If the stock didn't have a 1/2" roundover you could attach it to the side pointing up. How about milling a pocket and pinning it vertically
Hmm that's a cool idea Dan. I might just do it. I'd need to figure out pins though.
On second thought I like how its gonna look flushed into the gun but still on top there. Gives it a little bit of bling. I also prefer it to be horizontal I think. Gonna cut it now.
Anyone have any opinions on the positioning of the line guide? Any reason to put it closer/further from the muzzle etc? My plan is mount it flush to the side of the gun a half inch back from the muzzle (measured to the tip of the guides shark fin)
Im trying to get my mind around who would buy something like that. So far my best guess is inexperienced scuba divers looking to kill lion fish on vacation who have absolutely no idea what to use. Im probably giving the customers too much credit though.
Wow !! it's ET too.
Cheers, Don
Ive heard one broccoli band is too much for a 1/16" shaft so they use ET's to prevent shaft whip. Its extra important to have an accurate shot when freeshafting.
Went over to speardiver hq and picked up the last few pieces for the gun from Dan. 11 feet of small ID band Speardiver rubber. Lots of wishbone material. And A sweet little ready made line wrap anchor.
Dan also recommended I do a little bit larger roundover on the gun. I concurred and did it this morning going from 3/8 to 1/2. It didnt seem like much but it makes a huge positive difference in the profile and feel of the gun.
Dan has been a huge help on this entire build. Not only in the heaps of advice and physical help he's provided. But also in selling such a nice complete set of gun parts I know I can expect to be awesome and depend on. Minus the butt and blank. I got everything from Dan. Thanks <img src= " height="23" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x">
Also thanks to all the forum guys who have spent a lot of brain power figuring out questions I've posed. Its thanks to you guys a semi-clueless builder like me can make all the right decisions.
Thanks for the help everyone. 
Got a little tube of black 5200 on the way. Thanks Xander.
Im familiar with curing thing cause ive used the stuff on my dads boat before. Great idea with the vac sealer.
you can use good ole duct tape to hold it on while you test ballast but it wont make a "huge" difference. Out of curiosity how were you planning on attaching it?
Yeah gonna duct tape everything on take it to ocean and tape on lead till it sinks.
Thinking about two screws with countersinks and washers woodguy also mentions a good adhesive that sticks to the SBR. Epoxy Is apparently worthless on it.
Been a little busy so haven't been able to work on the gun for a few but got back to it yesterday. I figure the rubber is gonna make a big difference to ballasting so id better put the butt and bands on. I went to work crafting a butt on the bench grinder. It was pretty hard but I managed a pretty uniform square piece with a slight taper and and a nice bevel. I have more pieces so I may try again now that I have my technique down. Id like it to have a bit less of a taper. But it still looks good I think.
Yeah planning to do a little in the back and a slot up front. Probably in the back since the handle can't hide much.
Thanks for the bump Dude George This forum always has the answer.
Im planning basically the same thing Wood Guy says. My gun is pretty massive so I am not very worried about kick at this point. I plan to ballast the gun to slightly slightly sink in saltwater shaft in. Ill be making my handles detachable so I will try to hide lead there as well.
Congrats Dan. Good luck to you and my faux foe. I think Ive seen 44:00 in an indian book before <img src= " class="smiley" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x" height="23" width="23" loading="eager" data-tooltip="biggrin" aria-label="biggrin">
I shoot a Speardiver carbon 120 and can't recommend it enough. At the same time I think the non carbon Speardiver pipegun is awesome for the price. Both are awesome guns and speardiver/spearfishing.store is local in Fort Lauderdale.
I had a Mako gun. it broke the first day. but the broken piece was cosmetic. so i used it for a while until I held a Speardiver 120. I immediately got one and I gave the mako to my dad. It could kill fish. but I find their handles (basically the heart of a pipegun) to be worthless thoughtless crap. Both in form and function. Everything else works but is meh.
I find Rob Allan's to be a bit too un ergonomic for my taste. I also like a butt for chest loading. But they otherwise seem like very solid guns.
I forgot to mention the insane surge that got worse as today went. It had us and the fish moving like 20 feet back and forth under water. I missed a bunch of schoolmasters while getting thrown around on top of a reef full of em. I'd almost line up the shot and then suddenly were flying.
Hhahaha ginger beard the pirate is my older bro. My dad took the picture.
Got out today off Hollywood with a Speardiver forums crew. Me, Hardline, LunkerBuster , and Shallow Runner on my dads boat with my dad captaining and my brother on beer drinking duty.
Viz waves and wind weren't great but doable. A very silty top to bottom viz on the second reef. And big North swell topside.
Still I think a great day was had by all. Everyone got fish. We ended up with 3 hogs, half a dozen schoolmaster/mangrove snappers, and a couple of triggers & big margates.
hey Reef , i just had a quick question . with your router table were you able to cut the band slot all the way through or did you have to flip the wood over and cut it from both sides? my bur was too short so i had to flip mine and ended up with a small step inside the band slot.:)
I actually used a 9/16 bit in the drill press and drilled from both sides. Then a file and chisel to clean it out. Too scared of tear out to go all the way through though. And rather not to a plunge that deep on the router.
Thanks. I took a lot of ceramics classes in high school lol. Check out ray villafane I saw him do it a few years back and took a stab at it.
Thanks for the tips don. I guess for a bluewater gun I want it to slightly float shaft in.
Did a round over and shaped the muzzle. Was planning a larger roundover for the top but I like the symmetry.
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Yeah Im getting excited. Even the bandholes and handle recess made me really start to feel like it was a gun. Cant wait to do the roundovers when I get home from work. Then I just need need to figure out ballasting. Coat it. Rig it. And shoot it.
Anyone know if I should I rig and load the gun when I balance it to get proper front/back distribution of weight? Is it okay to ballast it before epoxy?
Thanks Dan. I don't mean tight. I mean it fits with good tolerances around the pin. So doesn't rely on the pocket tolerances to keep straight. I came to most of those conclusions myself and with talking with you minus it being able to stick out some. I was worried it might catch.
This mech is definitely Georgous and robust. Even the stuff inside is polished. It also engages the spear amazingly smoothly.
Pinned the mech at lunch. Somehow I did it right. I think little speargun fairies grabbed my arms an guided me. I also followed wood guys method.
