then, into the oven at about 180°F for a few minutes to melt out the wax:

The finished barrel came out just under 1-3/8" in diameter, and right about 3/32" wall thickness

A few lessons learned:

Paraffin won't work. I didn't show the other end of the test piece that collapsed from the heat of the heat shrink gun and curing epoxy. But it obviously is close, since most of the piece worked out. I've ordered a small block of casting wax, which melts at about 155°F, to give that a try. Before starting to lay up the carbon fiber, I put the wax core in the freezer for a little while, hoping that would help resist melting from the curing epoxy. It just caused cracks.

But overall, I think it might be workable. I'm pleasantly surprised that I haven't run into any serious "show stoppers" yet.

Think it could work for a full length barrel? The biggest problem that I see would be melting out the wax. My thought was to put it inside a steel pipe with a cap on the bottom, and fill with boiling water. That should be hot enough to melt the wax, without damaging the tube. Or stand the pipe up in a bed of charcoal like a big dutch oven.

Stay tuned . . .

Quote from pargo

I will order this band material again if there's interest.

I only have a little left, and I've been happy with it. Count me in if you put together another order. I would rather keep my money among friends if I can . . .

Quote from Don Paul

Hi Jeff, I'm thinking that the gun builder flamed the art with a torch to produce the blue patina. I have a wood
gun I built in 84 that had alfa grade Ti bits that I blued, but it has worn off over the years.
Cheers, Don

Probably so. Titainium reacts with oxygen when it gets hot. If you heat it a little, it gets straw yellow colored. If you heat it more, it gets purple.

On this page of the website, there is a colored picture that looked like the color that I have seen when titanium is welded without sufficient shielding gas to keep away the oxygen. So I translated it. If google translator is right, he says it's titanium.

http://www3.ocn.ne.jp/~koisan7/page026.html

I know that the artwork is completely unnecessary from a pragmatic standpoint, but I have to respect the amount of work required to make that into his own unique vision. Out of titanium, no less.

Quote from pargo

Very nice fish Greek. If you like I can sacrifice enough of my precious low ID 16mm rubber to make you two bands, so you can compare it to the other rubber. It's the one from this thread http://spearfishing.world/spea…sing-water-intrusion.html

Dan - You know there is an iodine solution that you can soak your bands in to close that hole completely . . . <img src= " height="23" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x">

Sorry, couldn't help it.

Welcome. I often ask for input on my goofier ideas here instead of elsewhere, and I look forward to your insight.

Thanks Hau. I'm very interested to hear your results.

It looks like a work in progress, and only you know what it should look like in the end - - - "Mind's Eye"

As with most things, there are 2 sides to the story.
_________________________________________________________________________________

Misconceptions about MAKO guns.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hey Guys and Gals,

As I take orders and speak with many of you on the telephone, it has come to my attention that a few people still have a misunderstanding about the source of our guns. The idea that our guns are simply “copies of Rabitech guns” which are being made in China IS NOT TRUE.

A recent post on Spearboard stated that we copied the Rabitech grips and produced them in China. This is not true!

I am sure it was an innocent mistake.
I am sure no harm was meant.
None the less, it is not true!

Again, I am sure that this has been an innocent mistake, but it is important that from this point forward, that we clear up any misconception in that regard.

As has been explained on our website and in prior posts, the facts are as follows:

MAKO railguns are NOT made in China.

Rabitech railguns are NOT made in China.

The railguns were designed and developed by engineer, Mr. Daniel Hu.

Mr. Daniel Hu then showed the railguns to Rabitech in SA. For obvious reasons, Rabitech liked what they saw and Daniel issued a license to Rabitech to sell his high quality railguns in South Africa, Australia and New Zealand.

Mr. Daniel Hu then issued a license to MAKO Spearguns, to sell these same high quality railguns in the USA.

With the exception of our closed muzzles, the only modifications Daniel made to these railguns were the Rabitech and MAKO logos which were added to the grips.

All MAKO and Rabitech railguns are produced and will continue to be produced at the same factory that has produced the guns since their entry into the market.

The relationship between MAKO Spearguns, Rabitech and the original manufacturer is very beneficial for all parties. Increased production has lowered manufacturing costs, resulting in the same high quality products at very affordable prices.
In closing, I wish to thank you for your time in allowing me to correct this innocent mistake.

We will continue to do everything in our power to demonstrate our commitment to our customers by providing the very best customer service.

Please take a moment to join our email list. We will soon be announcing the availability of the new grip for our Iconic Pro Railguns.

Dive safe,
Dano