Posts by Jono

This is from rich's thread on SB ...

The wishbone is loose on both ends and you tie it with a (sort of) overhand knot. If you're using wire wishbones, I guess you're just stuck with tying them in and letting them rot on the gun, or you're going to end up cutting the slot and figuring a way to reinforce the muzzle with a bolt and a spacer

Cut and taper the bands, shove the looped knot into the band and tie as usual. Pull the loop tight:

Cut the dacron wishbone and melt the ends with a lighter. Run the end of the wishbone up through the spectra loop & back behind. Loop the wishbone underneath it's self and pull it tight.

The hitch never slips but it's easy to untie and you can choke down on the wishbone easily if you want to shorten it for a bit more band pull. Takes about 5 seconds to install or remove bands for storage, and the spectra and dacron will long outlast the life of the rubber.

This was an awesome post btw rich just had to re-share it.

Jono

I have a cressi mohawk 140 and it shoots like a laser, in fact i would rate it as good as a RA, check to see if your spear is straight or not, i use a single 16mm band on mine and it is more than enough, 2 bands would def. overpower it. You could try using ihabs method for getting it the way you want it

Quote from Ihab

Diesel, there is a relationship between band, shaft & gun mass…to balance the outcome for accuracy…just play around with band stretch till you get the least recoil with the shortest bands.

This is how I would do it.
- Calculate band length according to the regular 3:1 stretch ratio and stick to 16mm bands….at this -stage, it doesn't matter what brand of rubber you're using.
- IMPORTANT….for wishbone, go for the Italian style wishbone where you have a knot at the end of each rubber and a separate cord attaching both ends of the bands (if you need help making this knot let me know).
- Tie the cords with the end knots so that the total length of each wishbone, from rubber end to rubber end is no more than 12cm (assuming you're using 2 Bands)
- Test your gun in very stable conditions…I use a plastic water bottle in a pool.
- If you miss after several trials or gun is shooting a bit low, replace the cords and this time increase cord length so that the distance between each rubber end is 14cm…i.e., go in increments of 2cm.
- Depending on your gun mass and shaft size, at one stage your gun will shoot smoothly.

The Italian knot makes it very easy to change the cords on location…actually, I would prepare several different cord lengths before testing.

Good Luck

Ihab
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I have one and wear it religiously, i dive in south Australia where all the great whites are. My reasoning is if i do get attacked by a shark i don't want the last thing to go through my head to be 'dam i should of got a shark shield'.

Dan you are right, they do give you a small jolt but its not that bad and unless you swim over the top of your dive buddy i don't see how it could zap them. On that note it makes a great trick if your the last one to get back to the boat and lay it on the stainless handrail that everyone is sitting on - i haven't laughed so much in my life seeing them almost jump out of the boat (the jolt is much much worse out of the water). <img src= " class="smiley" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x" height="23" width="23" loading="eager" data-tooltip="biggrin" aria-label="biggrin">

Will post some pics of it rigged up when i finally get the spear. What do you think, red or black rubber?

Been a while since i last posted but the gun is pretty much finished now. Just needs to be balanced and rigged up but i'm waiting for the shaft as its going to take another month to get it.

Drilled band holes and kill spike

Recessed handle and cut line release slot

Dry knocked up before profiling

Epoxy coat on - came out fantastic

Handle arrived on friday from neptonics - S/S handles - scales are figured Cedar but may change later as its difficult to see the grain through the epoxy.

Now just waiting on the parts to start the Hybrid (just need the barrel, muzzle and spear)

Enjoy

Jono

There was a small brochure that came with the gun from Omer that said on the front, OMER Caymen carbon HF2, although i reckon its a universal brochure that comes with all their guns as it also said airbalette down the side and its def. not that.

Yep the FIL was Stoked, especially when he looked it up on the net and it was for sale on an aussie speargun site for $670.

Jono

Quote from fuzz

The Cayman HF2 is an aluminum gun... they don't make a carbon one.

Your probably right - i was only going of what the omer booklet said that came with it. I thought it felt like aluminium anyway.

LunkerBuster it was a 1.1m gun, it did come with shaft and bands and rigging line but was not rigged - came with all the crimps and everything to do it though. The only thing i added was a muzzle bunjee. Yeah if i didn't buy it for my father in law i think i would of bought it anyway.

Jono

Bought a gun for my father in law today, an Omer Caymen Carbon HF2 brand new for $195, made me think of what is the best deal you've ever got - time to spill the beans.

Cool, obviously they are trying to sell off the stock to some poor clueless Aussie spear fisherman (needless to say i am not a clueless Aussie spear fisherman)

Wonder what they were thinking when they made it? "This is crap... lets sell it anyway"

I didn't realise that anyone made one but apparently i was wrong

http://www.diveimportsaustralia.com.au/Items/twin-speargun?&caSKU=twin-speargun&caTitle=TWIN-speargun

Anyone seen or used on and what are their thoughts?

Imagine the recoil if you shot both shafts simultaneously!! <img src= " class="smiley" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x" height="23" width="23" loading="eager" data-tooltip="biggrin" aria-label="biggrin">

Enjoy:

Jono

Looks great, really like padauk. I did a similar muzzle on one of my guns and it did make a difference when firing, although i raised the handle up into the gun more which is meant to help also. Do you have a slot in your muzzle or do you just tie in.

Just a quick question - when sanding between coats, do you usually wait the 6 days till the epoxy is fully cured or just 1-2 days.

Thanks

hmmm dont know why the pics didn't show up, any ideas? - Never mind, got it.

Yes another 33" build ...

I mentioned in Rich's thread that i would post some pictures of my build i started work on the other week, am waiting on parts from Neptonics Aus, as Josh had to make up the S/S handle frames for me and send them over (actually Josh is here in Aus at the moment which i found out the other day). Anyway what i am aiming for at the end is a - 33" enclosed track rear handle +, i was going to build a true rear handle but as i had a tuna mech sitting there with the trigger cut off i thought why not build a +.

This speargun is mainly going to be used for taking calamari squid as i am sick of taking my 55" euro out as it is overkill and makes tracking the squid difficult.

Glueing up the blank -

The epoxy graphite track poured -

Track flattened out, and trigger mech hole done -

This is how i do my trigger holes, draw a mark on either side of the cutter, drop the cutter and line up with one side of the line on my blank, then raise slowly the router up into the blank taking about 1/4 of an inch at a time until the hole is done. Once the router cutter is raised into the blank i push the blank forwards until i reach the end line on the other side of the cutter line (i think i just made that sound a lot more confusing that it really is) - the pic will explain better -

After that was done i ran the track with a ball cutter and opened up the first 4 inches or so of the track -

Thats all i've done for the moment, just have to work out how i'm going to do the remote trigger as it is only going to be very short, anyway, thats tomorrows problem.

Enjoy

Jono

I normally use scotch brite for polishing stainless, i use a course pad and work up to a superfine pad, normally comes out pretty good but takes ages, i reckon sandpaper would work just as well and probably be quicker.

Hey Phil, do you know if neptonics have managed to find a way of getting your epoxy into Australia yet? I reckon they would sell stacks if they did.

How long do you plan on shooting with this gun Rich, i'm working on one the same size at the moment, just poured an epoxy track for it this morning so will post some picks when it gets a bit further along. I was only planning on shooting calamari with mine as i am getting sick of taking my long euro out when i'm only going out for squid (have too much fish in the freezer at the moment.:)

Jono

How much overhang did you allow, i always thought that the recommended overhang was 10-14 inches or is that different on a smaller gun.

That epoxy finish looks fantastic, and you did an awesome job of polishing the stainless, what do you use to polish it?

Jono

Gun is looking great, i just glued up a couple of blanks and was planning on making one a 33" hole gun. <img src= " height="23" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x">

Couldn't you just pin the handle at the 2 mounting points instead of bolting it? I wish we could get phil's epoxy over here in Australia, so difficult finding decent finishing epoxies. :angry5:

Hi everyone

Long time lurker and fello spearo so i thought i would finally join.

I live in South Australia and spear around headlands and beaches in Adelaide, very much into spearfishing and have been for ages now, also build my own guns so will have to post my most recent on the speargun thread.

Just coming into Summer now in Aus so looking foreword to many a weekend spearing soon.

Jono