Penetrating epoxy is great to use for a finish, only problem is it has no UV protection.
I think Phils post about not using penetrating epoxy was for actually gluing up stocks not finishing them.
Most products say to apply the first coat thinned.
This is what I have used on the guns I have just finished making.
8 coats of everdure (evedure is a penetrating epoxy available in australia, not sure if you can get it in the US). It is very thin and easy to apply with a glossy finish.
4-5 coats of marine varnish. this is high gloss but dulls when sanded, can be buffed back to gloss but takes to long to sand with 600 and then 1200 then 1600
the fina 2l coats is penetrating epoxy.
the penetrating epoxy does yellow but takes along time as all the under layers are protected by the varnish.
When the top layer scratches I sand it back to the varnish and wipe another coat of penetrating epoxy over.
soon enough I will find away to gloss the marine varnish and then I can do away with the top coats.
To stop the epoxy and varnish going off between coats I put it in the freezer
Display More
i dont use penetrating epoxy when putting any other epoxy on as a top coat(s) it make for a very week bond for the normal epoxy. after the vocs evaporate you are left with a week void filled epoxy swiss cheese
penetrating epoxy was designed to stabilize rotted softwoods ther is little or no penetration into most hardwoods
here is a lot of good info on epoxy the text is straight of the west systems site
phil
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/how-to-use/
The object of barrier coating is to build up an epoxy coating that provides an effective moisture barrier and a smooth base for final finishing.
Apply a minimum of two coats of WEST SYSTEM epoxy for an effective moisture barrier. Apply three coats if sanding is to be done. Moisture protection will increase with additional coats, up to six coats or about a 20-mil thickness. Additives or pigments should not be added to the first coat. Mixing thinners with WEST SYSTEM epoxy is not recommended.
Disposable, thin urethane foam rollers, such as WEST SYSTEM 800 Roller Covers, allow you greater control over film thickness, are less likely to cause the epoxy to exotherm and leave less stipple than thicker roller covers. Cut the covers into narrower widths to reach difficult areas or for long narrow surfaces like stringers.
Complete all fairing and cloth application before beginning the final coating. Allow the temperature of porous surfaces to stabilize before coating. Otherwise, as the material warms up, air within the porous material may expand and pass from the material (out-gassing) through the coating and leave bubbles in the cured coating.
Prepare the surface for bonding.
Mix only as much resin/hardener as you can apply during the open time of the mixture. Pour the mixture into a roller pan as soon as it is mixed thoroughly.
Load the roller with a moderate amount of the epoxy mixture. Roll the excess out on the ramp part of the roller pan to get a uniform coating on the roller.
Roll lightly and randomly over an area approximately 2 ft x 2 ft to transfer the epoxy evenly over the area (Figure 30).
As the roller dries out, increase pressure enough to spread the epoxy into a thin even film. Increase the coverage area if necessary to spread the film more thinly and evenly. The thinner the film, the easier it is to keep it even and avoid runs or sags