Oil finishes

  • I'm putting together a blank that will end up being a rollergun (maybe). I want to do an oil finish, because it is easy and cheap and I have to contend with areas around the roller. That said, I only know about oil finishes on teak and padauk (Riffe). I'm not sure about sapele's oil content or if that matters very much.


    I can always go the epoxy route if the oiling isn't a good choice.

  • teak is really the only wood that contains oil, padauk doesn't that i know of (i could be wrong). sapele is a good choice for guns, if the lam joins seem tigh and there are no screws on joints i think oil is fine.


    many european wood guns are made with sapele as well as jbl elite (a really good gun for the price imo). the jbl is not laminated but many euros are and many come with an oil finish.


    incidently, you can tell how much oil is in the wood when you cut it. teak cuts without creating much dust, the shaving tend to clump together and due to the oil. other wood however makes a dust storm with fine dust that hangs in the air and gets all over the place includng every orifice in your body:)

    steve veros


    in loving memory of paolo

  • you could go for danish oil " finish and epoxy fo only one time in the end..
    this could get more deepness out of the wood grain..

    sometimes i m asking if the freaks know that they are in the majority..

  • I can guarantee that Padauk has a LOT of dust. Thanks for the info. Whats the benefit of Danish oil vs. Teak oil?


    Epoxy is only a pain because it is difficult to get perfect, so I'd like to skip it at least once. I do like Dan's Penetrating Expoxy finish and I've had good success with Bristol Finish as well as Phil's epoxy, but they aren't "Perfect". Teak oil takes almost no skill in comparison to those as I've refinished a couple Riffes.

  • not sure what the difference is between danish, teak or linseed but i suspect any of them would work to keep the wood for drying and that's the bottom line.


    hard finishes are a pain to get perfect and once you scratch or ding the gun you need to sand off the old stuff and redo completely where as with oil you reapply and the damage is minimized.


    i think as long as you don't mix different types of wood and if you stick to teak or mahogany (or any mahogany substitutes other than philippine) oil is fine.


    i have noticed wood other than the ones mentioned above tend to swell up quite a bit once wet even with a hard finish where teak and mahogany tend to swell much less. i'm always weary about a guns that swells more than i expect.

    steve veros


    in loving memory of paolo

  • I think I might go the epoxy or urethane route for my sapele/padauk Bluewater gun because of the mixed woods.


    For my Sapele Mahogany gun, I'll try the teak oil.

  • You are building more and more guns. Wheres the fish?!??!?!?!? :crazy: :thumbsup2:

  • You are building more and more guns. Wheres the fish?!??!?!?!? :crazy: :thumbsup2:


    There's this thing called "fishing season" in RI. It started two weeks ago when the water got above 50 degrees!


    You also have to make the blanks way ahead of time to allow it to settle.

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