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Beautiful work. How does your line release work?

Interesting Dan. Since the Herculiner seems to have good adhesion, I wonder if it is available in different surface finishes? Maybe they have a formulation with the same good adhesion, but with a little smoother surface?

Quote from pargo

One thing I like about the aligning idea is that the buoy may stand up to a degree with current.

Good point. Especially if the line were looped so as to pull down on the end of the PVC pipe towards the weight.

One other thought. And please remember that the reason I'm pre-occupied with current is because it's a controlling factor where I dive.

The way the buoy will deploy now, it appears that it will naturally turn perpendicular to the current, which will result in a lot of drag on the buoy. Is there a way to simply loop the line, after the buoy is deployed, so that the buoy will align itself into the current, for less drag?

Also, how do you retrieve it? Do you do it from in the water, or in the boat? If you do it from in the boat, can you tell me how, because we (me and Wood Guy) have not found what I would call an "elegant" solution. We ususally end up with one guy pulling in the line, and another winding it on the buoy.

This story should be about the Tin Man pinch weights that enabled Craig to take down the tiger.

Regarding guns, at the time, his tuna gun was a Merlo, so that's probably what made the first shot. I understand that he shot it about 6 more times, so I'm sure they used everything they had in the boat.

Nice. Do you think that the 2-lb weight will hold it in a substantial current, or is that not a situation you would use it in?

Reminds me that I have an idea for a marker buoy that I kind of filed away and never got around to building.

Dan - Can you post a picture (or link to a picture) of the planer / jointer that you have? Wood Guy can probably answer many of your questions, but it may help him to know exactly what you are working with.

I have plenty of black. The Shapelock is already white, so we don't need any white dye.

Core - Yes, those look like the tube that I have.

I think you are supposed to be over here shortly. I have black dye, but if you can make a West Marine run for whatever other color(s) that he wants to use , then we can mold the handle while you are here and then and you can take it back with you.

Alvin - What color(s)?

I'm completely ignorant regarding the utility of the different configurations, but I do enjoy seeing all the unique variations that you guys come up with to suit your own tastes and needs. No two alike!

Yep, it's welded solid (from the back of the mounting flange) at both the main handle and the front of the trigger guard.

From a bucket of little aluminum scraps that I keep around. <img src= " height="23" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x">

Ok Alvin, how about this instead of the Neptonics handle? I can wrap some Shapelock around it in your choice of color(s) and it will be ready to go.

Hold off on ordering the Neptonics frame, and let me see what I can do . . .

I don't think that I would recomend wrapping the shapelock all the way around the handle, for several reasons.

1. When you try to use two or more colors of the shapelock, the colors will smear together if you shape it too much.

2. There is no reason to wrap the shapelock all the way around the handle. Because the handle frame is hollow, the two sides can touch in the middle and lock in place. I think this will actually look better in the end than wrapping all the around.

3. The back of the handle is pretty close to the screw holes. If you wrap the shapelock all the way around, then it may interfere with the holes.

So I think that there are two ways we can do this. One, we can apply two pieces of shapelock, one on each side, and flush with the front and back handle edges. Or two, I can cut away most of the handle, and just weld in a narrower piece that can have the shapelock wrapped all the way around, if you don't like the position of the front and back edges of the handle.

Haven't figured that one out yet. The hooks don't need to be especially strong just to hold the coiled up rope, but a running fish is something else. The best that I can think of is if the entire recess in the float were a strong plastic box, with the hooks molded as an integral part. Or maybe start with a foam core and coat the whole thing with a fiberglass shell, so that the hollowed out box is an integral part.

Maybe with your current float. But starting with a blank sheet, the float could be slightly longer, or larger in diameter to compensate for the lost material. Of course, I guess a larger float would then have its own drawbacks.

Am I oversimplifying things? A reel or spool obviously comes with moving parts. Would a recess into a standard shaped float, with a couple of hooks for winding a floatline or other rope, suffice?

I'm out of the right size Delrin right now, but it would be much faster for me to modify the Neptonics handle anyway. We'll just cut off what you don't like and weld on something new.

If you like the front (finger) edge, I can leave that alone and move the rear (palm) edge forward. Or leave the back edge and move the finger edge backwards. Or cut them both off and just have a narrow center bar to wrap the Shapelock around.

Do you have the handle? Maybe try it with some clay or playdough first to see which parts you would want to change.