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Of all the scenarios that I might have imagined where a diver might want a muzzle spike, I don't think that I ever would have considered "moray defense"!

Glad you were prepared.

Just needs a bedazzled handle . . .

Sorry, it made perfect sense to me when I typed it, and while accurate I can see how my description is about as clear as mud.

Take a look at TinMan's hybrid thread - it is similar.

Edit - As usual, Jeff is right on target.

Stop me if I'm wrong Chad, but I think I have a few pics that will help.

It's similar to this.

With a few significant differences. Chad's trigger is not welded to the pushrod. It's a piece of Delrin with the pushrod pressed into the back. A little like the one below, but with a delrin slide trigger instead of a stainless one:

:@ I'm afraid I'll have to see some pics . . .

The push rod recess in the bottom of the gun goes forward of the solid part of the handle frame. The trigger is shaped so that part of is slides within the recess above the handle frame. The push rod is pressed into a hole drilled into the side if the trigger closest to the butt of the gun.

Hau - Have you had a chance to try both the black and the white muzzles? I'm very curious to hear if you noticed any difference, or prefer one over the other.

LunkerBuster - Would you mind restating your observations here?

It is. It's a slide trigger made out of Delrin.

Decided to try something different and wrapped the molded shapelock handle in carbon. By accident I learned that by not using heat shrink or a vacuum bag the carbon comes out textured - works well for a handle grip.

Interesting idea. The main vulnerability that I see, is that the flopper would have to be quite thin. Somewhere between 1/16" and 3/32", I would think, for a 5/16" shaft. If the flopper gets bent even a little, it won't work smoothly in the slot. Definately streamlined though.

That's what I had in mind, but I didn't know of those other floppers. Is there anywhere I can buy them in the U.S.?

I also found this on a site selling Salvi gear. Not sure if it's quite the same design as the video posted a few days ago.

I'm working on a polespear project, and thought it would be nice to streamline the flopper into the shaft as much as possible, since the band load (and penetrating power) of a polespear are obviously less than a speargun.

It's pretty easy to cut down the sides of the shaft slightly, but it's the top of the flopper that really sticks up. Anything I do is a balance of better penetration, but a weakened shaft at the flopper.

Does anyone have any pics of similar applications?

Pretty cool. I like how the line passes through the front hook, so the force of the pull goes back to the spool instead of breaking off the front hook.

How buoyant do you think that the mass produced version needs to be? It would be easy to have them waterjet cut from Starboard (and then just router the edges), but I think Starboard just barely floats.

Yes, the idea with the raised handle is to get it close to the band, shaft height.

Two things make this a little tough without a lathe:

First, you need to reduce the diamter of the shaft from 5/16", 9/32", 7mm, or whatever, down to 1/4" for the threads.

Then, you have to cut threads almost right up to where that diameter stepped down, which is tough with a tap.

But like most things, determination and patience with get you pretty close.

Quote from Dan≈

I don't like tricut, the tip bends too easily and requires constant filing. I find myself hesitating too much when taking shots that could hit the reef bottom.

I love my bowfishing tips for exactly that reason. Considerably harder than a spear shaft, so they resist damage, $2 each and easy to replace if need be. If only they came in a thread that was compatible with standard threaded end spears, things would be easy.

http://spearfishing.world/spea…dened-tips-close-but.html

Quote from greekdiver

. . . They usually have a flopper that sticks out a ton causing drag and poor penetration or huge shark fins or big pin tabs.

Lots of factors to consider, and everything is a compromise, right? Recessing the floppers just takes a little extra machining, but that costs money. Some people are probably willing to pay for it, and some are probably not.

Quote from greekdiver

. . . tabs, and sharkfins should all be flushed beneath the surface of spear to get optimum range and speed. It's a tiny bit more work but it would be done right.

But if you reduce the shaft to less than its original diameter, then you weaken it. And how could this be done for an enclosed track gun?

My bad, but it doesn't change my overall question.

What I'm trying to get at is whether the diameter of the object being pushed through the water has the bigger impact on shaft speed, etc. or if the weight of the object has the bigger impact.

Stated another way, does the diameter of the tip dictate the shaft speed? If so, using a big diameter tip is a huge mistake in most applications. You might as well be shooting a 3/8" shaft if you use a big slip tip.

To be clear, I'm guessing at this. I would love to know some of the results of what the guys who measured shaft speeds came up with.

That is gross flexing of the shaft WITH ONLY ONE BAND. I wonder how much it has to do with the huge tip. In my mind shooting with a 1/2" diameter tip is like shooting with a 1/2" diameter shaft.

My guess is that the force required to overcome the water resistance drastically impacts the flight of smaller shafts when big diameter tips are used.

Here are a couple progress shots of a gun I'm working on for a friend.

I'm happy with this new way (for me) of making muzzles where the stock gets wrapped with multiple layers of carbon fiber to build up a super strong cross section which allows for individual band holes with band change slots. I also like the look of carbon all the way to the front.