Rotisserie & Gun Coating

    An electric grill rotisserie kit is on sale at Lowes for $17. I was thinking of buying it to use it to apply epoxy on spearguns. I remember Dan and Don mentioning it a long way back to get an even coat. I've seen some other builds where people have used it instead of just hanging. Should I try it or am I delusional?

    Quote from JimCuda

    An electric grill rotisserie kit is on sale at Lowes for $17. I was thinking of buying it to use it to apply epoxy on spearguns. I remember Dan and Don mentioning it a long way back to get an even coat. I've seen some other builds where people have used it instead of just hanging. Should I try it or am I delusional?


    I have one like this I have had for 30 years, I first used it when I rebuilt cane fly rods to get the shellac even. This one is on Fleebay now @ 6 bucks. I have only spun 4 guns, but it will save you from baby sitting sag and runs duty, not to mention cool camo jobs bed easier.


    The Lowes one sounds great, I'll take a look. The cord on old school one is looking worn.


    Cheers, Don

    Before I got into diving and building guns I used to use a turnig jig with a rotisserie motor for the fly rods I built and epoxy head flies I tied. It is just about the only way to epoxy coat thread wraps with an even coat. Now I use it for the guns I build. It does work well.


    MN

    I'll take anything to make the epoxy/polyurethane finishes come out better. Is there a specific technique? I imagine I'm just trying to spread the coating as evenly as I can side to side.

    The only tricky part is how to attach the gun to the turner. The rear end is usually no problem because the loading butt will cover whatever hole you make. At the front end I used the shark spike supported on rollers. Probably you will not have one, so you'll need to make a hole for a small diameter metal rod that's stiff enough to support straight the weight of the gun, then touch up the area after the coating dries. Probably there's a cleaner way but that's all I could think of.


    I wouldn't bother with any of this and just use penetrating epoxy. You couldn't mess it up if you tried.

    I like the Penetrating Epoxy Finish, but I'm interested in doing some designs and mastering the coating process. I already have Phil's Epoxy on hand as well as lot of Bristol Finish Polyurethane (Steve Veros recommendation), so this would augment that.


    I may not end up buying it and just go with the Penetrating Epoxy/Xylene finish which would only cost a little bit more.

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