Posts by Akira dkt

    this is something i have wanted to put together for some time due to the number of pms and emails i get asking for info on different woods .i will fill in info and pics as i have time.
    Phil


    let me know what woods you want included


    give me a couple minute to save the first couple post
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    Ive been wondering about black walnut. From my experience it seems to be pretty durable as far as rot goes. I wonder about it's tolerance to saltwater as well as it's dimensional stability when introduced to a moist environment.

    Wow Makoa, really great to hear you are loving the gun. The modular system was just the icing on top of this build. I'm excited to see what kinds of fish you get to harvest with all three setups.

    First of all I would like to thank Makoa for his genuine hospitality and his willingness to show me some of his freshwater stomping grounds. This guy on both dive days, drove almost an hour to pick me up from my family's house, and about an hour half to the dive spot, he let me use some of his dive gear and even got me to shoot the first fish of both dive days.


    I had a blast shooting carp, seeing other freshwater game species in their habitats, sharing the stoke of attempting to lift a heavy kui for pics :laughing: , and the awesome conversation shared while driving to and from the lakes about freed dive safety, spear guns, fish, hunting, camping, and future adventures to be had.






    I was pretty bummed that i did not bring my go pro into the water (forgot to bring my charger) although, in 1-3ft viz, it might not have mattered too much. These carp are everywhere, cruising the bottom, and jumping out of the water. They are one of the two spearfishing regulated species in Arizona lakes. Although not the best table fare, spearing these fish is a lot of fun, and I like to think it helps to support the health and presence of native herbivores in the river systems. :thumbsup2:

    Just because a magnet makes sharky uncomfortable, doesn't mean he won't overcome it and fulfil his primary instincts (eat, protect itself)....humans do things that make us uncomfortable every day......like holding our breath underwater.... ;)

    Yes the wishbone will still hit the retainer (elevator) but if the bands are preloaded, 100% lets say the downward force will be much greater than if the band has 0% pretension. Less downward force, less muzzle flip.


    If the wishbone retainer were at a 90 degree angle with the shaft, stopping the wishbone before the change in direction, this would prevent muzzle flip and keep directional forces parallel to the shaft flight.... however developing a wishbone retainer like this while allowing for snag free line release will be a challenging task.

    but using notch spear with roller not giving accurate shot !band will bush notch little up when spear near the retainer and shot will be low ,is that correct?


    If im not mistaken, I think the dilemma with rollers is the low shot. This is I believe caused by pre-loading the band(s). At the muzzle, when bands come to an abrupt stop the momentum of the band puts downward force upon the muzzle. This causes the muzzle to lift slightly resulting in the shaft end being tipped up resulting in a slight downward trajectory.


    rollers that are not pre-loaded dont generally have this problem


    Ive noticed this on my single roller, but strangely not on a double roller. The only conclusion i can come up with is that pipe gun rollers just dont have the mass (stability) to hold a shot, but if you shoot a roller long enough the adjustment is easy.


    A way to remedy this would be to make the muzzle rail (track supporting the shaft) a bit lower than the track on the barrel.


    To answer your question, I dont think it is the notched shaft that causes the muzzle flip.


    Hope this helps,


    Josh

    I wouldnt make the wishbone elevator enclose the shaft unless you are using a notched shaft. Also 1/4 inch pipe (id) im assuming is too small to do that (with shooting line).


    If there is any shaft rotation caused by a number of things (bands not loaded or made exactly the same length or thickness or one weaker than the other, water motion pushing against the shaft, etc.) your shot will be off and you may damage your muzzle if it is constantly being hit by the shark fins.

    Looks like its all Barracuda, maybe a rare coloration variation, albinism, or illness.??


    From my experience with Barracuda, (2species common in HI) teeth are generally serrated with 4-6 longer teet at the tip of the mouth.


    Ive used the 50m hatch reel (red tide etc...) it works fine. It is by no means in the same class as higher end reels like ULUSUB, Aussie Reel, or ERMES/MEANDROS, but it gets the job done. I started using this reel because it is easy to install, and it is light.


    Ive used ulusub and aussies on shorter railguns 100cm> and they tend to make the gun negative.
    The drag is basic, nothing to brag about. Line (especially stiffer dyneema cores and poly core) tends to get wrapped on the shaft between the mount and the spool, not when a fish is running, but after the run when reeling back slack line. But for general purposes it does the job.


    I have also used the composite speardiver reel, I would say the performance is on par, a little bulkier and 90% composite, but it does the job. It makes a great belt reel.:thumbsup2:


    I have an aussie reel (bought into the hype) I like it, no line tangles, good drag. I feel like the money is in the clamp style reel mount though, very innovative. (why arent other brands doing something similar??) With the spool sitting so close to the mount there is a small (very small) chance of friction fusing the plastic on a long fast run. (theres a video floating around the internet of a wahoo causing an aussie to fuse)


    Ulusub reel as far as smooth reliable performance is my pick. rarely have tangles, spool and mount is rock solid. Its just as Dan said a little bulky and heavy. It is made of a teflon composite i believe, this eliminates the possiblity of friction causing damage to spool (no fusing).


    Yet to try a vertical reel, but i dont think these will be appropriate for a sling IMO.

    will any sponge work?


    I generally burn the lenses, then scrub with toothpaste, and just use mask defog for a couple of dives, then saliva generally works after the mask is broken in.


    Ill definitely try this before I dive though.

    Hank, In my case when im in a rut, its because I want the fish too much.... its generally after a long (4-5 weeks for me) absence from diving when I see all of my friends catches and want to shoot something awesome...I psyke myself out so much that easy shots and stupid fish are just not happening for me.


    My best advice for getting out of the rut is as follows:
    1. lower your expectations
    2. use a smaller gun or polespear (this way generally easy fish are more rewarding, and you dont have to pull your shots as often because hey if you miss you dont have to go loading 2 bands and wraps)
    this also helps you to train on stalking method as you need to get closer to your target.
    3. take some "morale" shots, shoot an easy fish or two to get your confidence up early in the dive.
    4. sometimes a dive just doesnt go your way, Ive had dives where after im just like "F diving and F you F'n fish bastards!... but that ideal doesnt last long
    5. I think you just need to enjoy being in the water with some really amazing creatures having some great experinces, and eventually shoot them in the face.....but enjoy them first......and hopefully on the plate later.


    anyway,
    goodluck
    dive safe


    Josh

    epoxy works well, just scuff up the rubber.....that said ive used super glue and contact cement before with success, epoxy will last longest though imo. Beautiful work btw!:thumbsup2:

    I feel freediving courses promote blacking out. Usually in the guise of "getting to know your limits" :rolleyes1:


    Never taken a freediving course before but I plan to when funds and time allow. I know a few instructors and have talked to them about the courses a bunch. It is true freediving courses promote blacking out by pushing limits of what a diver is capable of, but they also teach divers what to do in case of their partner blacking out, and what to do to minimize the risk of blacking out. Knowing your limits it the best way to prevent yourself from crossing them especially if youre diving alone.

    I have read few posts and there is a 3 type of shaft

    • the one i use from RA is quench spring steel
    • second cressi stainless steel but don't know if harden or not its cobber color
    • third the stainless from pathos and teak sea which is white color
    • their is a hardened alloy 17-4 ph stainless also



    anyone can help to distinguish between these ,I want to have a spear won't rusted like RA and also have same hardness and density to not overpowered .


    youre not gonna get anything harder than carbon steel. RA,Freedivers, Aimrite, wong, mako, and torelli all use similar "south african" carbon steel, Cheep, and effective, but it does rust quite easily. Ive found that RA shafts have the best corrosion resistance, most of the others rust completely within a few months.


    anywho, Mori shafts are hard, and really well made, but they are so hard that they tend to chip when sharpening with a grinder


    17-4 are good if diving coral reef, not the best around rocks but not bad. I think neptonics, hammerhead, speardiver, and a bunch of other shaft manufacturers and spearfishing brands carry 17-4 its cheap and readily available.


    cressi and other traditional european pipeguns tend to have very narrow 6-6.5mm shafts of either stainelss spring steel. They arent usually hardened too much, so watch out for rocks and coral, from my experience in Hawaii they tend to be a bit overpriced for what they are (OMER) but thats probably just importing.


    Ive used pathos, and bleutec shafts both I think are only hardened at tip and notch. they work well, but are pricey.


    bottom line, all materials have their positives and negatives, find the ones best suited to the type of diving youre gonna do.


    Goodluck,
    Dive safe
    Josh:thumbsup2:

    IMO, A vest is no substitute for a good partner. Blackouts are not the only danger while spearfishing. Having a partner to spot your dives, backup your shots, poke sharks, pull buoy, and keep you in check, makes for a much more relaxing and fulfilling dive, not to mention safer.

    Wow. I actually had a similar Idea on a pneumatic roller style gun about a year ago. I was trying to think of a way to eliminate exposed roller bands by housing them internally. However this would either cause the gun to be negatively buoyant or very bulky. Then I played around with the idea of "pully guns" or demultiplied rollers, using mini blocks to shorten the band stroke, allowing more stock (buoyancy). then I thought of eliminating bands altogether and just using a metal spring (probably too heavy). finally realized an air spring would be optimal (similar in fashion to this oleo pneumatic gun).... however all of this is in my head and I have no experience with pneumatics or the wearwithall to go ahead making one of these. But seeing a gun like this come to life is really cool!! the future of spearguns is looking interesting.:thumbsup2::thumbsup2: Of course I agree, a simple pipegun will kill all kinds of fish, but creating something new and bringing home dinner with it is always a rewarding experience.