Thanks Don , Wanna Carpool ?? Noah and I will be at the last 1 for sure ,, were saving the Heavy ammo for the last one
when will the last one be ?since its in sb it is a lot closer for me.
phil
Posts by phil herranen
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i can take some pics when i get home on sunday .its very ez you just unwind 3 strands about 4" cross them in the middle of your new loop and re wind
phil -
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No worries Don.
I did something unthinkable a year or so ago and picked up a One gun, made by Sporasub. 105 with all the bells and whistles and it's the go-to tool for a quickie off the beach or on the reef for cabrilla.
Then there's the Hammerhead for up here, the Vermillion tool. Hell for that matter I guess the 1969 Voit Custom, the Ling tool could be a Euro. Maybe I should switch coasts, start wearing thongs...:yeahright:
Hey for that matter and this goes out to the masses, who makes a THREADED 7 mm euro shaft?? Props in advance.
im geting a shipmentof 30 or 40 shafts in a couple weeks. what size do you need ? if i dont have that size in my order i will add it an i can drop it off to you on my way up north to dive and maybe you can grab a bandito from sven for me so we can bouth save on shipping
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Phill,
I am not familiar with the wetsuit designation such as 4/3. To what do these values refer?like baja said its suit thickness . most surf suits are thicker in the chest and legs and thinner in the arms and sometimes legs (4/3/3) for flexibility and paddling . first # is chest ,second #is arms ,third #is legs if different than chest
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I am heading to SF in 2 weeks; so I should bring the thicker wetsuit hu? Only ever been in the waters out there around LA/Malibu and that was in July and August when I could escape from Ft Erwin for the weekend. I was considering doing some surfing, how are the waves up there this time of year? Also, while there I am Hoping to hit up wine country with the lady friend (if anyone has a suggestion I am all ears).
I was unaware that there was a Ft Bragg in Cali, that confused me until I looked it up, :confused1:. I spent 4 years at Bragg in NC.
7 mil suit for diving and a 4/3 for surf the swell the last couple days has been 20' to 30' at 17sec but its dropping now ,average surf in winter is head to double overhead with exposed spots much larger . right now the water temp north of sf is in the low 50s to mid 40s
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thanks phil. the gun has 4 bands and i don't think it had any. i don't have any really good pics of it with the bands loaded but here's what i do have. the top 2 are of the gun with 4 bands and the bottom is different gun of the exact same size with 3 bands. you tell us if there is any flex and what effect it has.
i was just wondering , all the really big euros i have built have been carbon over wood .i know you have built a few so i was just wanting to know what your experience has been with a normal band slot on a all wood gun. i recently did a 72" euro with very small dimensions and 3 5/8" bands with a band elevator ,with the offset load from the elevator i had to do a lot of reinforcing layers to get the stiffness i wanted .a offset load (elevated bands) has a much higher flexing force than a loaded column (normal band slot)
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nice gun steve . how much flex did the stock have when 3 bands were loaded ? and what do you think is a acceptable amount of flex.?
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how is the stiffness verses a heat treated alu. tube? i build most of mine with a fiberglass core and a couple layers of carbon on top
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Kelp carrot us nice when diving without a float or around others w floatlines. It keeps the terminal end floating and makes your line run over other lines. Still hardly essential but serves a purpose
i just always wondered why so many went to Florida. i use them all the time but im biased , its my invention and i make them for josh.
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Phil,
I have bought several Riffe "Sink Lines" in the past. After a few trips they fill with water and sink. Maybe it is because of the depth I dive, the size of the fish I shoot, or just fact that I use my gear a lot. I now use Rob Allen or Neptonics float lines with no problems. They fray from time to time, but I just hit them with a lighter and they keep working. I know these lines do not work in the kelp, but here in Florida and in open Bluewater they work fine.
thats why i said in another post it depends on where you dive ,i dive mostly in ca , baja , and costa rica we dont have much that will damage them other than sea lions, . im sure if i dove around sharp structure like coral ,lava , barracuda ,or wrecks i might have a much different experience . what i do like using the poly lines for is grouper the line snags on the reef and stops them from going deeper.
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yes it works great on smaller fish in the 20'to 40' range . its cool to see the fish hit the bungee ,run a little, and start coming back to you while its tail is still kicking. i dont think i have had a single fish tear out while using it . i dont know what you would want a carrot for in fla. other than a end of the line stoper ,they are made for diving in kelp .
phil -
No bueno Phil! That's a BIG shark!
it was real fun diving in 15' vis in the same spot the next day . the amazing part is it was at least 5' maybe 6' wide,and we got to see id from 8' away. they are massive.
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i saw a 16'-18' white at santa barbra island a couple years ago it did a couple laps around the boat then left. i have seen a couple while surfing or paddling up here
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that depends on where you dive and if you let fish wrap it around a wreck or coral . i still have the first float line i ever bought ,its a riffe floatline i bought when at least 15 years ago it is still dry inside and is the line that is in my loaner gear box ,i have since switched to neptonics gear but if hadn't i would still be using it . poly starts starts getting beat after a couple months of light use . if you spend $10 on poly every 4 months
you will spend the same as buying a real line every year and a half to 2 years
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What's the point of using 1400lb spectra and 1600lb swivels if your shooting line is 250lb :rolleyes1:
mono gets changed out often ,a float line should last for years and every type of core line ever made will wear and degrade over time so the over kill in strength is really for longevity . i know guys that like to use hollow braid poly in baja and they bring a roll of the stuff down with them and make a new line every time it shows a little wear.
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welcome ,Dick
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just get a 22 rifle and use sub sonic or cb longs the cbs are quieter than most pellet guns
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i used to have this issue a lot when doing glassing for car stereos...it is wicked hot here in MIa and especially in a garage. I would have to use a little less of the activator because it would reach the curing temp way before i got to soak the glass.
this doesnt directly apply, but be sure to consider that it is hotter here than most of the instructions will contemplate and you might have to adjust amounts or time to accomodatenever ,never , and never vary the mix for epoxy it is not a variable ratio and will screw it up and may never fully harden .also never mix the a and b from different brands . you can only vary the hardener amount for polyester resin which is not suited for gun building
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I agree with Phil. The ambient temp. makes a big difference in cure time. A slow curing hardener in a cold garage in a northern winter is a recipe for a bad lam. A cure that is too fast in a high heat, high humidity tropical climate can actually cook off before the pieces are positioned properly, affecting the joint and giving you a bad lam. I've used the twin tube 5 minute schringe thingies for small jobs like gluing a plug in, and they seem to work just fine.
I've also used Titebond III for small stuff like gluing a butt pad on. For something like ballast wings that would be ok, but if the joint is going to carry a lot of load I would mix the 2 part epoxy, even if I had too much (Like the glued on muzzle of the dirty water rollergun). I just have more confidence in the 2 part if I really need a lot of strength in the bond. Since I've only used West Systems for 2 part I can't comment on one brand compared to another. Phil?
i have used quite a few brands and the major difference for what we use it for between them is viscosity ,the final cure hardness and clarity . west it middle of the road , gflex is very resilient ,has a honey thickness ,and yellow , and the one i use is on the harder side ,thin,and very clear. for your average guy with limited experience with fillers i think gflex will produce the strongest glue up ,but the other two will be about the same as g flex with proper filler use .
titebond III is a very good glue and i wouldn't hesitate to use it i have 7 guns in costa rica glued up with it(epoxy coated and they are all still together after 4 years and one is used every day by a local) a wood working mag did a test a couple years ago and it tested as strong or stronger than epoxy
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the same amount of heat btu is produced but over a longer time period so it has time to dissipate without doing damage to the resin .
as for the west system ? it depends on temp ,at the same temp say 75f the slower one will be much stronger but if the temp id 50f you would want to use the fast hardener because the slow would cure so slow that you may get incomplete cure because the components have time to settle out (im not sure if this is really what happening but its what it looks like) or if you use the fast at 90f it might catch on fire
phil
