Dust Problem

maybe you can wet sand it????

I used to do some colored copper stuff that I sprayed with clear lacquer, and experienced the same problem. There was no way that I could really dustproof my shop, but this worked for me:

I set a scrap piece of drywall on the bench, a bit larger than the piece of copper I wanted to spray. I then found a cardboard box, again a bit larger than the copper piece, and cut it down until it was just 4" tall or so. When I was ready to spray the copper, I would first wipe and then spray the top of the drywall, and the inside of the box. Then I would spray my piece of copper, and set it on the drywall with a few wire spacers underneath. Then set the carboard box over the copper, open side down, with a few thin pieces of wood around the edges to support it and provide just 1/2" or so of space underneath. The tacky walls of the cardboard box and drywall hold the dust that is already inside, and protect the copper from additional dust floating around.

It does take a little longer to dry because there is little air movement, but it did a pretty good job of keeping the dust off. I realize that it's not a particularly elegant solution, and not near as good as a truly clean environment, but it works in a pinch.

First, the finish is going to get nicked and scratched on the boat. You can take this two ways: you can reduce your give a shit factor for now or just keep in mind that any imperfections now will be fixed when you fix the scratches. I chose both! I was literally coating a speargun last night and have had some difficulties.

Second, are you sure that it is dust? On my first gun, I had problems from tiny bubbles forming on the epoxy while curing that I thought was particles. I had to slow down on the brushing and make sure the wood matched the temp of the room. If it is cooler, I've read that bubbles can form.

I almost forgot to tell you that I'm going to vacuum the brushes beforehand the next time I do this.

P. S. Phil's instructions say to just blow off dust (no acetone).

As I read this I wonder why you're going through all this trouble. I suggested an easy and effective finish in the penetrating epoxy, you would've been done in one day. I'm no expert on finishing with epoxy but it doesn't sound like a dust problem to me. How are you letting the stock dry? Is it hanging or laying horizontally? If it's laying horizontally there should be no particles on the bottom side if it's really dust that's causing it. I had no such problem the one time I epoxy coated a gun and used a chicken turner.

Theoretically someone may think it's not a good idea. Practically I've finished a few guns with penetrating epoxy and it does the job of sealing and protecting the stock, with a minimal investment of work. A gun is a tool that's meant to be used. If it's going to get used there will be nicks and scratches. Getting it to look pretty for the first few days of it's life should be weighed against how much work it will require. IMO not worth the hassle, unless you're making the gun to sell for $1000.

Xan, I understand your desire for perfection but I think you are chasig an unattainable goal. Remember the epoxy serves a few purposes and only one is to look good. You have already sealed the stock right (first coat) and you are looking for a super smooth overcoat correct?

even if some people are against the penetrating epoxy, for the over coat, it should have no downsides as the stock is already sealed.

I love the look of my wood gun once it is resanded and refinished, but it actually is a relief when the first scratch comes back cos then I can stop babying the gun and get back to using it as a tool.

just my view.

good luck if you continue to chase perfection...and post some damn pics when you succed

I don't know about mixing epoxy with other chemicals other than xylene but I did too read about it and did my own experiment. I did a test sample using west 105 straight and diluted with xylene and also another test sample with the epoxy that I use for finishing my guns also straight and diluted. I found that there's is no difference in hardness or durability (one such coated gun is 14 years old). Also the guns coated with epoxy/xylene the finish is easier to apply, uses less epoxy and is easier to obtain that smooth as glass finish on the gun. About the dust problem, you might have a little static on your blank (maybe from rubbing it with a rag when cleaning or walking over carpeting on the way to the bathroom?) It might sound silly but try grounding your blank or wiping it down with an anti-static rag. Also if you could borrow an air purifier and let it run in the bathroom to clean the air before and during the epoxy aplication.

Xan. You might want to pm Phil. I have read that from him but also recall him saying something about how that doesn't apply in some situations. Don't quote me yet cos I cannot remember the exact thing he said. I'll look into it as well

I will get back to this thread tonight
Phil

Sorry for the geting back late it's been a bad couple weeks for me. The "dust" you are geting could be from the brush I never use a new brush for a final coat thy allways have lint and other debris in them I normaly do a coat and then clean the brush in acitone then store it in a pail of clean acitone and then shake and blow it off before the next use
Phil