homemade polespear

    got my ream today and began reaming the tube and fitting the rods. should be able to finish up tomorrow and have it ready for welding by saturday. Im hoping to take it out sunday and try it out. Will try to post pics tomorrow or thursday. it looks like it will be about 6'6" without a tip so total length will be 7'6" or 9'

    Quote from Dan

    What is reaming Mike? Is it reducing the outer diameter of a pipe in a stepped fashion, so it can slide into another section of pipe?


    A tool to widen a hole, or to ream a hole.
    Cheers, Don

    exactly like Don said, its essentially a precision drill bit - standard drill bits drill oblong holes whereas a ream makes an almost perfectly round hole. I mentioned in an earlier post that the rod wouldnt slide inside the tube.... After taking some measurements I found that the inside diameter (ID) of the tube was .495" and the the outside diameter (OD) of the rod was in fact .500", thus causing the problem and holding me up until today.

    Quote from Dan

    Thanks Don.


    In this case I'm not clear on what needs to be reamed with this pole spear.


    I'm making the spear out of hollow tube, but the ends need to be solid so that I can tap one for the tip to screw into and the back end needs to be crossdrilled for the band to go through. So the way I decided to make a hollow tube solid is by welding a piece of rod inside the tube. if that doesnt make sense ill try to post pictures tomorrow and that should make it make sense.

    SO im about 90% complete, unfortunately I broke my drill press today so Im just going to have the last precision piece done at a machine shop tomorrow (hopefully). Once its drilled the entire thing will be ready for welding. heres some pics:


    Image 1 shows the length and diameter difference compared to my odor (remember my homemade weighs 20% less too). Image 2 shows the grip area, I know there were some questions/concerns regarding this area. Notice the holes drilled into the tube, thats where the plug welding takes place. and Image 3 shows the cross-drilled and chamfered hole and the ray odor band attached

    Edited 2 times, last by mrmike ().

    Just curious, but why are you welding the rod in place instead of just securing it with a simple pin? I could understand if the fitup was poor, but since you have gone through the trouble to accurately ream the tube ID, it should be a nice fit. Probably good enough that a little silicone or locktite during assembly would easily waterproof the joint.


    You probably already knew this, but most aluminum rod and tube extrusions are alloy 6061 or 6063. Both get some of their higher strength from heat treating, and will soften considerably when you weld them.


    Also, I was wondering about your idea of forming a grip around the smaller rod. Would a formed shapelock grip make it easier to hold?

    Edited once, last by Guest ().

    Quote from Tin Man

    Just curious, but why are you welding the rod in place instead of just securing it with a simple pin? I could understand if the fitup was poor, but since you have gone through the trouble to accurately ream the tube ID, it should be a nice fit. Probably good enough that a little silicone or locktite during assembly would easily waterproof the joint.


    You probably already knew this, but most aluminum rod and tube extrusions are alloy 6061 or 6063. Both get some of their higher strength from heat treating, and will soften considerably when you weld them.


    Also, I was wondering about your idea of forming a grip around the smaller rod. Would a formed shapelock grip make it easier to hold?


    its actually pressed together so tightly right now that i cant disassemble it. the welds make it permanent, so after repeated collisions with fish/reef/rock it won't loosen. My dad and I discussed welding it for a couple hours over the past month and although its not necessary it wont hurt it either(the strength compromised shouldnt ever be noticable in this application - however if it were tested then yes a strength decrease would be observed), given the correct aluminum welding rod is used/proper heat and penetration etc. (hes the welder not me, hes an aviation welder taught by a welder in the airforce) so the weld will both strengthen the joint and seal the tube.


    About the grip... im currently planning on self amalgamating tape although im not hugely sold on its succes(see where its folding/sliding on my odor after about 8 trips) i briefly considered a poured/molded soft plastic but didnt know where to get the supplies for such a thing. I know in middle school we made plastic grips for tools but the tools were just dipped and the plastic was far too hot to mold. I'm not sure if theres anything out there that is soft enough to mold without being so soft that the strength of the band will destroy it. If you have any ideas/suggestions im all ears

    Edited 2 times, last by mrmike ().

    Quote from mrmike


    If you are using any of the 6000 series aluminum alloys, you really don't want that weld that you show running all the way around the 1/2" rod in the second option. It's not about the quality of the welder. It's simply that the heat will further weaken (anneal) what is already the weak link. The weak spot isn't where the weld IS. The weak spot is the edge of the Heat Affected Zone, where the heat of welding has softened the base metal of the 1/2" rod, but there is no additional filler metal to provide reinforcement.


    Maybe I'm over thinking it. I tend to do that. I get really mad at myself when something breaks because I overlooked a design flaw.


    Anyway, you can get the shapelock plastic at www.shapelock.com. When cooled, it is about as hard as UHMW. There are also a couple of ways to make the surface more "grippy" if you go that route.

    Edited once, last by Guest ().

    Quote from Tin Man

    If you are using any of the 6000 series aluminum alloys, you really don't want that weld that you show running all the way around the 1/2" rod in the second option. It's not about the quality of the welder. It's simply that the heat will further weaken (anneal) what is already the weak link.


    You can get the shapelock plastic at www.shapelock.com. When cooled, it is about as hard as UHMW. There are also a couple of ways to make the surface more "grippy" if you go that route.


    correct me if im wrong - my view of it is that the aluminum is not the weakpoint but a slip-fit joint is, by welding it together doesnt that make the aluminum weaker but the joint stronger???


    I checked out that shapelock stuff, it could be a very viable solution especially since the spear is stepped and would further reduce the chances of it sliding. please enlighten me about making it more grippy(first thought that came to mind was to use something textured to mold it)

    Quote from mrmike

    correct me if im wrong - my view of it is that the aluminum is not the weakpoint but a slip-fit joint is, by welding it together doesnt that make the aluminum weaker but the joint stronger???


    A tight fitting joint can be an incredibly strong assembly, because it avoids all the extra unknowns that a weld brings. Changes in the crystal structure (embrittlement), annealing (softening) at the heat affected zone, stress concentrations where the weld bead stops, and on and on. Obviously, welding is done every second of every day around the world. But lots of times, a good mechanical joint is actually better.


    In your case, the weld will be plenty strong, and the addition of the extra filler metal will compensate for the reduced strength due to losing the heat treatment on the aluminum. But where your weld stops, right at the "toe" is where the problem will arise. At that point, you no longer have the reinforcement from the weld bead, but you still applied enough heat to anneal the rod.


    Quote from mrmike

    I checked out that shapelock stuff, it could be a very viable solution especially since the spear is stepped and would further reduce the chances of it sliding. please enlighten me about making it more grippy(first thought that came to mind was to use something textured to mold it)


    A textured glove, or a thread bare cloth will work. You can also press it into coarse rock salt. When the Shapelock is hardened, run it under warm water to disolve the salt, and leave a coarse textured surface.

    ok, so I called some local machine shops and am not getting the answers I was hoping for..... The only place that said they'd do it has a $40 minimum, i kinda laughed at the guy and tried to reason with him.... $40 for a 2 inch deep hole sounds ridiculous to me, not to mention they said it would take a couple days... im still awestruck thats more than Ive invested in the entire setup thus far....

    Quote from LunkerBuster

    Very cool so far. I think that recessed area DEMANDS shapelock. I have had good hectoring results with a lobster snot glove.


    I agree with the shape lock stuff, today using the workout glove I was literally peeling the tape down itself... a very thin layer is left but most of it is bunched up in a wad where the bottom of my hand would be :( I think a 1/2" band pulled over 4 feet and a glove to let me hold it there for minutes on end if need be is just asking too much of the self-amalgamating tape.


    LB please define a "lobster snot glove" your not talking the loose knit like gloves with the silicone weave on it are you????

    yeah them exactly...they have two types of contours and make very interesting patterns in thermo-moldable materials..make sure it is wet before you use it or the shapelock might stick into the fibers,

    i like to spear fish

    ok so the end piece has been tapped, and I shaped/tapered both ends. Welding should get done this weekend and next week it will hopefully get its first uses. Here she is with a 30" tip making her ~9':



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