Posts by behslayer

    George, Looks Good. I'm always seeing potential safety issues..


    That's a big beautiful wood stock you have there which 99/1OO times is going to support wahtever pressures you put on it. With 7 Screws in a row on the centerline, this makes for a potential weak point. It's an easy fix by putting in 1-2 Cross Dowels. Another thing I'd consider with the two bottom Screws of the Muzzle is to make those Machine screws which connect to a Bolt which has been dropped and buried into the top of the track. This will make the muzzle and gun stronger.


    Nice Design. Thanks for Sharing.

    Very Interesting!


    Nice Lines with the Wood Working and integration of the handle. Does the Muzzle Wrap down along the bottom of the barrel and screw in again? I see how the Angle of the Muzzle offsets some of the forces acting on it, but only one screw would make me nervous. If the muzzle wraps down under the bottom of the gun and screws in again it would provide a stronger platform?

    From a gun builder's point of view, this gun is really forward thinking. Raised Handle, Ballasted Cuttlefish Shapes, New Concept Muzzle, Full tapering, there are some really interesting concepts being worked out in this gun.


    Nice Job!!!!!

    Good write up Dan, and I really like your Camo and Colors.


    I'd have to agree that SmoothSkin Outer Wetsuits are not the Ideal for most Spearfishermen and certainly not for beginner divers. However, there are few things worth noting about them. A Good Chicle Suit, ie Open Cell/SmoothSkin is extremely Flexible. Sure, it will tear easier, come apart at the seams, and wear out sooner, but there are divers out there who will repair their suits with a smile for the Flexibility and Warmth of a Chicle Suit. Why did I put Warmth...


    There are several different grades of Outer Nylon which can be used. Regular Nylon is almost See through, and doesn't have the Ultra flexibility. There's all sorts of mixes which can be used for an Outer Lined Suit from UltraThin Super Flexible Nylons which are normall used on the inside of a Suit, to Nylon, to UltraStretch Nylons, to the Heavier, UltraFlexible, more durable Ultraspans, and Lycras. Here's the catch.. The better quality the outer lining of a Suit is.. ie Lycra or Ultraspan, the heavier it is, the more Water it retains.. I know.. some companies will tell you they use Hydrophobic Lycras.. but anyways, the more Water these retain, the more evaporation that takes place once you get out of the water, get into your Zodiac, and cruise to the next spot.. This is where Chicle and Smoothskin Outer Suits Excel.. This is why these materials are used for the Chest and Back panels of most Surfing Wetsuits. So, if you are a boat diver.. who dives in multiple locations, does drifts, etc.. in areas where you need a 3mm or more who frequently gets cold once on the boat.. then a Smoothskin Outer or Smoothskin Combo Suit is a good match for you. That's one big reason why these suits are so popular in Europe. For me, in the Tropics, where getting in and out of the Water always involves literally getting dragged, rolled, and smudged against Sharp Coral in Big Nasty Surf.. I go for suits that have the most durable outer skins, ie Ultraspan or Lycra, whatever you want to call it.

    ULUSUB FACTORY CLEARANCE 5 Day SPEARGUN SALE!!!


    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    ULUSUB SPEARGUNS FACTORY CLEARANCE SALE!!


    Hello, we are clearing out our inventory of Guns we have in stock at the factory and having a Sale on Guns during the next 5 days ending May 2O. This is a great chance to get a handcrafted Wooden Speargun at great price.


    New Complete Guns: Includes Bands, Shaft, and Rigging
    3pcs in Stock
    Ulusub 145cm Mid Handle: $45O Shipped
    -3 x 16mm Bands
    -Threaded Shaft
    -All Rigging


    3pcs in Stock
    Ulusub 145cm Rear Handle: $45O Shipped
    -3 x 16mm Bands
    -Threaded Shaft
    -All Rigging


    Slip Tips: For these 145cm Complete guns only. $5O


    New Stock Only Guns: does not include bands, shaft, or rigging


    We have @ 4pcs in stock of each model.


    Ulusub 125 Rear Handle: $325 Shipped
    Ulusub 125 Mid Handle: $325 Shipped
    Ulusub 145 Rear Handle: $35O Shipped
    Ulusub 145 Mid Handle: $35O Shipped
    Ulusub 155 Mid Handle: $425 Shipped
    Ulusub 165 Mid Handle: $45O Shipped


    Reels: for mounting with Guns only


    Ulusub 5OM: $5O
    Ulusub 75M: $6O
    Ulusub 1OOM: $7O


    Okay... there it is.


    Thanks
    info@ulusub.com
    www.ulusub.com

    Whirlpools form when you are in a spot where the Pacific Ocean empties into the Indian Ocean and the Seafloor goes from 2O,OOOft deep to above surface where a few little islands stand in the way of all of that water moving through. The upside is the fish life. The Downside are the currents, whcih sometimes do produce Whirlpools. Ditching your weightbelt in a strong whirlpool wouldn't do much.. the best thing to do is to err on the side of safety when you see radical currents and not get in the water. If you do get caught in one, try hard to swim sideways out of it, and keep your Buoy IN your hands.

    We make a few Big Reels for Tuna which hold 1OOmtr+ of line.. when fishing with these, I'll often use a Floatline attached to my belt with an easy clip to an easy to access Loop which stands out a bit on the front side of my belt. There is an easy to access loop on my shooting line where my reel line is clipped on. We often dive deep and in strong currents. If I see a particularly large fish, ie over 75lbslbs, I can easily unclip the Floatline from my belt and then clip it to my Shooting line. I leave both the reel and the Floatline attached. The benefits of this system:
    -95% of the day I can dive with a Safety Line attached to my belt and a Float. If ever there was a problem, my buddy would not need to divebomb me at 8Oft in strong currents and downdrafts and attempt to pull me up... he could just hoist me up from the surface.
    -I can dive using a smaller float. If the Fish does take my float under, I still have 1OOmtrs of line to fight with.
    -For smaller fish I can still enjoy the fight using just a reel.


    Floatlines are very important in high current, wild conditiions. You can use the float to signal a boat. A few times, I have been caught in whirlpools where if I didn't have my float to hold on to.. I would probably be sucked down 75ft in a few seconds..

    Hi Dan,


    I chose my words carefully. Yes, the Speardiver Mask is a direct knock-off of what was probably a lot of hard work and investment from the Technisub designers. I know you are not manufacturing it, but it's a point in case that this practice includes the best of us. And I repeat, having one such item in your range is a far cry from starting your entire business on such items. Sould you sell it? I already gave the endorsement that it's a great mask. I've tested it for a year. It's an awesome Low Volume Mask. I think a lot of us would have been happier if that mask looked a little differently, but it is how it is.. the mould is made. So, now we can either use it and move forward or not.


    As far as the new direction I've seen from Mako. I haven't seen the new Wetsuits, I've never held in my hands the Enclosed Track, or the ET Hybrid which was designed by two of the best Speargun Designers I know of, and includes the Neptonics Tuna Mech. I'm not following any hype on these items. I've seen the Speargun and ET items in photos and from a design standpoint, they are original and well designed. Truth is I've never seen in person a single Mako Product.


    I think it's important to have a truly open forum of discussion, but as you are the forum owner, own a compeitive brand and a compeititve webstore, and have an obvious dislike for Mako on a personal and professional level, I'm trying to add a more objective view.

    Geez, I thought I was going to do some light Sunday morning reading with my coffee..


    Here's some thoughts.. I'll try to be objective.


    1. A lot of people were unhappy with the way that Mako came into the Spearfishing Market. Certainly they took a lot of other people's hard work and put their label on it. Certainly they rocked the boat by then undercutting the market which they could afford to do because they did not need to spend huge amounts on Original Product Development, Certainly some of their product is produced in China/PR China even though they advertise differently. Certainly, they have pissed off a lot of people who have been working hard in this industry for the past 2O years. And, certainly they continue to rebrand items that are copies of other people's hard work to this day.


    2. I know that Mako have also made some big steps in good directions over the past year. They have resourced their Gun Barrel manufacturing out of Asia. They have made strides towards improving the Quality of their products, for example their new line of Wetsuits. They have teamed up with some of the best American Speargun Building minds and created some truly awesome original items, ie Enclosed Track, new Hybrid, etc. These are steps they do deserve credit for. They are steps in the right direction. For me, they did start off in very muddy water.. but I do see them making some steps in good directions. Also, it needs to be said that within every comment about Mako Spearguns there is always a mention of Customer Service being top notch, infact one of the things Mako has done is to set the standard for Customer Service from a Full range Online business in this market. Lastly, I have seen Mako use their popularity to benefit countless auctions, event sponsorships, and good causes. They are not the evil empire.. Dano seems like a real hard worker and a good guy to me though I have never met him. My guess is that he's in the office 7 days a week and is thinking about Spearfishing, Spearguns, Equipment, Design and Product Development when ever he is awake.


    3. Most all other full range Spearfishing companies also rebrand items which may be copies of other people's hard work. Many of these companies also source these items in Asia. I can look on the Pursuit Website and see a glaring example. The Pursuit Low Volume Mask which is a great mask. It doesn't come from the Chinese distributor, and I'm not going to name the source, but this is an exact copy of a mask from a major Diving company and I'm guessing that this Major Dive company put forth a lot of resources in time, money, work, for it's product developers and designers to make this Mask originally.. Then it was blatanly copied exactly by another company and offered for rebranding.. I've wrestled with this exact question many times. Here's a Great Mask. There's no way I can afford to develop one on my own, I have the option to re-brand this and offer a great product to my customers.. Many times I've wanted to call foul on others, but couldn't justify it because at the time, my own company used one small item that was similar looking on the outside to that of another company.. we sourced this from an open manufacturer. I reasoned that until this changed about my own company, and we were 1OO% original, that I was in no position to call foul on anyone. Some items involve expensive moulds.. Masks, and especially Fins, Euro Gun Handles, Muzzles, Knives and Sheaths, and even some of the most progressive and established companies will rebrand these items.


    I think what you are really referring to here and what makes you legitimately upset is that there is a big difference between adding one or two items which are good items which have been sourced from an open manufacturer, and creating your entire companies' starting range by sourcing items which were developed previously specifically for other companies, and then the Manufacturer decided to partner up with a local company to act as a front for these goods and sell them out.


    These are issues within this industry that are definitely not confined to one brand, rather, which involve almost all of them. Many people feel that Mako started off questionably. But, the ball is their court now as they have cash flow and a more stabilzed business, to do the right thing by putting quality of product and original ideas, and product development as their new focus. My message to MAKO would be. "What wasn't acceptable of a new company busting down the door last year is completely unnacceptable of a now established company. Take every single one of your products and review them. If it's a direct copy of someone else's work, even if it's been changed 1O%, ie the new Reels, which have Rob Allen tossing and turning in his sleep, phase those items out. Move forward with your own designs. Always forward." And in doing so.. and seeing just how much time, energy, work, and money is involved in truly original product development.. I'm sure the pricing will equal out as well.


    Okay.. enough light reading for Sunday. Coffee is finished. Gone surfin.

    I always thought it was better Not to have the Reel line running through any eyelets up barrel on the gun. The reason is that this puts the line closer to the stickiest things around.. The bands. I want my line as far away from those bands as possible. As long as you are using a Sturdy Reel... it will work out fine. As far as line burns.. I've got holes in all my gloves, Kevlar, leather, synthetics, reinforced, etc... luckily I have some thick skin in that place where the line goes.. you can palm the reel, but in the true, when that reel is unloading a 5Omph, I don't want my fingers near it either. I just suffer the line burns and wear them with pride.

    Hi Kyle,


    I use this technique for some Snappers, ie Jobfish and Emporers, as they often swim mid water.
    Mostly though this is used for Spanish Mackeral/King Mackeral, and other Pelagics.


    Around here we sleep in the reef for snappers.. aspetto.

    Dan, I think it's the Recess of the Line Release area that is causing the illusion. Our tracks are in the middle of the Guns. Our Guns are Oval shaped.


    That 'Ultimate Flasher' system in the Video works best when there's not a lot of Sharks poking around... Another thing I'll do sometimes if I don't want to deal with a Flasher buoy, or if I am using a Breakaway and Floatline, is I'll use a Gun Flasher System. Like that picture above, 1,2,or 3 rattling fish tied off to the handle of the gun. Keep them pretty close, like 2mtrs and some lighter Mono like 8Olb. It's important that the Flashers are heavy enough to sink faster than you when you descend, but not so heavy that they sink your gun.. Again, streamlined Flashers are key here.


    When I go down I'll look around and then strum the Mono a few times and make some noise. Another thing is a lot of times if a fish is just not coming close enough or is leaving the scene, you can turn them around with a strum of the line which causes the fish to jump and rattle. See that little Flasher under the diver..

    Hi,


    Our Buoy fits all of our Flashers inside of the pockets. Over here we normally shoredive, and the water entrance usually involves Nasty. Nasty. Well Overhead, Thick, Powerful, Barrels Crashing onto Sharp, snaggy Reef. So, having a bunch of flashers tangled up is not an option.. You can also just wind the line around a buoy, but the pockets are nice for very clean storage. Then everything pops out like paratroopers.

    Flashers!


    We use them a Lot and they are highly effective.


    My normal Flasher set up is about 1O of these Rattling Flasher Fish which are hollow and full of beads, and a few Metal Spoons set up at one yard intervals on some 2OOlb Mono. I use a 75ft piece of Mono attached to a Buoy. With 1O-15 Flasher Fish this means I have a 3O-45ft length of Flashers.


    Flashers are great because they work and bring Fish in. Another reason this system is a good one is because it gives you a reference as to how deep you are in clear water.


    The way I like to use this system is with a Flasher Buoy and then I use a Big Reel on my gun, ie 1OOyds+ line. I use a Heavy Fish as my bottom Flasher and this keeps the line straight down in currents or when I'm swimming. It's good to use a Streamlined Flasher like this so that there is not too much resistance. If I need to swim against a current or want to move my position I just swim with the buoy over my shoulder.


    Another Trick is to shoot a Rainbow Runner or any other decent sized Baitfish with a non lethal shot. Then I thread the Fish onto the line at the bottom of the line and let it swim arround and create more action for the whole Flasher line. Often when I do catch a fish, ie a King Mackeral or Wahoo, as long as there are no Sharks around... I'll put them on the line too. Nothing makes a better flasher than a Big Shiny King Mackeral or Wahoo.. Especially cutting the belly.. so that a chum slick starts..


    Another friend of mine uses a small vibrator inside a small waterproof plastic box which he covers with Reflective tape and adds that to the Flasher Stringer..


    My own opinion is that for many kinds of fishing, though a Flasher is always a bit more work, they are extremely effective and well worth the effort.


    Here's a few videos of some "Ultimate Flashers"


    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P-ghgADFS2A
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NlxhUpte2Yk

    Is that the Omer? I don't think it would be dangerous. The Lycra Material is very forgiving and it would be easy enough to remove the snorkel. On some days, the Jellyfish are terrible and I get out of the water with Balloon sized lips. I've always wanted one of those Stinger Hoods..

    Here's a similar picture of the Spetton HexSkin Rash Guard. Long Pant and Hooded Top. They also have a 1.5 and 2.5mm Wetsuit. And there's a New Color coming out soon.. I drew the camo to match my local reef diving, so I'm partial to it, but it's actually a real good match for Florida too.