Plenty of Cudas where we hunt.... got one less than a week ago.
Ihab
Posts by Ihab
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very cool look, how did you apply it to yield such a smooth shiny look? Was there any wet sanding and buffing involved?
Wet sanding between each layer...final layer too then buffing.
Ihab
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Absolutely fantastic piece of art.
I must add that every part of the gun is very well thought of….very few guns can impress me this way.
Good job & good luck.Ihab
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Beautiful. I hope it's cost effective. How much weight does it add to the gun?
Not much in terms of cost...its the effort and mess created that would cost.
Dan, you always have those unique unexpected questions I have to answer to
I have no clue how much weight it added...but this gives me something to do in the mornining.
I've heard that it should add some bouyancy to the gun.Ihab
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It took a huge effort but very much worth it.
With 10% Graphite + 90 Epoxy…… turned a Nile-Tec Reef wood gun to a marble like feeling gun…grayish black in color and very slick.Using graphite is not new….but coating the whole gun is to me….main advantage is protection against UV and dents.
Scratches don't seem to occur as easily as on Epoxy and if you do manage to make a scratch…you have to stick your nose to the stock to see it….the scratch/lines are also black as opposed to the white color of epoxy when scratched.If the coating holds well during the next 6 months or so (I do abuse my guns, dive every weekend , 4 seasons a year) I might think of keeping this as a trade mark for the Nile-Tec guns.
News:
In the making…redesign of the "Lazer", 120cm, 3 x 16mm, ET, new handle, new muzzle, 95% CNC.
I'm always concerned about tracking and accuracy more than anything else…so it should be as accurate as the Reef (watch test here Niletec 100 prototype - YouTube)Ihab
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They look great Ihab! Do you plan to make them with side and bottom line release as well?
A Big Yes.....in a weeks time I'll post their pictures.Ihab
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I use to use a single 19mm 32" band, and the gun was underpowered significantly. This is why is use two 16mm bands between 26 and 28 inches. I might just get another 28.5 band and take off the 26.
Diesel, there is a relationship between band, shaft & gun mass…to balance the outcome for accuracy…just play around with band stretch till you get the least recoil with the shortest bands.
This is how I would do it.
- Calculate band length according to the regular 3:1 stretch ratio and stick to 16mm bands….at this -stage, it doesn't matter what brand of rubber you're using.
- IMPORTANT….for wishbone, go for the Italian style wishbone where you have a knot at the end of each rubber and a separate cord attaching both ends of the bands (if you need help making this knot let me know).
- Tie the cords with the end knots so that the total length of each wishbone, from rubber end to rubber end is no more than 12cm (assuming you're using 2 Bands)
- Test your gun in very stable conditions…I use a plastic water bottle in a pool.
- If you miss after several trials or gun is shooting a bit low, replace the cords and this time increase cord length so that the distance between each rubber end is 14cm…i.e., go in increments of 2cm.
- Depending on your gun mass and shaft size, at one stage your gun will shoot smoothly.The Italian knot makes it very easy to change the cords on location…actually, I would prepare several different cord lengths before testing.
Good Luck
Ihab
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The housing would have to be wider, at least on top. Making the housing wider IMO negates the advantage of being able to attach the mono at the back of the shaft. The idea of a gun with line attached to the back of the shaft is that it's a compact simple gun. To accommodate a robust wider mech housing the gun will require some well thought out design changes if it's going to remain light and compact. But if you can come up with a mech design that will keep the housing the same size, I think it will be very appealing.
As you mentioned, the mech width will increase by 3mm…..translates to 1.5mm on each side of the track.
IMO, that's not much, most mechs of this type are of the same width….maybe 0.5mm less in width….but most are made for 2 to 3 bands max……we're talking about 5 x 16mm bands in my case.Bending the mech to narrow its width below the top is not very practical to the end user.
Weight wise, the wider Reverse mech will actually weigh less than the regular Reverse mech by 8gm !!!!….the design forces removal part of the mech side walls to accommodate the mono. .
I'll post some pictures in a couple of days.
Ihab
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That'd be cool to offer that style of mech for home builders. It'd be nice if it was lighter since most would be used for light wooden euros & the combination of a steel handle frame & steel mech quickly weight the backend down.
Don't know of any american notch shafts with holes through back.
For steel handles, I wouldn't use anything less than 120cm Euro style speargun....but the mechs on 100 cm spearguns with wooden handle + Teak wood are just perfect.
Ihab
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What do you guys think of a trigger mech, made for wood spearguns that can accept the monoline at the butt of the shaft….made for 2 to 5 bands.
There are a few out there but most seem rather weak for my taste.Question#2
Are there any US notch shafts that have the mono attached at the butt end of the shaft.Ihab
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i'm progressing along on building my first speargun. The forum has been very helpful. My question is what is the proper technique (s) for ballast and balancing. Are they the same thing? How important are they?
I read in the forum about testing the ballast in the water. when is this done? before the resin or after? if before doesnt the water cause problems? Thanks for your suggestion
scottDoes your gun float with the shaft in?
We can take it on from there.Ihab
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Correction, The RA Sear is not plastic...stainless steel but not sure which grade.
Also, the Euro style trigger mech tends to push the shaft up against the internal roof of the mech casing as opposed to pulling on the sear notch in case of the US mech.
Ihab -
Glad you're back Ihab, and thanks for the silencer explanation. Is the rubber piece replaceable?
Thanks Tin Man...just a quick note...I've just read your question about the quality & polishing issue of the Nile-Tec mech....let's just say what you see is what you get.
The mechs included in the 5 Ramsis guns that went out to be test, Fuzz has one, where not the latest design so I think I should send you the long awaited sample...about 4 days from today...how about that.Oh, before I forget, no the rubbers are not replacebale & I like your idea better:D....maybe I will use it in the future...if you do not mind.
Ihab
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Did Ihab make this mech with the intentions of selling it in the US? How much does it retail for? Who sells it in the US? Ihab is a registered user here BTW.
Dan,
Yes I intend to sell in the US and have made 2 versions of this mech.....US & Euro shaft mech...but both cannot accomodate shafts that are rigged with the mono at the butt end of the shaft....but I'm working on it.I'm also working on a project to convert any speargun (wood) so that the bands align parallel to the shaft without much modifications and very low $$$.
I've noticed that the more the band are inline with the shaft, the more the accuracy of the gun since all the recoil is directed in the same direction where you originally are pointing....i.e.....No Muzzle Flip...and very very little if any.I like long shots since I'm not a deep diver (50' max) so an accurate gun with a double wrap is important for me....(try the Ramsis II for accuracy ;))
Cheers,
Ihab -
Dan - I noticed that Ihab was registered here, and I have encouraged him through PM to post his new products here, but so far it seems that he has chosen not to.
His handles and handle frames are available at Scubasworld, so presumably that is where the triggers will eventually be available. They are listed at $55 on his Nile-tec website.
Hi All,
Every time I read something about my products I get a bit nervous since things started off with a blast as soon as I began introducing stuff in the US in particular.
First, I owe Tin Man some info about my trigger mech which I was too lazy to do so here it is……
For the internal Silencer….I bought internal tire tubing, cut it in small pieces to fit inside the trigger mech and made 2 holes opposite each other about 17.5 mm apart and used rivets to hold the tubing inside the mech.
When the gun is fired, the end of the shear hits against the tubing instead of the internal walls of the mech making it very silent…you just hear a very low "bob" sound when the gun is fired…actually one of the testers of my new gun was surprised how quite the gun was when fired……I still own Tin Man info on the top line release which I will post shortly……..Let me knowif there is anything else needed and I'll try to post here as much as possible.Cheers,
Ihab -
Hello everyone,
This is Ihab from Egypt....I was invited here from a local membe, hope to make new friends and gain experience from this forum.
I dive the Red Sea & Mediterranean but mostly the Red Sea.
As a hobby, I own www.niledivers.com, home of the Ramsis II speargun.Cheers,
Ihab
