Hi Phil
How do we get our hands on this in Europe?
/Henrik
it has to ship fed ex so shipping out of the country is expensive ,but if a couple of you guys are close together and can do a group order and split the shipping its more affordable, its almost the same to ship 4-5 kits as to ship one.
phil
post any epoxy coating or general epoxy questions in this thread
phil
larch ,european
Larix decidua
general description : the resinous heartwood is pale read brown to brick reed in color
s.g. .59
mechanical properties : medium in all categories
working properties: works well with most hand and machine tools , can cause severe blunting of cutting edges , glues well
durability : moderately durable
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ipe
Tabebuia serratifolia
general description : the heartwood is olive-brown with lighter or darker streaks
s.g. 1.08
mechanical properties: this hard heavy dense wood is very strong in all categories
working properties : there is a severe blunting effect on tools . the wood is very difficult to work
glues with care
durability : highly durable
small movement in service
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cocobolo
Daldergia retusa
general description : the heartwood color varies from rich red to an attractive variegated appearance of yellow, orange ,and red streaks with lighter or darker zones
s.g. 1.10
mechanical properties: this hard heavy dense wood is very strong in all categories
working properties : there is a moderate blunting effect on tools . works well with most hand and machine tools
glues with difficulty
durability : very durable
small movement in service
mahogany , african
Khaya ivorensis
K. anthotheca
K. nyasica
general description : heartwood is light to deep reddish -brown
s.g. .54 to .59
mechanical properties : low stiffness , resistance to shock loads is very low ,crushing strength is medium
working properties: moderate blunting on tools . glues well
durability : moderately durable
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Mahogany , American
Swietenia macrophylla
general description : heartwood is light to deep reddish -brown to deep rich red
s.g. .54 to .64
mechanical properties : very low stiffness , resistance to shock loads is low ,crushing strength is medium
working properties: moderate blunting on tools . glues well
durability : durable
wenge
Millettia laurentii
dark brown with very close ,fine ,almost black veins
s.g. .88
this heavy density wood has a high bending strength and high resistance to shock loads , with medium crushing strength and low stiffness
small movement in service
working properties: moderate blunting on tools . glues with care
durability : durable
zebra wood
Microberlinia brazzavillessis
general description : golden yellow with streaks of dark brown giving the quartered surfaces a zebra striped appearance
s.g. .74
mechanical properties : this wood is hard , heavy, and stable
working properties : there is a moderate blunting effect on tools . it is difficult to get a good finish from machines do to the alternating nature of the grain
gluing is satisfactory
durability : non durable
small movement in service
tiger wood / Goncavo alves
Astroninum fraxinifolium
the timber is reddish - brown , richly mottled and with dark brown streaks and spots similar to rosewood
s.g. .95
mechanical properties, this hard heavy dense wood is strong in all categories
working properties , there is a moderate to severe blunting effect on tools
glues well
durability , highly durable
small movement in service
jatoba
Hymenaea courbaril
general description : the heart wood is slamon red to orange marked with dark brown streaks
s.g. .91
mechanical properties : very strong hard and tough
working properties : moderately difficult to work there is a moderate blunting effect on tools
glues with care
durability : moderately durable
small movement in service
purpleheart
Peltogyne pubescens
s.g .86
high strength in bending , stiffness , and crushing categories . medium resistance to shock loads
working properties , there is a severe blunting effect on tools
burns with dull tools
small movement in service
very durable
Teak
Tectona grandis
the true teak from burma is a uniform golden brown color without markings ,but most other teak is a rich brown with darker chocolate brown markings . indian teak is wavy grained and mottled
s.g .65
mechanical properties this hard , medium density wood has medium bending strength ,high crushing strength combined with low stiffness and resistance to shock loads it is fissile and brittle with great dimensional stability
working properties , there is a severe blunting effect on tools .gluing is good on freshly sanded surfaces
duribility , very durable
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Iroko
Chlorophora excelsa
s.g. .64
mechanical properties. this medium density wood has medium bending strength ,medium crushing strength with very low stiffness and resistance to shock loads
working properties , there is a moderate to severe blunting effect on tools .glues satisfactorily
duribility , heartwood is very durable
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Sapele
Entandrophragma cylindricm
has a medium reddish-brown color, characterized by a well -defined ribbon striped figure on quartered surfaces
mechanical properties : high crushing and medium bending strength and resistance to shock loads
working properties : works well , glues well
durability: moderately durable
Paduk , Burma
Pterocarpus macrocarpus
s.g .85
a heavy hard strong timber .
mechanical properties : compared to andaman paduk,this timber is 40% stronger in bending and resistance to shock loads ,30% stronger in compression along the grain
small movement in service
working properties : there is a moderate blunting effect on tools .glues well
duribility : the heartwood is very durable
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Paduk andaman (vermilion in the US)
Petrocarpus dalbergiodes
s.g. .77
small movement in service
this is something i have wanted to put together for some time due to the number of pms and emails i get asking for info on different woods .i will fill in info and pics as i have time.
Phil
let me know what woods you want included
give me a couple minute to save the first couple post
__________________
this is the resin i use for coating guns that i have been selling to other builders for awhile now its $50 + shipping ($11 in the Continental us) for a kit that has a total volume of just under 1 quart this should be enuff to do two good size guns if you limit waste. (i also have some larger containers if you are doing a few guns , a couple colors of pigment ,and graduated mixing cups )
this price reflects resin , containers , box's , and the paypal charge.
if phil send me a email at philherranen@gmail.com i can send u a paypal request
please include your address and amount you want in your order
I'm not doing this to make money. I'm giving home builders access to pro only resin that's not available otherwise. , I added about $7 to cover my time and material & gas packaging, labeling, dropping off at Fedex, etc.
ok heres some of the steps/tips i do to coat /lam a gun i willl add more as i have time (sorry' but im not going to do a start to finish with pics of how i do it ,i have to keep some secrets )
epoxy info:
2/1 ratio
7 hr hard time @ 78 , 7 days full cure
working time 20 min at 78
safety:
always wear gloves and wear a respirator or work outside when working with epoxy resin, and when sanding resin that is not fully cured.
general :
never very ratio for epoxy
do not thin epoxy
always fully mix epoxy before adding any fillers or pigments.
mixing:
this resin has a mixing tint to take full advantage i use clear mixing cups .when you first start mixing it will look milky after about 1 min. of mixing ( mix slowly and make sure to scrape the sides and bottom to limit bubbles and to get a complete mix.
only add pigments/ fillers after mixing
gun prep:
1 sand all surfaces to 80 grit with the grain to promote a strong mechanical bond.
2 quick ounce over with a green scotch brite pad
3 blow dust off the gun
4 from this point on do not touch gun with bare hands ( oils from your hands will give the finish "fish eyes"
application:
1 hang the gun and bring the room and gun up to temp (around 78) (do not apply resin as the temp is rising or you will get bubbles)
using a disposable brush or high quality sponge brush apply a thin coat of resin. check on the gun and stop drips every 20 min until hard
2 add 2 or 3 more thin coats : call it good if happy with finish or
3 sand to 220 to remove any lumps
4 do 2 more thin coats or until happy
5 do NOT start assembling the gun for at least 4-6 days to give the resin time to cure (it will be very ez to scratch the first couple days
phil
i dont want to know .i have been doing this since i was 16 . just in gas to go dive and airline tickets in sure im well over 100k
Display MoreHey Guys,
I'm writing an article for our local magazine about gun building and would like to get as many photos as I can showing different designs and steps in the building process.
I aim to write an article that covers the basics of wood, tooling, and design. The goal is so new builders can get a good product right from the start, avoiding common pitfalls. Most of the readers will probably be unfamiliar with the wealth of information available here on the forum.
If you're interested in contributing, that would be awesome. Please send your best photos (need high res) along with your name and a short description to kjflyfish@gmail.com.
Your help is greatly appreciated!
Cheers,
Kolt
what kind of stuff do you want?
phil
Display MoreI normally use scotch brite for polishing stainless, i use a course pad and work up to a superfine pad, normally comes out pretty good but takes ages, i reckon sandpaper would work just as well and probably be quicker.
Hey Phil, do you know if neptonics have managed to find a way of getting your epoxy into Australia yet? I reckon they would sell stacks if they did.
How long do you plan on shooting with this gun Rich, i'm working on one the same size at the moment, just poured an epoxy track for it this morning so will post some picks when it gets a bit further along. I was only planning on shooting calamari with mine as i am getting sick of taking my long euro out when i'm only going out for squid (have too much fish in the freezer at the moment.:)
Jono
i dont know if he has yet ,but im sure he is working on it
phil
emery cloth works heaps better for polishing ss than sandpaper.
Some of that bathroom polish for sinks andcopper taps and a scourer work really well aswell.
I prefer 16" of over hang+, dont know how you can hit anything with that
it depends on how you aim, if you use big american mids (and wood rear handles) you just sight down the top because you have enuff power for the shaft to just go straight to the target so you dont need the overhang to aim with . on traditional euros you are sighting with the tip of the shaft and lobing the shaft at the target , longer the shaft the higher you are actually aiming. i prefer 7"to 8" on mids and 10"to 12" on rears
phil
Phil how do you keep the low viscosity epoxy from running?
thin coats, like anything there is a learning curve after a couple times you can make the resin behave any way you want
phil
Thanks Phil, I may try that. What's the best way to warm it, microwave? Although I haven't seen any of the problems you mentioned with my guns. The penetrating epoxy doesn't cure in a container but it cures pretty fast on the wood.
just put the containers in 90deg water or in a warm car until it warms up ,all the manufacturers say not to warm in the sun . thined cures faster on the wood because the surface can evaporate but once the surface skins over whats down in the pores is locked in , thinners really inhibit curing .
one thing to remember about what i say is :when i recommend how to ,or what to use its coming from someone that is trying to do the best possible job so i never have to see the gun again unless i go diving with the guy ,the last thing i ever want to hear is that some part failed on the other side of the world on a once in a lifetime trip . other products and ways of doing things work well enuff or might be ezer to use ,and are totally fine if the gun is for yourself .its the best end product im after and im always trying new stuff
phil
Phil, can your epoxy be thinned with Xylene to make penetrating epoxy? If so what would be the advantage of making it with yours rather than West?
i wouldn't add it to any resin you get the same proformance by just warming the resin to lower viscosity ,that way you still have a strong cured resin ,if you want to see proof of this just let a 1/2" of each cure in a cup for a week or so the stock epoxy will be strong and fully cured ,the thinned one will be sticky and gummy and even a year or two later if you sand into you will be able to smell the thinner you used that was still trapped inside .you would do better served on your guns by just putting on 2 or 3 very thin warmed resin coats (brushed on ,then wiped off) then a scotch brite job so its matte like you like it than using thinned resin
phil
