Cutting RA CF 130 down to 120

I wanted to share my experience and suggestions to anyone interested in cutting a RA CF barrel gun down to a shorter gun. This description may get long as I'll try to be very clear.
I bought a RA CF 130 because that was the closest size that my LDS had to a 120 [which is my favorite gun length].
1. First remove the muzzle locking screw on the underside of the muzzle and insert a round steel rod or heavy screwdriver through a band hole and pull and twist till the muzzle comes off the barrel.
2. Insert the new shorter shaft into the gun and lock it into the mech.
3. Next hold the muzzle against the barrel at the new desired length you want to cut the barrel and mark the barrel with a razor knife or scalpel at the muzzle / barrel junction location. Alternately you can just measure and mark 10cm back from the old end of the barrel so that you are cutting 130 down to a 120. Of course you can use the same procedure to cut the barrel down to any desired new shorter length. If you are cutting less than 10cm off the barrel remember that the barrel plug is aprox 1 1/8in long. If you are cutting 10cm off the barrel then the plug will be within the cut off piece. Ill talk about the barrel plug later.
4. Now take a piece of regular computer paper and wrap it longways around the barrel tightly and evenly and tape it so that it does not unwrap. Next slide the paper wrap to the scribed cut mark at the desired cut location on the barrel. The even paper wrap edge ensures that the barrel cut is straight and matches the muzzle shoulder perfectly. Tape the paper wrap to the barrel at the paper edge closest to the handle so the paper wrap does not move.
5. Now remeasure your desired cut location [edge of the paper wrap] to ensure that this is the correct cut location. [Measure twice, cut once]. Now use your razor knife to scribe where the new barrel end will be, using the paper wrap to ensure that the cut location is perfectly straight. Using a razor knife for this is better than using a marker / pen / pencil because the knife cuts the CF outside surface so that the cut is not frayed as it will be if not scribed. [If you are using this procedure on an aluminum barrel you can just use any type of marker as the aluminum will not fray at the saw cut like the carbon fiber will].
6. Now sure a 32 tooth hacksaw blade and carefully start cutting the barrel with the blade just touching the scribe cut with the blade on the muzzle side of the scribe cut. This will ensure that the cut is straight AND does not fray the carbon fiber. I like to saw a little and then rotate the barrel a little and saw some more around and around evenly.This prevents the cut from wandering off the scribe line. Continue gently sawing and rotating until COMPLETELY through the carbon fiber. If you try to break the carbon fiber end off without completely cutting through, the carbon fiber may tear and ruin at the cut.
7. Once the cut is complete, the plug will be inside the cut off piece. It is wedged AND glued in place. The easiest way to get the plug out is to make 2 more cross section cuts at either end of the plug and then a careful bias cut just barely through the CF. Now take the hacksaw blade, insert it in the bias cut and twist the blade to open the cut to release the plug. Careful to not touch the plug with the saw blade or you will ruin the plug from sealing when you put it back into the barrel.
8. Now remove the paper wrap from the barrel and take a metal cutting hand file and gently file across the new muzzle end cut in the barrel. This helps to prevent the carbon fiber from fraying at the new cut.
9. If you have a half round file you can use it or the above file to gently taper the inside of the barrel. This filing helps to ease starting the plug back into the barrel and later easing starting the muzzle back into the barrel.
9. Now measure the muzzle shaft [shaft is the part of the muzzle that is inserted into the barrel].
10. Now take that same measurement and add a 1/4in or so to it and use a light marker to mark the barrel. eg== if your muzzle shaft is 1 1/4 long, put a mark on the muzzle at 1 1/2in. [or more if you want]. This will ensure that the muzzle can fully insert back into the muzzle without touching reinserted plug.
11. Take a piece of stiff wire or tape measure the distance from the barrel end to the new plug mark on the barrel. Bend the wire at this distance or write down the measured distance to ensure that you slide the plug in just the correct distance down into the barrel.
12. Clean the inside of the barrel to remove any old glue from the factory plug instalation. The factory glue APPEARS to be wetsuit glue which can be easily scrapped off or even rolled off just using your finger / finger nail inside the barrel.
13. Now get ready to insert the plug back into the barrel. This is not easy and can ruin the whole job if not done correctly. It take a consideral amount of force to PUSH the plug back in. Pounding the rubber plug into the carbon fiber barrel has a lot of risk of damage and my method worked very good and easy. Sooooo--I dismantled a moving cart wheel from the axle and layed the cart down on the floor with the other remaining wheel against my bed. This put the 5/8in diam. axle about 12in off the floor and just the correct distance from the other wall in the room so that I could put my back against the wall to push against the gun grip. I now had a 5/8in dia. rod 3in long very solid that I could push against. Now my "machine press' was ready.
14. The barrel plug is tapered. so make sure to start the tapered end into the barrel first. I used Yazbeck wetsuit glue to lub and glue in the plug and it has worked great.
Get your ruler or bent wire ready and put a towel down on the floor at the axle end to catch any excess glue. I took the Yazbeck and lubed up the inside of the barrel and the plug. Start the plug [taper first] into the barrel and quickly get your body into place to push the plug against the axle. Back against the wall, gun grip in both hands and plug against the axle end. Now start gradually pushing against the gun grip and the plug will start to slide into the barrel. Stop pushing and use the bent wire or ruler to measure how deep the plug is into the barrel and repeat pushing and measuring until the plug is just where you want it. It is better to have the plug in a little too deep than not enough.
15. Once the plug is into the barrel at the correct depth, turn the gun with the grip towards the ceiling and turn the cart over so that you can put the plug in against the axle and lean the gun against the wall with the grip up to let the glue dry. This is important as the excess glue in the air chamber of the barrel will run down to the plug to help form a better seal against the plug and the plug against the axle will keep the plug from sliding back out towards the muzzle end. Make sure to wipe any excess glue out of the barrel end before it dries so that the excess plug glue does not interfer with installing the muzzle tomorrow after the glue sets.
16. Redrill the barrel for the barrel / muzzle set screw. I drilled a 1/4 in or so a ways from the original muzzle hole to insure that the old and new holes didn't interfer with each other. Drill the hole in the muzzle just big enough that the set screw will go through the barrel without twisting. I used 3in1 oil to lube up the muzzle and twisted and pushed the muzzle back into the muzzle. Insert the spear in the gun and twist the muzzle until the muzzle is perfectly aleigned with the gun rail. Now use a slightly smaller drill bit to drill the set screw pilot hole in the muzzle with the muzzle in its final place. Screw in the muzzle / barrel set screw, cut your bands to 24in [short], 26in [med], 291n [long] for a RA 120, attach your spear line and you are ready to kill fish :attack3:
Hope this helps
hau

LunkerBuster---essentually in #7 you have the plug in the barrel cut off piece. To remove the plug from this 3 1/2--or longer piece of barrel you have to cut it out of the barrel so as to not risk damaging the plug. To do this I cut the removed barrel piece just in front of and just behind the plug. Then I cut the barrel piece long ways parrarel to the rail so that I could wedge open the remaining barrel section with the plug in it. You have to open the barrel section as the plug is glued as well as wedged in place at the factory. [or you could order a new barrel plug from FF if you wanted a new plug or damaged the old one while removing it]
Hope this makes #7 clearer

Thanks guys
I hope this is helpful to someone who wants to cut down their CF gun.

attan---Ya Mon. It is actually much easier to cut an alum barrel using the exact same steps as cutting down a CF barrel.
Let me know if I can help further.