Posts by John Hanson

    Omer did something on this issue on the shafts that came out with the Cayman series.
    A small cone was placed on the shaft just above the flopper that flared out just enough to cover the leading edge. I'll see if I can dig up a photo anywhere.

    The rubber grip on the mako predator comes off but you might have to cut it or maybe try to soften it up with hot water? Do you think it's possible to remove it and fill the space with the shapelock or it would be to thin (the new shapelock grip)? Just wondering.....


    OK, I don't know why that didn't register in my brain when Hau mentioned it:crazy:


    That's a great idea! Thanks guys.

    very nice looking Mako, what size is it? was it relatively easy to take off the loading pad, looks much better that way.


    It's a 130. I wanted a 140, but the Predator is only available up to a 130. I have had the "Rabi" Apex in the past, (same as the iconic) and I could not stand that phucked up handle!


    At the time I got this gun, the iconics also had plastic internals:confused1: I don't get it. It's "supposed "to be a better gun, handling more power with a thicker barrel, but the components are made of plastic instead of SS.:rolleyes1: The Iconics now come standard with SS internals.


    Yes, the loading pad was very easy to take off. It's just held in place by a pin. Use a punch to remove the pin and pull the pad off, That's it.

    I've been eyeballin that handle for a while! I would love to try it out sometime. I would like the Predator handle a lot more if it was smaller. It's just way too friggen big! My favorite pipegun handle is the old green RA handle.

    Hau,


    the handle is through bolted. It came that way from Mako.


    I would love to be able to use the shape lock handle, or even better find some way to mount a Steve Alexander handle, as it is my favorite. The issue would be finding a way to incorporate a trigger mech into the shapelock frame.


    As I said before, I am not really a pipe gun guy, so I won't put much effort into trying to build a better mouse trap.


    Wait until you guys see the rear handle wood gun I will be building soon!

    John Hanson-----IMO band elevators will not be needed ONCE the Tin Man Enclosed Track CF barrels become available :rolleyes1:
    Something else I have recently learned after starting using Tin Mans new muzzle/spike is that the target sight picture is very much IMPROVED when the bands ARE NOT elevated. Again just my opinion based on more than 40hours+ of actual use.


    Hau, you're right. It's just fun to think aloud sometimes:toast:


    A few years back when I was in "pipe gun phase":rolleyes1: I had hammerhead muzzles on my guns. I never needed to elevate the bands and yes, the sight picture was vastly improved, as it is on this gun now.


    To make matters worse on the stock mako, the loading pad is also set up above the rail, This also obscures the view down the barrel. I have removed it and the sight picture is now wide open.


    Now if I could just get the predator handle scaled down a bit...:rolleyes1:


    Here's a few more pics of the gun:

    I don't see any issues with it. I think that the muzzle extends 1-3/8" into the barrel, in case you intended to put the bolt somewhere other than through the existing holes.


    Here's a thought, to keep everything especially clean. The Delrin gets a really good grip on press fit pieces if you drill the hole about 1/64" undersized. If you drill a 15/64" hole all the way through the barrel and muzzle, and then drill out just the barrel to 1/4", you could hammer a 1/4" stainless rod all the way through and it should really stay put. That way, you wouldn't need any nuts or other fasteners on the outside to keep the band elevator in place.


    I like it!


    The only problem I can foresee, would be the weight. It might be a tad too heavy on the front end with the shark spike.

    The screws were provided by Jeff, but the set-up is the same for the mako muzzle.



    I just put on my thinking cap after Chuck's response...


    My big idea would be to run a bolt all the way through the muzzle and tube, that would act as a band elevator. I think this would also be added security against the muzzle breaking off at the screws and pulling out of the barrel, if a big enough fish were shot and the gun was rigged in-line, as I currently have it set-up.


    What do you think Jeff?


    I am heading out on some errands. I will stop by the hardware store and see what I can find.

    I got the gun back yesterday evening. As always, Jeff's work is just incredible!


    This muzzle is the same one he had made for the RA retrofit. The RA version didn't quite line up with the Mako integrated rail. The Mako rail is a bit higher and the ID of the mako tube is slightly smaller than the RA tube.


    Thanks again Jeff! I think I am going to be very happy with this modified Mako gun. Though, I don't think the "mahi" will share my enthusiasm:D

    The squid can be eaten. We use to catch them frequently in Southern California. Most people don't like them. They say they are bitter; which is true, if the skin is left on. The skin must be removed. This is easily done with a Scotch- Brite pad. Cut the meat into strips and deep fry or pan fry. I have also made ceviche with them, which was very good. The meat should also be pounded before cooking to soften it up a bit.

    Bummer the weather won't cooperate for a test. I think you're going to like the way it turned out. I incorporated Hau's earlier suggestion, and made the line wrap pin just a hair longer, and at a lower angle to help hold the line more securely.


    Very nice!:thumbsup2:


    I will certainly provide some pics when I get the gun put back together.

    I have a 130 predator. It's decent gun especially for the price. All internals are stainless steel which is a big improvement over the pastics parts that so many railguns seem to have. I am not really a pipe gun guy, but I needed a gun quickly and didn't want to spend a bunch of money, after losing one on my custom wood guns.


    As for the handles, I don't really care for either of them, but the Predator handle is much more comfortable in my opinion. I also don't care for either of the muzzles that are available. The closed muzzle blocks the end of the shaft from sight, making it difficult to reference the tip of the shaft when lining up a shot. This bad for trying to make a fast shot. I am almost forced to sight down the barrel and line the muzzle up the sight that is integrated into the loading pad.


    Jeff (tinman) was kind enough to make a muzzle that will fit the Mako barrel for me. I have also removed the loading pad from the handle. The barrel and muzzle are on their way back to me from Jeff. I am hoping to put this gun to use in the next few weeks. Looks like the forecast for this weekend will have me looking for alternative activities...:angry5:


    The 2 band set-up is sweet with the 7.5mm shaft.

    Here's the picture of the cut DiveR along side the new Spierre carbon.


    I have also included a shot of them side by side for comparison of the angle.


    I am very eager to go try the new carbons, as i feel that they are just what I have been looking for. I have a pair of Mat Mas FG that I love, but they are a bit hard on the ankles during surface work as the angle is very low. They wreck my legs after swimming against a stiff current, but I love them for up and down work. The DiveR just don't seem to have enough ass(soft model) to haul up bigger fish. These Spierres seem like they should fit right in between.

    I have mixed feelings on them. I got the softs. I really liked them at first, They were great for surface work and descents were effortless. From a pure freediving perspective, they were awesome. However, the first time I shot a decent fish with them I was cursing the day I ever got them. Like Dan had mentioned, they were just too long and took way to much time and effort to make them respond. A small AJ kicked my ass because I just couldn't kick fast enough. I ended up cutting them, and I like them alot better now. I cut the tips off at the end of the rails (took off the round part of the blade) they are very similar to what these Spierres look like, now. They still perform well, and the response time is much shorter now.