Posts by 75th

    Dan,


    I just found this thread, but you've gotten some decent, well-informed advice so far. I'm a Union Boilermaker, as in (at a minimum) I weld all three major processes (TIG, stick & MIG) on most metals for a living. I'm a tube welder (processes usually requiring TIG and stick together in all positions, unlimited thickness) with many certs. Again, good advice from the guys. If and when you run into trouble/throw your first hood, breaking it, feel free to give me a call if you'd like: ( 8 5 O ) 7 O 2 - - 3 7 O 2. Or anyone else on here, for that matter. We all have questions sometime, even me (and I'm supposed to be the professional), so don't ever feel bad. We're always learning and getting better.


    As a side note, go to weldingtipsandtricks.com It's probably the most informative website I've seen, whether you're a beginner or a pro.


    It's not easy trying to learn on your own, like you are, Dan, but with sufficient practice, time, practice, patience, practice and research (and practice), you can fill those voids without any porosity.


    Like it's been said, stick's the hardest to learn. It sticks like crazy when you're trying to learn and sometimes when you're a pro, too. Practice your starts on thick plates with cheaper 7018 rod. Scratch starts are done by striking the rod tip like a match -keep it moving, long arc it if need be and shorten your arc slowly till you get the hang of it. Clean off the slag on the end of your rod between starts by taking it out of your stinger and running it across a heavy file until you see "the shiny". That'll help. Turn your heat up to help from sticking, but if it's too hot and you don't keep moving, you'll burn through/spatter everywhere/leave undercut and it won't run smooth. Stay away from AC. Run DC and "reverse" polarity (ground: - & stinger: +). (TIG will be opposite in DC for what you need.) The rods mentioned are fine, but practice with anything cheap, first. 7018 is easiest of carbon steel. 309 is easy to find and is good for stainless and carbon to stainless, but practice cheap first. Make sure you aren't going too fast by dragging your rod out of the puddle before feeding it/filling it, otherwise, you'll be sucking the puddle away from that area, leaving undercut. Pause and fill it before moving on. Steady and consistent. Watch the puddle, keeping an eye on where you're going. Too slow, and you'll either burn through or leave overfill/leave a bead too high, thus increasing the risk of "roll-over", thus trapping slag in/under the weld bead. Good welding is from the practice of finding the perfect medium in EVERYTHING, keeping it all consistent, all at once: heat, arc length (and keep it the same length), rod angle, rod speed, manipulation size, comfortable body position, etc. You've got to find the perfect middle ground in all these things (and more things) ALL AT THE SAME TIME ...and with confidence. Stops and starts are tough, too, as there's a lot that can go wrong, messing your best work up. It aint easy. Don't weld angry. Breathe. Talk to yourself. Think about what you did wrong and how to do it different. This is where you need somebody to show you what you did and how to do fix it before it becomes a bad habit. A beer helps, but not 6.


    That said, even though stick should be learned first, TIG is easier, cleaner and safer (in that it can be done in a white business suit without catching the shop on fire or burning your nice, PPG Aquapon epoxy garage floor -yes, less fire blanket required). Just don't clean anything with brake cleaner and light up an arc on it... you'll get phosgene poisoning and die slowly and painfully. A good thing about TIG is thre's no real slag to deal with and what you see while you're welding is exactly what you're gonna get. You can practice TIG with brazing, but remember, brazing isn't welding. It's just adhering metal to the base metal. Welding is heating the base metal BEYOND its melting point to make a homogenous/soild metal for much better fusion/tie-in. If it's not, it's called all kinds of names, but that's for guys that say they're real weldors. For you, it's all called practice, so fire away. No worries. Post some pics, regardless how bad it looks. You'll only get better, so we'll all get a chance to see improvement. Feel free to call anytime. If I don't answer, I'll call right back (unless I'm on a job somewhere out of state, which will be late August, this time of year).


    Sorry for the length, but it's welding... c'mon. A whole book isn't enough, y'know? It's time under the hood. Like driving is seat time. Shooting is trigger time, etc. You just need to know where ALL those happy mediums are to call it a science and an art. Don't work angry... Don't work drunk.


    Ivan

    Welcome Alexander,


    There are two Poles on here that I know of, including myself (Polish and Lithuanian). -Upon discovering burus.ru, I will shave head tomorrow into mo-hawk to celebrate own Russian heritage... is better streamlining, too... yes, much inspirational. There are many Russians here in the US that I really enjoy working alongside. They're a lot of fun and we're glad to have them here. They always have plenty of jars of good, home-made borscht, too! Good people.



    добро пожаловать в SpearDiver, мой друг,
    Ivan

    I realize there's somewhat of a different approach between spearfishermen that rely more on judgement from personal and shared experiences, than "proper training" of the newer, more purist "trained freedivers" (whether they see it as a "sport" or an "adventure", as Patrick felt). I don't know if labels are the answer here, but I know there is a difference in approach. I just don't have the experience to explain it like some of you can. Either way, I plan on taking a FII or PFI course, but Dan's also on to something... I just don't quite know exactly what yet. Is it that in "freediving" your very intention is to push your limits for the sake of pushing your limits? Am I close?

    It feels good to contribute! To get back to the forum topic, though, it's high on my priority list to get to one of these classes, where ever I end up taking it (Miami or elsewhere). I'd be plenty happy with the basic freediver or level 1 course, either FII or PFI. I know it's important, especially now after Patrick Musimu himself was found dead in his own pool by his wife and daughter. Damn it... scary stuff. I'm sure, at the time, he wasn't thinking he was pushing it too far, either. That "never alone" rule sure is no respecter of persons. Yeah, I'm thinking a course is a pretty good idea, not only for the improvements, but especially for the safety knowledge.

    That's good, like a neti pot, but there's there's something that's now much better. As a Boilermaker, it doesn't get any more heavy industrial and I have to rinse out my sinus after just about every shift (regardless if it's a coal-fired power plant, oil refinery, steel mill, chemical plant, etc) and I've bought a lot of things that work satisfactorily, much like the above. However, the very best, hands down, is the "Sinus Rinse". It's at MOST walmarts and IIRC, it's by neilmed and cheaper than the plastic neti pot. It's about $10-$12, comes with 50 sterile salt&baking soda (for pH) packets and a microwavable squeeze bottle. It's pressurized (but squeeze lightly, of course), so it rinses way more than the usual gravity methods. No need to crank your neck into any yoga poses. Right over the sink, bam, up one side and it's out the other before you know it, washing everything out in between. Awesome. You can even suck in (a little) and it'll wash off the back side also. It'll all come out your nose and some out your mouth if you let it, but it's normal. Way better than any others I've tried and it's reusable indefinitely. Just nuke it again and put it away.


    As a side note, for the ears, I use half white distilled vinegar and half 91% isopropyl alcohol in an empty visine bottle. It should be a preventative measure, but it's also worked for me when I've had an ear infection/ache. You'll know you have one if it hurts your ear canal a little to pull on your earlobe. The vinegar kills fungi and lowers the pH to where your ear canal needs it and the alcohol kills bacteria and dries the canal to prevent swimmers ear. It's good to use these drops (about 5 in each ear, usually) before and/or after swimming and after using q-tips in your ears, as they can sometimes be a source of fungi themselves, believe it or not. Best of all it's dang near free.


    Hope this helps, as you all've helped me plenty already.


    Ivan in Tally

    Hi Guys,


    Not to be a forum-whore, but I started on DB... I guess I've been called worse. (I'm holding off on SB, at least.) However, I really like reading all your likes and dislikes about equipment that specifically relates to spearfishing. I really would like to know which snorkels Dan settled on in his search for the perfect snorkel. That snorkel write-up made me join. The footpocket write-up is gold too. I dig it all. Knowing how active yall are (spearfishing-wise) is respectable, not to mention the big names on here.


    I'm a Boilermaker (tube-welder, rigger, etc) that lives in Tallahassee, FL. I do a lot of traveling in my work. I grew up on the west coasts of the US and Australia and have spent a lot of time in the water. I've been working on the freediving thing for a while and spearfishing really gives it purpose, so I'm cluing in slowly. (Hey, I'm Polish.) I'm a former Ranger (not a park ranger, -A Co, 2nd Ranger Bn, 1992) and as a civilian, I've found I need danger like oxygen. (Golf's not for me). I've mainly joined these forums to clue in and learn the safety basics (so I can keep doing it... like using a parachute, so you can jump more). I really appreciate you all.


    I've got to start a job in Illinois 7am Friday morning... so it's off to bed. 800 miles to Days Inn tomorrow. I just wanted to say hi... didn't want to be a snob. So... G'Duy!


    Ivan in Tallahassee, FL
    RLTW! -btw, any Rangers on here?