Posts by Dan

The Ermes Leonardo reels with automatic spooling are now available in 3 sizes, 30m 60m and 90m Ermes Leonardo Reel (spearfishing.store). The 60m and 30m are perfect for the reef.

Hi Richard, welcome to the forum.

I can't recommend fiberglass fins because good fiberglass blades will cost about the same as carbon blades. Carbon fins are faster and lighter than fiberglass and nowadays quite durable depending on manufacturer, so there's no benefit to fiberglass fins. Cheap fiberglass fins are little better than plastic. Speardiver C90 are excellent carbon fins and are competitively priced Speardiver C90 Carbon Spearfishing Fins. I recommend medium stiffness.

For your stated measurements plus 2mm socks, the best fit length wise is OMER Stingray size 43-44 OMER Stingray Foot Pockets (spearfishing.store). Looks like you have wide feet so not sure how much pressure you'll feel from the sides. If too tight you'll have to go to the next size up, but then the foot pockets will be too long. Good luck.

I found a loaded pneumatic a few years ago. It spend much longer on the bottom than yours as was evident from all the barnacle growth on it. Still fired right there and then although with less pressure.

Should you use a reel with your speargun? If no reel, what's the alternative? Good answers here from Daniel Mann.

I found an inexpensive way to repair holes and cracks in a kayak and other thick plastic material using a plastic welder stapler. The tool heats up a stainless steel staple which melts the plastic and gets fused into it becoming integral part of the hull material.

In this situation I had the broken piece from the hole. The edges were jagged and fit was tight, with no access to the repair area from the inside of the kayak. The solution was to drill a hole in the middle of the loose piece, push a cord through and tie a knot on the other side to secure the cord, then pull very hard for the piece to snap into position from the inside out. This small hole was later filled with melted plastic. The broken piece fit so well it did not need to be taped to hold in place while I was stapling.

The best method is to put the staple on the hull and start heating until it begins to sink into the material, some finesse is required here so as not to push it in too deep so it comes out the other side, or leave it too shallow and exposed. Once deep enough twist to lock the staple in, a squirt of water to cool the weld fast, and pull off the tool leaving the staple embedded in the plastic.

After finished stapling all around, snip off the metal staple leads with a side cutter, and use the second plastic welder/iron to melt and flatten the repair areas. Add/melt more plastic into the seams if needed, polyethylene material is easily obtained as many plastic containers are made of it. In this case I used a tear off piece from the lid of a grey 5 gallon paint bucket which matched the color of my kayak perfectly. Sanding the repair flat with coarse then fine grit sandpaper with an electric palm sander, then painting to match the original camo pattern, and kayak looks brand new. The stapled repair is very strong and will withstand direct impact.

Plastic welder stapler on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08Z…o2ov_dt_b_product_details

Plastic welder iron Harbor Freight https://www.harborfreight.com/…ic-welding-kit-60662.html

That's an unusual looking fish.

Beautiful place. Thanks for sharing.

Interesting. What is the logic for one month and specifically May?

Nice fish.

When you say season opened do you mean there are regulations in Greece prohibiting spearfishing outside season time?

Welcome to the forum!

Getting the handle/grip/hand/arm up inline with the shaft is important, but I disagree about it being %80 of the accuracy. Most of the accuracy comes from correctly configured stock, bands and shaft.

The point I made which you took issue with has no direct correlation to accuracy, I just meant that you can only shoot the gun holding/gripping it in one way with this contoured handle. The simplest example to understand it is if you were to pass this gun to a dive partner to use for some reason, and he was a lefty, it would be difficult for him to shoot. Actually the pictured handle looks left handed so my example would be vice versa. But whatever floats your boat..

Quote from MarvaBEvans

Hello, Glad to join this forum.

Welcome to the forum!

I haven't tried this handle. The difficult point with this type of handle configuration is whether the trigger slot matches your trigger mechanism as far as range of movement and/or space available inside the trigger guard. The trigger itself can sometimes be cut if the trigger guard is too shallow. But that may affect the trigger pull.

In general I'm not a fan of heavily contoured speargun handles, because you can only shoot the gun in the straight forward position.

Pete's explanation is correct.

The Salvimar style muzzle bungee is not meant to be used with mono shooting line, rather something like reel line. It's a poor design in any case, a budget solution when no other option is available. I'd toss it in the trash. This is a good bungee https://spearfishing.store/speargun-muzzle-bungee it has a quick release snap built in to detach the mono shooting line when needed.

Actually you spiral line through the holes and around it from one end to the other.

Is it rubber and stretchy?

Good to see you're still kicking it Nick.

Nice fish. You picked your shot well. Welcome to the forum.

Not that I know of.