Posts by Ihab

    Friction between internal parts of a trigger mechanism is a key factor effecting trigger pull which could lead to shot inaccuracy at higher band loads starting from 3 or more bands.
    Design, material type and high polishing the internal parts at point of contact are some key factors utilized to reduce friction between Sear & Trigger.


    The use of a “roller” action at point of contact has already been used on some Euro mechs…mainly Reverse mechs…but with a limited leverage area that could only be good for smaller guns due to the thickness of the axis around which the “roller” rotates and the width/thickness of the roller itself & the support area of the pin.


    Since I already use relatively thick material (8mm) for Sear & Trigger, it gave me the advantage to design a “roller” 4mm wide that sits on a 4mm high polished pin…leaving 2mm on each end of the Sear for proper support……The challenge was to also produce a high polish at center of the roller to avoid friction between roller & pin during the rolling action when trigger is pulled.


    Result
    The roller provided a very crisp & predictable trigger pull at higher loads…noticeably smoother than regular mech designs…and can be appreciated more at higher loads.


    I took this concept 1 step further and applied it to the regular trigger mechs we all use and the results are very nice indeed.


    I do not claim to have invented the roller concept in trigger mechs as it has been done on some Reverse Euro brands…..But I have yet to see this roller concept applied to regular mechs.


    Price is $85.00 for either Euro or US version, which accept shafts from 6.5mm to 8mm (US 9/32” to 5/16”). The Niletec roller mechs are available in the US from www.FreediveStore.com.




    When I first started spearfishing...my diving ability was very limited...not more than 5 meters (16') while my buddies were diving 4-5 times this depth..catching all the good fish.
    You could say; out of desperation...I was pushing the limit of my RA 100cm back then and firing at fish 12-15 feet....by time I got good at it (I also had the chance to target practice for many hours in a pool).
    This was my starting point when I starting building guns...it had to be accurate at long shots (relative to its length) and I started out with 100cm (100 cm, 40" is the length of the track)


    With bigger guns, like the Tuna Tec 125...20 feet is comfortable in my case......my diving ability now improved but I still go for long shots....I think its a habit by now and gives better opportunity to catch fish...at least in our waters.

    How much weight should I add to my speargun? I figured I'll ask about balance in a separate thread.


    My understanding of ballasting as far as weight is; to keep adding weight until the gun starts to sink (shaft out) then take off just enough weight to make it float again.


    This is called Maximum Ballasting which will make the gun very heavy...i.e, difficult to maneuver...but .as everything in a speargun is a tradeoff....it will also reduce recoil substantially.


    It comes down to personal preference......so my 2 cents of advise...if the gun sinks with the shaft in....you don't need to add anything...and most guns will sink muzzle first with the shaft in.
    If needed...just add as much weight to the muzzle area to reduce recoil/muzzle flip...but not too much so it feels comfortable enough holding the gun under water as if target shooting for a few seconds without feeling a downward drag...I think this is what you will need to figure out more than anything else.


    If you still are not comfortable enough with the resulting recoil...then its a matter of stock design/mass.


    Riffe guns tend to have low profile stocks...but with noticeable recoil...to really counter recoil in that case you need a lot of ballasting weight...which defies the low profile stock in the 1st place....personally...I would have added more mass to counter recoil (instead of weight) and design the stock so that maneuvering will be acceptable....most of all...accurate gun.


    Bigger guns will float with the shaft in...then it's necessary to ballast the gun with the shaft in (using Woody Guy method is good) just so it sinks with the shaft in...floats with the shaft out.


    Ihab

    If you really want to split hairs about gun accuracy....band elevation does become a vital issue.
    Accuracy is relative...I have the chance to test guns in pool at least once a week, 12 months/yr for 2-3 hrs for the past 3 years or so.
    IMO designing a speargun should start at the muzzle..that is if you are too concerned about accuracy.
    By accuracy I mean that you hit bullseye at the maximum effective range of the gun....so for a 100cm gun....I go for 4 meters and extend beyond to determine deviation & power of spear...any gun will be accurate at 1 to 2 meters....so no use for this.
    During testing at the outer limits of gun...the muzzle...i.e., band alinement does come into play...and very much so.
    The more the bands are in line with the shafts plane...the more the accuracy since muzzle flip becomes more of a horizontal direction during recoil...which remains in line with the direction of the pointed spear to target.


    Take an enclosed track gun for example...this too has a long debate about ET being more accurate than OT........IMO.......ET are more accurate not for the enclosed track itself (unless you are overpowering the gun) but simply because for this type of track you find the spear embedded lower in stock than usual and the bands are higher...i.e.....the bands become more closer to the plane of the shaft.


    When I first started designing spearguns...I couldn't dive more than 5 meters...everyone around me was doing 10 to 20 meters....so my emphasis was on taking long shots....long shots need accuracy...thus my concentration on muzzle design became a priority...and from there everything else follows....with the right stock, balance & ballast.....etc....you'll have an accurate shooting gun.


    Ihab

    I'm not getting any younger myself (53) and like to keep in shape for my next spearfishing trip.


    Problem is most of my spearfishing friends are between 20-40 yrs old....very few above this so I have to keep up with the pace.


    My main business is manufacturing sports nutrition so I know a bit about sports & health.....but I'm no doctor.


    If there is one single exercise you must choose....That would be Walking...and nothing beats walking in terms of overall health benefits....as it comes natural to the human race.
    I'm talking about brisk walking, 40 minutes or so/day...4-5 times/week.
    If you can't walk outside...get a treadmill.
    Its easy on the joints and the list of health benefits are too long to mention and will strengthen your legs which are the most parts used in spearfishing.


    Ihab

    Very nice vid & gun...I respect the 24m dive (can't do more than 15m).
    its a shame due to political idiots down here...I can't send guns to Israel unless I want our secret service on my tail 24/7...honestly...and I have declined many time orders from Israel and was a bit hard to explain to customer why.


    Ihab

    It's a Giant Trevally....weighed 26 kg...around 57 lbs...puts up a nice fight by swimming sideways once hit and goes for the reefs to try to tare itself from the spear by wrapping the monoline round the reef and pushing in the opposite direction.
    You have to keep it from reaching the reefs by pulling it upwards then let it swim when clear from reef till exhausted.
    This size could stay fighting from 5 to 20 min depending on your skills, reefs and shot placement...and it will drag you down a couple of times till its over.
    Swims with sharks....very curious fish...sometimes responds to noises by banging your knife on the gun at a steady pace....it resembles a fish in distress.


    The biggest I caught was 30 kg (66 lbs)...surprisingly 100 meters (328 ft) from shore about 4 years ago.


    Ihab

    I've just finished testing a new butt design for the new Nile-Tec Reef 125......open track.






    It works great...no slipping and no pressure even when skin loading.


    Another issue was the open track...I tried this same model with an Enclosed Track....NO difference whatsoever and I would like to hear opinions on this matter since some are firm believers of closed tracks.....I think Closed Tracks are for longer guns...but how long or maybe more than 2 bands...let's hear some opinions on this.


    The gun is as low profile as it gets in terms of stock height.



    Its about 36mm (1.4") in height so tracking is good...any less and recoil starts to take effect.


    The ballasting weights towards the muzzle are hidden under the line anchor




    The handle also accommodates hidden weights between the plates.



    According to my pool testing...its super accurate with plenty of power till 6.5 meters (21') and I'm having it tested with video by a 3rd party for different opinions.
    Will post results as they come.



    The same model is available also in 115 cm & 105 cm


    The only change is I'm getting rid of the stainless steel threaded inserts.


    Ihab

    Back to the Double wrap issue.


    It seems I'm the only opinion that double wrapping is useful for guns 100cm and over.
    When I first started spearfishing...I was strictly using the 100cm Rob Allen x 2 16mm bands....and I couldn't dive more than 5-6 meters (16'-19') while my buddies would disappear in the blue......So I was compensating my diving with very long shots....averaging min 3-4 meters...measured from the muzzle....and I did catch good size fish at the end of the spear.
    I doubt without a double wrap I could have done it.


    Dan, your gun looks absolutely beautiful with much attention to detail....I'm sure this is a high end tube gun


    Ihab

    Nice Vid,
    In the Red Sea there are quite a few large Groupers...large meaning 20 to 50 kg (40 to 100lb approx) and maybe larger...point is...anything bigger than 20lb tastes awful...like eating the sole of your gym shoes...so we never target these babies down here...its just a waist.


    On another subject, it snowed in parts of Egypt...yes snowed... and mixing desert with snow is quite a scene.


    Ihab

    Hi Henrik,
    Usually this type of slick design is common among the Mediterranean coast....I'm impressed you guys up North are as good..... if not better.


    Let me know how it handles/accuracy...and the setup you will be using (bands/spear..etc)....if it needs ballasting....I have a few ideas without messing up this beautiful work of art.


    Ihab

    Very nice gun...truly art mixed with function.


    In your original picture, the mech is different than the pictures explaining the handle mount...what type of mech is it...it looks familiar :)


    Ihab