Posts by phil herranen

    Getting a shaft to fit properly in the track is one of the most aggravating parts of building a gun for me. Nto because it is hard, but because I always want it to be "just right". The problem, of course, is that "just right" only applies under one specific combination of circumstances. Throw in a smaller shaft, or some sand, or another coat of epoxy, or an imperfect shaft, or whatever, and the fit changes. I guess what I have learned is that this is one of those places where a speargun builder has to set aside any precision tendencies and be OK with a little slop. So far as I can tell, shooting my 9/32" shaft works fine in my 5/16" gun. Sure, it rattles around uncomfortably when it is unloaded and sitting on the bench. But load a band or two and it's fine.


    So if it's me, I would cut the track for a 5/16" shaft, and feel perfectly comfortable shooting a 9/32" or anything in between. Just be sure not to cut it too deep, so that the shark tabs (or pins, or whatever) stick up high enough.


    An for what it's worth, Bob White at SFS Carbide can modify my cutter drawings to make you any size you want, if you have something specific in mind.


    i actually think that when it comes to tracks looser(within reason) is better . a perfect fit can cause problems . when it comes to this part of the build think ak47 not m16 . it has to work with grit and sand in it and work every time
    phil

    No clue what the second one is phil.


    Don looks like sheoak (lacewood) but it doesnt quite look like its on the quater??
    Theres quite a few sheoaks so it may be a different on than what I have seen. Looks good all the same.


    Sheaoaks fairly cheap over here too.


    why dont you take some pics of woods that look interesting there are always local woods that look great but are not available due to any number of reasons and are just about unknown to the rest of the world .
    phil



    the second handle is end grain bamboo

    banksia cone?


    Do you get similar cones in America or did you import them. thats a very nice touch Phil.


    Those little pods actually have a natural glue on them and when it gets hot enough they open.
    Thats how come they are so abundant after fires as the fire melts the "glue".


    i had it sent over . our pine comes do the same thing they need a fire to open up. on very hot days you can here them popping and cracking.
    phil

    all the guns in those first pictures are my personal guns and show a bit of evolution because they show some handles i dont use anymore or proto types. i will put more up to date pics soon


    here is a recent project i will include the plans we started with because the pics dont show the size or scale of the gun . this gun is a true custom ,at every step in construction i would send pics to the owner and we would make changes as we went and almost every part on the gun is one of a kind or made just for that gun.this gun was designed for a 5/16 shaft and 3 x 5/8 bands
    phil

    im glad you sanded out that burn mark. if you are anything like me it would have drove you crazy until you did . why not anodize the ti its supper ez and im sure you have everything to do it .
    phil

    a little while back i was invited to start a thread here to showcase my work so here goes .
    a little about me :
    i live in Santa Cruz ca i have dove for around 20+ years mostly in ca and baja ,i surf, fish, dive ,paddle and all the normal waterman stuff . im married and have two daughters . i an a sheet metal worker by trade and have been self employed for the last 8 years
    guns : i build mostly wood high mass guns but i also do a lot of carbon fiber and cf/ wood guns and a lot of very custom one / of type of guns . i will use this thread to post pics of projects i am working on that i think are interesting and i will put up some pics of older projects as i have time.
    phil


    www.herranenspearguns.com all my contact info is there

    Buff it to polish it but not for a speargun, for something else.
    Does it go yellow when left in the sun like surfboards?


    Sounds like a good product, I will see about getting some to sample sent over.
    Do you use it to glue aswell?


    i have sanded to 600 on surfboards (i have shaped and glassed boards for around 20years) but on guns i just put it on and leave it .with a test plug after about 8 months to a year in exposure the sun it my yellow to a lighter shade than west starts out as but i have not noticed any yellowing on my guns . i use it as a glue with fillers on my guns
    phil

    I will see if I can get a sample sent over.
    Your epoxy seems to have a nicer and brighter finish than the west systems.


    How does it buff and whats the consistancy compared to wests 105/207


    i have never tryed to buff it on a gun . do you mean buffing to polish it of to go mat finish? its a little thiner than west . west has some built in fillers because west was designed as a good for everything resin and mine is a slightly tweaked surfboard laminating / hot coating resin
    phil

    Phil, Is that gun finished with your epoxy?
    I have not used but I will try it one day. It would be expensive to get it over here but hopefully neptonics australia carries it soon.


    Rich, thats a nice looking wood. The trigger looks good. With the line release im guessing you use a brake away? Is there any chance that a pull on the float or mono could release the tirgger?


    yes rich's and all of my guns use my epoxy , i just gave josh the first batch of resin for his site but i dont know if he plans to sell it in oz
    i will answer that since its my handle , no there is no way the line will fire the trigger a heavy pull would actually make it harder for the trigger to fire
    phil


    Wow Phil and Rich, those guns look delicious.


    With a wood that's not water resistant how quick do you have to refinish nicks and scratches? How does the repair look? Does the whole stock need to be refinished?


    I wanted to see a gun made from Ipe for a long time. I guess it would have to be hollowed out and foam filled. Hard to do with a thin stock like I prefer?


    tiger wood is not oily like teak and it normally comes kiln dried so it will look like is taking on water when its really just on the surface and end grain ( all woods even teak will soak up water in the end grain ) (if you do a thin sample 1/2" to 1" water will soak threw almost any wood in a couple days) but there is no real penetration and it is very durable in water . with test blanks i have left them in dyed water for several months after which i cross cut them and there was minimal intrusion .


    i have done a couple guns with ipe they were all mixed wood guns large guns. with a epoxy finish it looks kind of green
    phil

    The rest of us figured that one out after his first post..... ;)


    rich and i have a little game where we see how fast we can find his new names ( he won this round with one post) so far its been sultan of smooth, Icarus pacific , abductor , speargearshop , bajabound. and im sure a couple others


    Since this fellow is from your neck of the woods, at least relative to us in S Florida, if something like this happens again, in the best interests of the forum I'd appreciate a heads up for me or Don.


    Thanks,
    Dan


    i gave don a call and left a message but he didnt return the call


    phil