I once made a stainless Heinrich tab for a guy to use on a euro with a broken release. I know it's a little lame, but he said it worked well, and I mostly just wanted to see if I could do it. The reason it is so small is because he was shooting it through a closed muzzle. It was just big enough to securely hold two wraps of 300 lb mono.
I don't know how consistent the placement of the rear loading tab is from one spear supplier to another. I like the clean looks of this system, but it looks to me like it might be a little lesss tolerant if you drop in a spear where the rear tab is a little further forward or rearward of what the grooves were designed for.
Sige asi pana
I drill the hole before making the pin. When I have the hole done, I use a smaller diameter piece of wire, insert it all the way to the bottom of the hole, and cut it off at a length that projects as far as I want the pin to. Then I use the wire as a pattern to cut the real pin to length.
Just curious how you guys hold your guns when surfacing. In our murky waters, there is constant and heavy boat traffic, and it can be very difficult (for me) to figure out how close, and in which direction the danger lies. The guy that I first started scuba diving with taught me to surface with my gun pointed up. It saved my life on one occasion when a boat idled over me as I was ascending and about 4' deep. I saw the boat at the last second and used my gun to push off from the bottom of the hull. The prop broke the tip off my spear shaft.
Of course, pointing a loaded gun skyward is not without danger to others.
Edit - Fuzz must type faster.
Something that I learned only recently (last trip actually), but it is much easier for me to pull the bands with my hands "palms up". I don't know why, but since I first started chest loading, it was always my first instinct to grab the bands "palms down".
Makes sense, really. It's the same motion as a chin-up exercise, and I can do many more chin-ups with a "palms in" grip than with a "palms out".
. . .plus I don't know how to make a pin stay in one position..
Dan, can you clarify what you mean here? I don't drill a hole straight down into the wood, and then bend the pin. I drill the hole at the angle I want, so that the pin can remain straight. That way, there are no forces trying to rotate the pin in the hole.
Thanks for the workout! I am looking forward to giving it a try. Definately, don't try this without a spotter. You can and probably will crush your PB static before someone fishes you out.
Great to hear, Hau! Glad it's working well with the modified line wrap pin.
Tin Man is anyone else having this issue with the muzzle?
Of the 8 that I made, the guys on this board account for 6. So what's been posted here is pretty much all the information that I have so far.
Making the track deeper is a little tougher than adjusting the pin length / angle. I can't cut the bottom lower, because that has to match the barrel. To make the sides higher, I would have to start with a larger diameter piece of delrin, which of course would be more expensive.
I may have misunderstood.
Hau - Were you talking about the Aimrite handle like is used on their Venom guns? Or were you thinking of adding an american trigger and the plastic aimrite handle to a CF barrel?
Hau,
I had kind of intended this type of barrel for use iin a hybrid construction. But I think that it would be possible to adapt a standard handle. Tough to say for sure though, unless I had one in my hands to play with.
Anyone have an extra handle that they would be willing to donate to science?
Excellent description Hau. Thank you. I now know exactly what you mean, and will certainly include that change if I make any more.
Thank you for the detail Hau. Which way do you think the pin needs more angle? More to the side, or more forward, or both? Would it be better if the pin were positioned closer to the end of the muzzle?
I was a little afraid that the CF barrel might be slightly different, but it's good to know that it is pretty close.
Pucho that gun is beautiful! The wood really has a warm glow. What did you use for a finish?
Love the handle too. It looks like you have really mastered the Shapelock.
Hmmm. I see your point, and like the general direction. But I see a potential problem, based on conflicting properties of the wax. To get a wax that has minimal shrinkage when it solidifies, I have ordered a "casting wax". Because this stuff is normally used for casting jewelry and such, it flows like water to capture the tiniest details. I suspect that it will pour through the holes and fill the inside of the pipe.
I guess that one possibility might be to dip the pipe in a thicker wax first, to seal the holes.
Wait. What new gun? Did I miss something?
Great mess of fish, by the way!
. . . an inflatable form to put the CF around
If you use an inflatale inner core, I think that you would need something rigid around the outside to limit the exansion. Added complexity.
. . .or just making a thin innercore out of 2 parts(same mold) gluing together and laying the rest on top of that.
Not quite sure I have my brain wrapped around this. Are you talking two pieces glued end to end, or a top piece / bottom piece glued along a horizontal seem? What is the advantage to that?
