Perhaps your friend was trying to tell you not to add EXTRA hardener, as this will offset the proper ratio of resin to hardener. Epoxy does not get hard by evaporation of solvent, it is a chemical reaction between the two components to form new, stronger bonds. If you vary the resin to hardener ratio it will offset the stoichiometry of the reaction.
Posts by Ryddragyn
-
-
How about getting into the water with those guys?
I have heard that they are quite fierce...They're typically really deep (several hundred to a few thousand feet), where they eat up all the groundfish. I think the scuba divers that have chanced upon them in La Jolla have been over 100 feet. So encountering them is probably not by intention.
That said, I know that a few people have speared them. But given their predilection for agile, unrelenting violence, it's not recommended.
-
I once saw somebody who painted most of their trailer with rhino liner. He said it held well.
-
I just got a copy of this DVD from Norway:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YQxgAc48Q4w
I'll post a review after I watch it. Looks pretty cool.
-
Now you have to eat them raw with lime while floating on your dive board.
-
-
u can wear them under your dive hood without a problem.... despite the obvious points you made i think i can sacrifice thos luxuries for an even better luxury of listening to some soothing music while i hunt. ill let everyone kno how it goes:thumbsup2:
You're talking about replacing necessities with luxuries. :crazy:
-
It would hinder my hunting. It's not a "silent world", despite what Cousteau would tell us. I wouldn't be able to hear environmental sounds like the crackling of fish chewing on vegetation, fish croaking, etc. Worse yet, I wouldn't be able to hear boats. I also wouldn't be conscious of noises I was inadvertently making, and wouldn't be able to correct myself.
Additionally, I wouldn't be able to wear vented diving earplugs, and wearing the earphones under my hood (mandatory in colder water) would be a PITA to deal with.
Anyways, I'm not sure the fish would like my taste in music.
-
-
It's an Ulusub reel.
-
I laminated it to be on the safe safe with a longer, bigger blank that I'm investing a lot of thought and time into.
I made a solid blank for a shorter gun out of the same piece that I bought. It was all pretty cheap at $50 shipped for two guns' worth.
-
[quote='behslayer','http://spearfishing.world/forums/index.php?thread/&postID=53039#post53039']It might be nice to extend that recess to include the Reel. You could also think about including some kind of "Ramp" into the center of the bevel to allow the Line to peel off unobstructed.
Here is a primitive one made from White Sea Bass Otolith bridging a tapered ramp on my old Tiputa gun. The ear bone bridge prevents line from finding it's way under the wood and 6061T6 spool, which would be '' Bad to the Bone'':D
Cheers, Don
Thanks for cool suggestions guys.
Jon/Behslayer- Look at Gikas' page, my muzzle idea is sort of similar to one of his, except a little less intricate.
-
Super nice, is padauk a good wood to work with? Is it easy to drill and carve? Congratulations
So far it's pretty easy to mill and chisel, though it probably dulls tools quickly since it's harder than teak. The sawdust has stained my clothes too.
-
Thanks for the feedback guys.
Here are the latest pics from when I last got some work done on it (a few weeks ago).
-
Inflatable kayaks are not as rigid as regular ones, so the energy transfer when you paddle won't be as efficient - some energy will always go into slight bending of the kayak as it contacts the water. That said, if you have no other option for travel, the AE are the top of the line for inflatable kayaks.
I don't recognize the model name you described, lost in translation from german perhaps? Make sure you get a sit on top/open model.
-
Awesome fish, John! What gun did you use for the long range sniper shot?
-
It's a Republic Lagun, and it isn't mine (unfortunately).
-
So this is my third gun build, and I think I've learned enough from my mistakes that I'm willing to show the build in the progress.
This is a four piece, vertical lam build out of Padauk. The blank is 1.6" X 2" by ~63". The intended result is a high power rear handle gun with an open track and shooting a 5/16" shaft. I'll be using a Neptonics reverse trigger, and I plan on incorporating my muzzle idea from this thread:
http://spearboard.com/showthread.php?t=124135
If you look Tin Man's post #8 in that thread, I've decided to go with the top sketch as far as how the metal or CF tubing will interact with the end of the gun.
I've only gotten one work session in so far, once I finish up grad school finals and get my work schedule finalized for the summer I'll be able to get more done. So far I've routed the open track, the trigger pocket, and a recess to bring the handle inline with the shaft. I am thinking of extending the recess to include the reel.
Album link: http://imageshack.us/g/856/p1030813thumb.jpg/
-
GoPro support was fairly useless, but I think I managed to solve my problem on my own, plus with Dan's earlier advice in this thread. I bought the battery backpack at a local sporting goods store with which I had a coupon, since it came with a battery, and (with the coupon) was less than the cost of getting a replacement battery. With the new battery, the camera started right up.
That said, I used the backpack as a standalone charger off of my PC for the old battery. The little button on it can be used to indicate charge level. The battery was fully charged. After some more experimenting, I found that the old battery still actually works, but only if I hold the power button for over 10 seconds, versus about 3 with the new battery. Strange, but it looks like the gopro is resurrected.
-
Get a Tin man clamp mount, and you should be able to attach it to the aluminum bracket with a standard tripod screw.
