The ones with the white spots cost extra . . .
Posts by Guest
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Looks like we have a few days of absolutely AMAZING spearfishing ahead of us gentlemen! I cant wait!
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Yes, I think adding graphite filled epoxy to the track is important. I like to cut the track a little oversized and go back with the graphite filled epoxy in several thin coats. Sandpaper around a drill bit works well between coats. After a few coats and sanding in between you end up with a very smooth, much lower friction track.
I'll have to pick your brain a little about whether (and how) to do that on my tube. I just finished the dowel, and it's within 0.005" of round just about anywhere you want to measure. That bullnose bit really did the trick.
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Pargo,
It's for tuna and wahoo. The shaft was definately still going very fast when it got to the end of the cable. For this test shooting I had it rigged with a heavy duty bungie attached to the line anchor. I've learned the hard way not to rely on the cable crimps without something to dampen the impact of the shaft getting to the end of the cable. It's not an issue when shooting for real since I rig it with a breakway system, when it gets to the end of the shooting line the float line just moves forward.Jeff,
Sorry I forgot to answer your question. Yes, I think adding graphite filled epoxy to the track is important. I like to cut the track a little oversized and go back with the graphite filled epoxy in several thin coats. Sandpaper around a drill bit works well between coats. After a few coats and sanding in between you end up with a very smooth, much lower friction track. -
Pargo,
I did test it in the pool. I've been working for a long time to come up with a big gun that handled like a much smaller gun, and I think this one does just that. Swimming with it, aiming it, swinging it, just the feel of it in the water is what I was hoping for.
I shot it 6 times with 5 bands and a mori slip tip at a target 24 feet from me (from my body - I was vertical in the water since the pool is only 30' long and I'd prefer to not poke any more holes in the plaster :innocent1: ). I simply pointed it at the center of the target and pulled the trigger - recoil was a non issue, and I hit within 4 inches of the center of the target every time. The scatter was pretty random, so I figure it had more to do with me than the gun. I'm happy with it.
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Thanks Dan! I was just about to break out the magic marker . . .
Chad - I have to admit the clearcoated carbon has a nice technological look to it, but the all black is positively sinister looking. How much benefit (if any) do you think the graphite fiber would add to the built-in track on my tube? Does it change the hardness, durability, or slipperiness of the epoxy significantly?
By the way, I made the first pass with the bullnose cutter to make my dowel for the tube. It cut like a dream in only one pass. I left the opposite side of the stick square, and have it centered up in the mill to cut the depression for the track next. After that, the hardest cut will be the opposite side of the dowel.
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Pargo,
I added several coats of epoxy with graphite power in order to reduce the friction of the bands on the top of the gun (didn't want the wishbones to get messed up by the rough top of the cut track).
The loss of the carbon fiber look was sad, but this one somehow just has that black-op no nonesense killing machine look to me. Nothing fancy - just functional and deadly.
Or not, maybe it's just kinda flat black.
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Sorry to hijack this thread about Tin Man's flawed products
, but here are a few pictures of a "hybrid" I just finished.It's far from perfect, but I'm not going to point out the flaws to this crowd. :nono:
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Anybody got a photoshop manual? <img src= " height="23" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x">
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By the way, those white spots really throw the whole handle off. You should really re-do it.
Damn. Tough crowd. <img src= " height="23" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x">
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Jeff, the two part foam doesn't look like it has the same properties as the above floats. I think it will absorb water?
True in that the two part foam will be rigid, and not soft as many of the floats are. But it has to pass some rigorous water absorbtion tests to allow its use as "unsinkable" flotation inside boat hulls. Anything can and will absorb water over time, but my gut feel is that the foam 2-part stuff should not absorb any significant amount of water in an application like this.
I've used the 2-lb density in two aluminum boats, but I haven't tried it for a dive float, so that thought is worth exactly what you paid for it. <img src= " height="23" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x">
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For what it's worth, the 2-part mix and pour polyurethane foam in about an 8-lb per cubic foot density is pretty tough stuff, but easy to shape with any wood working tools or hand saws. Just pour it into an appropriately shaped cardboard box, and cut away the cardboard after the foam hardens.
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:agree1:
How do you "Polish/smooth" it?I'm guessing Jeff has OCD??????
Once you get it pretty much to shape, it still has small lines and imprints from your hand. Let it cool completely, and then dunk it for only a minute or so in really hot water. It softens just the outer "skin" and you can easily smooth it without affecting the shape.
OCD? I've got something for sure. Funny how my shop is stacked to the ceiling with stuff that I never manage to put away, and a foot deep with plastic shavings, but that white spot just drives me nuts. <img src= " height="23" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x">
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Well Tin man that looks awesome. gratz , What frame u used for that.? to hold the shapelock
Core, Core, Core . . . You must know me better than that by now! I never buy these things when I can build one half as good for twice as much. <img src= " height="23" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x">
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I think you should start over - that white spot completely ruins it. <img src= " height="23" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x">
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I have a drill bit extension if you don't want to invent the wheel again, not sure how straight it is though.
Hmm. Might want to check that out before I build one.
Core - No big deal. Just let it cool, then heat it up a little to smooth the surface.
Here's a few pics, along with an Alexander and Aimrite handle for comparison. The trigger guard area is the same size, but my grip is a little smaller to better fit my hand, (especially with gloves) and has a little more angle to it. That one litte spot of white where I didnt' get the dye mixed in still bugs me a little . . .
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Ok, I'll come clean. As you are molding the Shapelock, you dip in hot water, mold it a little, and then reheat it if need be or cool it to set it hard. Remember how I said "hot" and not "boiling". Inevitably, there are tiny little pockets of water trapped within or behind the Shapelock. If you set the handle in a pot of water on the stove, and get distracted, say, reading about wetsuits on a forum, the pot of water can boil. As will the little pockets of trapped water. Without anywhere to go, the steam pressure builds and then pops like a little volcano. I came back to find my handle pockmarked with about a dozen little craters.
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Yea, I want to know how you managed to screw up shapelock too.
I have a drill bit extension if you don't want to invent the wheel again, not sure how straight it is though.
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I've got my stock.
Griswold cut me a few sticks of the core material so I can get started shaping to form my carbon fiber tube.
I finished molding my handle last night, and just need to make the slide trigger. I'll post some pics of that later. -
Yea, lined with anything that will allow you to get it on without conditioner.