Shapelock

Quote from hau

Does it float?

It sinks, but just barely.

Quote from hau

How "tough" is it?

Let's clarify "tough". Shapelock is not as hard as ABS or some of the plastics typically used for molded handles and muzzles. It can be scratched and gouged by sharp rocks, barnacles, etc. But it is "tough" in the more technical sense of being able to absorb energy by bending without breaking. I would say that it is similar to UHMW plastic in that respect. Bending a thin strip back and forth does not appear to fatigue it.

Quote from hau

What other uses for spearing could shapelock be used?

I kept meaning to make a thin, form fitting knife sheath out if it, but then LunkerBuster posted that other stuff he uses. I also find it handy in the shop. If I am trying to hold an odd shaped round part in my vise, for example, I will sometimes mold shapelock around it to make a square block that I can easily grip without damaging the part.

Don't leave it on your dashboard... learned that one the hard way. :laughing3:

I haven't had any trouble with the Shapelock on my hot aluminum boat in the summer. But I guess a hot car in the sun might be asking too much.

It's very easy to color. I use a small tube of dye that I got at West Marine. It's the stuff they sell for coloring gelcoat, and cleans up with water. Wood Guy had some stuff that we used for Core's handle a while back that did NOT clean up with water! Both worked fine, though the oil based stuff will probably hold brighter colors longer.

The Shapelock comes in the form of little pellets. If you want to color it, it works best to do so BEFORE you form the pellets into a larger shape. Measure out how much you want, and dump the pellets into water at about 150°. The white pellets will slowly turn clear as they heat up, and they will stick together into a spongy looking mass. When the whole thing is clear, take it out and shake off excess water. Apply a several little BB sized blobs of dye, and knead it until the color is evenly dispersed. If it starts to cool and stiffen, just drop it back in the hot water for a minute to reheat it.

It does take a fair bit of kneading to get uniform color. But once the dye is thoroughly mixed in, it will not leach out even if it is the water based variety.

To get a multi colored look, start with a base piece, and wrap thin, colored, shapelock strings around it. As you knead and mold it into shape, the strings will squish and deform into a more random pattern.

Quote from Tin Man

I haven't had any trouble with the Shapelock on my hot aluminum boat in the summer. But I guess a hot car in the sun might be asking too much.

It didn't melt completely, but did slump and needed to be reshaped. On the flip-side, I remember leaving a football mouthguard on my dashboard years ago... and it reduced to a 1/4" puddle of plastic. :laughing3:

During summer, I left a shapelock handle in the sun... but other than being warm, didn't seem to affect structural integrity. The car... was a bit too much for the poor handle.

(It was an aluminum frame too - thought I should mention that. Figured that'd make a diff as it transmits heat easier to inside the handle.)

Quote from hau

Oh yea, this is starting to get better an better, because the shapelock is clear UNLESS you add color.
I love clear stuff, except my underwear and my mask skirt:D
I went to shapelocks web site and it seems bare of instructions, specifications, etc.
Tin Man, you said "measure out" the amount you need, how it that done?
How do you knead it when it is 150F?

Hau, it's white. It gets a bit translucent when heating up, but it'll be white when it's cooled down and set... unless you color it, of course.

I know from past experience that I need 8-10 level tablespoons full to do a handle. But it is no big deal to pinch off any extra, or stick more on if you find that your original guess was off. If you are trying to keep a uniform color, then I would err on the side of mixing a little too much, and removing any excess.

Quote from fuzz

. . . (It was an aluminum frame too - thought I should mention that. Figured that'd make a diff as it transmits heat easier to inside the handle.)

Yes, good point. Forming handle grips around an aluminum frame is a little harder for me than when I use a Delrin frame, for exactly that reason. The aluminum conducts heat, so the inside of the grip gets squishy, and the final shaping is a little more difficult because the grip wants to move around on the frame. Once cooled, it's fine. It just takes a little more patience.

Yep.

I get it from www.shapelock.com. I asked once about lower pricing for larger orders, but they weren't receptive. At one point, I tracked down the material, and found I could get a pretty good price, but had to buy several hundred pounds, so I gave up.

There is another product called "Friendly Plastic" that comes in colored strips. It may be the same stuff, but I have never tried it.

Quote from Tin Man

I get it from www.shapelock.com. I asked once about lower pricing for larger orders, but they weren't receptive. At one point, I tracked down the material, and found I could get a pretty good price, but had to buy several hundred pounds, so I gave up.

There is another product called "Friendly Plastic" that comes in colored strips. It may be the same stuff, but I have never tried it.

From what I've seen, friendly plastic is the same... but a bit pricier. Good alternative if you're looking to make some psychedelic colored handles.

Nice tutorial, Tin Man!:thumbsup2:

I think the Shapelock is plenty strong enough for a muzzle, if the band slot or holes were closed (without an insertion slot).

Quote from Tin Man

I think the Shapelock is plenty strong enough for a muzzle, if the band slot or holes were closed (without an insertion slot).

I've heard references in a couple places that say that Polycaprolactone isn't UV stable and it needs a UV stabilizer like some epoxies. Can't confirm or deny it, but good thing to look into if used for something load bearing like a muzzle. In a handle, not nearly as critical.

If you have spare time... you can use shapelock to make your own personal android.
http://www.xrobots.co.uk/android10.htm