Some cool info there, cheers.
Posts by Jono
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Very nice work DP.
Whats the weight rating on the transoms on those boats?
Can't wait to see pics of dead fish on it :cool2:
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Went for a quick dive today with my old cressi gara's (mate has my c90's) and it felt as though i had bricks on my feet!
Can't remember the last time my ankles and feet were this sore :@
I think i must have adjusted my entire diving style now to suit the c90's :cool2:
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Jono is he wearing a shark shield?
Thats me! Yeah most of the guys I dive with over here wear them. Too many big whites over here, my wife likes the 'added' insurance.
I figure even if they only work 50% of the time i'm still ahead!
Always fun climbing into the boat without turning them off and zapping everyone holding the grab rails. :laughing::laughing:
Not so fun when you dive straight down and it lands on your head, i'm used to the feeling now so it doesn't really bother me much.
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Still loving my Speardiver C90's with picasso footpockets, have lent them to a mate for a few weeks so he can try them out also.
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I know this thread is old but i managed to top this last week, been looking out for a cheap railgun for my brother in law and found another HF2 camo 1.1 going for $75 (only been used a few times) with an omer reel. Didn't want the reel so i managed to get him down to $50.
But when i bought it he couldn't be bothered taking the reel off so got it for $50 with the reel!
This is the best part...
Sold the reel today for $40!!
So overall got the gun for $10 (no rigging and shaft but already have this gear anyway), these guns are still selling over here in the dive shops for around $450!
Gotta love a bargain :thumbsup2::thumbsup2:
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Good rubber is the key. That small ID stuff is da shit. It stretches and stretches as far as you can pull it. How much power are you missing?:plusone: and I don't feel this contradicts what I said before about liking to feel the "good" recoil. Still I think eventually you'll come back to the 2 x 16mm configuration
I agree 100% with this, people over here (australia) seem obsessed with using 18 or 20mm bands, i can't stand the feel of this bigger rubber, plus its much harder to re-load.
I use twin 16 for 90% of my dives and love this configuration.
Just my 2c anyway
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There are other dive watches out there that are only rated to 100m though, like the Omer MK1? Still a pretty good price for a watch that tells you depth the temp. (i don't have one so can't comment on the quality, have read mixed reviews though).
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K.I.S.S. :@
Love your work :cool2:
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You may have difficulty in finding a router bit for a RA tube, from memory they are an off OD (29.4 or something)
The speardiver barrel on the other hand uses a standard OD and ID which makes it easy to find router cutters and muzzles.
Perhaps establish what tooling you have available before you go out and purchase something that may not work.
Hope that helps
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I remember reading somewhere a while ago that you should aim for 3-4 pounds blank per band (unrigged), that weight was to help manage recoil - can't verify whether that is correct but hope it helps.
Jono
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I've built a couple of Hybrids now and i don't think i would state that they are easier to build then a normal timber gun, they cost more to build and are def. more time consuming.
I love shooting hybrids, they seem to track and move around so much easier than a pipe gun or a full timber gun - however i do understand Dan as they do get some getting used to finding a comfortable way to hold them. I don't really see how they are any different to aim though - to me i just point and shoot all my guns!
Interesting hearing different opinions though :thumbsup2:
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beautifull speargn ,a cuestion how do you conect the barrel inside the stock?with epoxy or screw?is is screw this dont make the water inside the barrel?thanks
The barrel is epoxied into the timber, however i run the barrel all the way to the trigger for strength and next time i'm going to run it to the end of the trigger and fill the last 4" of the barrel then fix the trigger and handle into it - this is overkill but gives me piece of mind.
If you did screw it in, you would have to fill the barrel with a waterproof foam first - a few guys do this on 'take down' hybrids.
Thanks for the positive comments guys, the transition between barrel and timber is normally the part on a hybrid i don't like, i personally don't like the timber stopping square, just doesn't seem to flow nicely.
Cheers
Jono
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Cheers Don
Just under #5 without the shaft, lighter than i was expecting!! (just checked on cheap bathroom scales so may not be super accurate!!)
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And the gun is finished!!
Ballasted it yesterday, just took a little in the back under the handle to sink slightly muzzle down, the gun is ready just in time for next weekend.
Enjoy
If I built a similar gun again I would probably slim it down a bit more but that would in turn require more ballast.
Cheers
Jono
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Awesome - nice work Dan :cool2:
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deepdestroyer
Wood Butcher
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Rockledge, FL
Age: 26
Posts: 1,721 Re: A True Legend of Spearfishing has become a Spearboard Sponsor!--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thats nice....did you threaten to take away all his forum privileges if he didnt? Or did those conditions only apply to Daryl?
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Learning new ways to butcher -
Great work, always good to see people making their own gear :thumbsup2:
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Fantastic work Don Paul, nice to see a perfectionist at work! :cool2:
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That would be foxfish' hybrid?
Beautiful gun this is, love the curved stock.
How do you make the hole for the barrel?I am about to build my first hybrid this winter and I am not really clear about how to make the hole for the barrel...?
Should I rout or drill?
I have a 30 mm barrel - should I make the hole 2 mm oversize to allow for glue or is it better with a 30 mm hole?Got any pics of the foxfish hybrid - would love to see it.
I use a full round router bit to make the hole - the barrel runs right down to the trigger so would be impossible to do with a drill.
Keep the hole exact size also - i used a Speardiver 28.4mm barrel and a 28.4mm router bit.