Posts by Akira dkt

Quote from mosaad

I want to know how to fix your wood handle when 75% of the trigger body is located where you glue your customized handle ,after you open your track and trigger pocket usually you install your regular trigger and then rotate and drill a pocket for the handle ,glue it and finish ,but if you try the same for the reverse you will have both side open ,I was planning to buy some and try but if someone can share his experience .

Pics would help, but.... rout your pocket (probably through the stock) (bottom and top of stock will be open)

fit trigger mech in pocket in line with the track. (drill pin holes all that jazz)

make your wood handle with a tounge that will fit snug into the routed trigger pocket (1/2 in width??? appx)

fit the handle so youre comfortable with trigger pull and hand position.

cut channel for the handle toungue to fit into (under stock in line with trigger mech pocket)

trim any material that interferes with trigger mech in pocket.

glue the handle toungue into the pocket you cut for it, also glue square edges to bottom of stock.

shape as you like.

should be sturdy.

If its an all wood handle, make sure the material you use (especially in the tongue section) is strong hard dense wood.

Hope this helps,

If you need a visual aid, check out benthos spearguns youtube channel, as well as a gun builder named Cristian Cassone they have some really nice build videos.

goodluck! Dive (build) safe!

Josh

I personally dont like any unnecessary overhang, just enough to clear the flopper/ slip tip adapter, if open track about 4" from flopper tip to muzzle, if enclosed track 1" from flopper tip or slip tip adaptor to muzzle. (just my opinion though)

Whered you get that nice aluminum square stock? Ive been looking for a longer straight edge for laminating.

Great videos! awesome shooting

Is it enclosed? or do those ribs just support the lateral movement of the shaft? Very nice btw.

Ah, Throttle cable makes more sense. <img src= " class="smiley" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x" height="23" width="23" loading="eager" data-tooltip="biggrin" aria-label="biggrin">.

I usually just buy stainless steel wire from my local fishing store used for making swivel clips and such.

Dan, I think Marco's referring to the cable that controls outboard steering.

Mosaad, If the track is an open deep track, why not just rout it into the wood? Also, if chipping is occurring you may need to add some milled fibers to your resin track. Also, make sure you cut the track slowly maybe only 1/16" with each pass.
Looking forward to the rest of the build.

just make sure there is even pressure on the entire length of the blank.
I clamp quite tight. If the laminates are planed and straightened correctly, tighten til snug, but not so much that a lot of effort is needed but you dont want to see gaps between the laminates. Very little resin is actually needed to create a strong bond so if epoxy is gushing out of your blank, you're probably wasting a lot.

epoxy is preferred by many gun builders because of the strength of its bond, this is due to the ability for the resin to penetrate every nook and cranny creating a solid mechanical bond. I believe it became popular when laminating teak became popular, other adhesives just wouldnt hold up when gluing the oily wood, epoxy was the best solution.

From day...5 AQA Mantis 5 and Naida

both low volume, and comfortable yet durable skirts, never had a problem with either...except when the snorkel is hooked to my tagline and i throw them in the water .....or store them in a bag with a spiny lobster..... or run them over with my truck......Ive gone through a few of these masks. <img src= " class="smiley" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x" height="23" width="23" loading="eager" data-tooltip="biggrin" aria-label="biggrin"> still the only masks I can wear for 9 hour dives.

No Problem man, thanks for the opportunity, Its gonna be sick. Do start posting vids again!! they're always epic.

Quote from Don Paul

Glad the Tiger just wanted to shake ya down,

Cheers, Don

Yeah, I have a feeling this Tiger in particular has become conditioned to eating divers catches, big bully!

Quote from Dan

By take down you mean it comes apart for easier transport? Spear is still long?

yeah the gun in the pic breaks down into appx 27" stock and 24" barrel (around there). I built it with the intention of using it in AZ as well as other Islands in HI.

Sadly yes spear is still long, but im looking into the riffe travel spears $$$$$$:@ (I dont have the means to fabricate my own takedown shafts right now)

All you guys are an inspiration, Thank you all for the knowledge and experiences you've acquired over the years.

...............also now i feel like a baby. <img src= " class="smiley" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x" height="23" width="23" loading="eager" data-tooltip="biggrin" aria-label="biggrin"> <img src= " class="smiley" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x" height="23" width="23" loading="eager" data-tooltip="biggrin" aria-label="biggrin">

7/3/2016

A few pics from last couple weeks of local shore diving.

Got to land a nice Kahala with the 80cm omer HF2.
The first gun i ever bought was an HF2 100cm,,,,,and i lost it getting pounded by swell my second dive with it.

Since they dont make them anymore, and this one was on sale I had to get it for nostalgia sake..
Guns this size are great for training, stalking and breath hold, I value these above pole spears because they are still guns, (no change in aiming). Landing a nice fish with a small, single band single wrap gun is super rewarding.

I also got to finally test out my takedown hybrid on a dive with my girlfriends uncle last week friday. I initially built this gun to take to Arizona (when visiting my Mom) to shoot carp and striper in the lakes (Saguaro, Pleasant). I found that it shoots even better than my carbon rollers, (more mass in the stock).

Scored a nice Mu at around 80ft and my PR Roi 7.5lbs at around 90ft. along with some more roi for my ciguatoxin study.

I prefer slight downward pressure on the shaft, keeping it in the track upon launch. so id say band centers in line with shaft center.

looks like a hunting rifle....and a lithium battery powered impact driver. <img src= " class="smiley" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x" height="23" width="23" loading="eager" data-tooltip="biggrin" aria-label="biggrin">

from the title I had something totally different in mind.

Update on the build

3 band ABS muzzle roughed out

Handle is holding together through loading pressure and band pressure.

pool testing tomorrow hopefully

shaft is a 9/32 17/4 heat treated (hammerhead) shaft with innerlock slip tip, ive used this on a rail gun with disappointing results (shaft too thin, slip tip throws the shot off too much)

Hopefully with the etr barrel shaft whip will not affect shaft flight as much.

Thanks Dan,

I had this stewing in my head for a whilel. Wont know until i get to use it for a couple months to see if it can handle the pressure of being loaded, shot and banged around in the saltwater. Epoxy bonds well to ABS, as well as other composite handles, (ive used it to shape ergo grips for other guns before).
I used the putty as a filler, mainly so i was able to pour the paste (resin and fiberglass). I figure if there is any loss of bond between the epoxy and ABS the pins will hold the mech in place. (maybe i should bolt it in. <img src= " class="smiley" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x" height="23" width="23" loading="eager" data-tooltip="biggrin" aria-label="biggrin"> )

I also thought about wrapping it in carbon or fiberglass, Think that would improve its durability?

This is definitely a test run if anything i can kill a few fish, then hang it up for sentimental value.

Youre right, the etr barrel is very heavy, I hope the gun floats when im done with it, (why i considered making a hybrid).

Now I got a little ahead of myself and tried a coat of red enamel to make the handle look pretty

Stay tuned to see the finished product. If this works out I think I may have just found an alternative to meandros ;);) lol! (looks just as crappy imo) <img src= " class="smiley" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x" height="23" width="23" loading="eager" data-tooltip="biggrin" aria-label="biggrin">

Next I cut the trigger hole and the mech fit perfectly

cutting the pin holes was a challenge but I got it done (may need more epoxy putty) <img src= " class="smiley" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x" height="23" width="23" loading="eager" data-tooltip="biggrin" aria-label="biggrin">

Every diver should know or atleast heard of the cressi comanche speargun, used by world champions....blahblah.blah. A very simple yet effective euro pipe gun.

about 5 years ago i received an old broken cressi comance speargun from a dive buddy for free. It was a 100cm pipe which i cut down to 82cm....or so. I cut off the screw in band holes, and shaped a very simple but effective single band muzzle. Over the years I have used this very gun, and have landed some nice fish with it. (uku, mu, omilu, moanakali, kumu, uhu, etc....)
I really liked the feel of the gun, light, maneuverable, with very little recoil, even when powered with a tight 20mm band.

I personally feel that my comfort with this gun was at least partially attributed to its handle, albeit not the most ergonomic, or cool looking, is probably the most comfortable handle ive ever used. (very good for instinctive shooting).

Fast forward to this year, I ordered a MAKO etr barrel, in attempts to make a bluewater hybrid.........after design after design and brainstorming how I should put this gun together, I realized that it would be a whole lot more economical to just make an enclosed track, all wood speargun, or even a hybrid carbon speargun for my blue water needs.

So I decide to make an etr railgun, just to see how this thing feels in the water,,,,,,but..... I come to find that MAKO does not sell a handle for their etr barrel (separately) and a RABITECH apex handle online costs almost 200 bucks:@

So I figured today would be the day I put the comache handle to the test. The only problem is the mech, rocking sear, with a plastic trigger.... solid as it is for single or double band on a shorter gun, but an etr is gonna need some beef......

First I took out the cassette and line release mechanism.
Filled most voids and pin holes with epoxy putty.

Then with some tape around the handle spigot to shim (Mako barrels dont fit anyithing ID or rail height sooooo irritating)
Fit the handle to the barrel, measured the height the mech should be.
then filled in the bottom of the cassette pocket with epoxy paste.
After this I used a 1 x 1/2 inch block of abs and cut it to the size of the mech
Wrapped it in cellophane, and put it in place, shimming it with nails.

Next I poured, epoxy paste into the voids of the cassete hole creating a pocket for the trigger mech.

After the paste hardened I pulled the block out effortlessly and peeled away as much wrap as i could.

(It rained all day in Hilo and no work today so i went a little nuts)