How to lacquer a gun

do you have any wood working expeience? Use fine grit paper, 90 is way too coarse, the gun is smooth already, I would hit it with like 200 just to open the surface up a little bit.

others know far more than me, but I think any exopy resin will do, just make sure it is UV protected...you might be able to get away with a laquer, but I think the result will be a thinner finish that will need more upkeep

Quote from fishingdude

So after walking around to the different booths at blue wild and seein the sick looking wood guns, I been starting to think about lacquering my gun. Not sure what to do lol, but I got a few tips from Andrew at Nautilus: 90grit sandpaper all around, paint, and dry. I was wondering if anyone has tried this yet and if there are any tips that you can give me, cuz I dont want to mess this up lol!

Choosing a prep method and finish depends on several things:
1. wood or metal ?
2. Cost ?
3. How much time do you want commit to? ( few realize a flat hi gloss UV resistant mulit coat finish could take 20hrs or more)
4.Does the gun have a finish now, what material was used ?
5.If a wood gun, has oil ever been used?
I'll check back later after work.
Cheers, Don

Quote from Don Paul

3. How much time do you want commit to? ( few realize a flat hi gloss UV resistant mulit coat finish could take 20hrs or more)

What Don said.

I used a two part epoxy with 8layers on my gun it took 3days.

But it looks great! Always looks wet and hasn't/won't yellow or chip.

Using good stuff is key! It could get very costly. . .

PM sent.

It is probably oiled. With a couple more coats of teak oil it should get shiny. Applying oil is way easier, faster, and cleaner than messing with epoxy.

Quote from seaweed

It is probably oiled. With a couple more coats of teak oil it should get shiny. Applying oil is way easier, faster, and cleaner than messing with epoxy.

:agree1:

No oil from me, probably from Andre though.
__________________
Ben Choi

I looked at their site, they talk about the oily benefit of teak and do not mention a poly or epoxy top coat.
You can wash and sand off a oil finish with solvents but it will take more time if your going with epoxy or two pack varnish. I have been using Phil Herranen system UV epoxy, it cost around fifty bucks for a two
part quart. Finish has a wet look if desired can also be knocked down with a fine 3M pad for a satin look.
Cheers, Don Paul

Quote from Don Paul

I have been using Phil Herranen system UV epoxy, it cost around fifty bucks for a two
part quart. Finish has a wet look if desired can also be knocked down with a fine 3M pad for a satin look.
Cheers, Don Paul

Is this different then the West Marine stuff. I need to recoat one of my guns. It has started chipping from nasty shore exits.

Mike

Quote from ladvr

Is this different then the West Marine stuff. I need to recoat one of my guns. It has started chipping from nasty shore exits.

Mike

I have been using West Marine (Gougeon Bros) resins for 30 years. I just used Phil's resin on two guns. It produces a smother top coat with UV protection, if the instructions are followed and the hand of the applier is good.

Cheers, Don

I might just stick with the teak oil method. how often do you guys with wood guns oil them?[/QUOTE]

It all depends on the amount of time it's in the water and sun. I used to wrap a plastic bag around the bands.( latex not happy with teak oil soaking) . I dove every other day with my early teak guns and a wipe down with teak oil every two weeks was more then enough. Some guys get more into their teak oil finish and do muilti coats and fine sand paper to build up a oil long lasting oil finish they can polish.

There is also Tung oil finish.

Cheers, Don