First gun build.

Looking good, what information are you seeking exactly?

Well the length infront depends on what you are targeting and in what environment you are hunting, rocks, reef, grass/sand bottom? Behind the handle is personal preference but I like no more than 11inches preferably.

Not sure what info you are looking for but there is a lot compiled in this thread.

http://spearfishing.world/spea…3-gun-building-101-a.html

Another suggestion is to find a gun on the market and use it as a baseline. From the look of your drawing I suggest finding a Koah Euro. I think you will be a little surprised how similar it is to your design.

If your stock is 1 3/4" tall at the back you will have more than enough material for your design. The neptonics mech is 1" and although I do not know the thickness of the base plate of the JBL handle I don't think it is more than .25" which even when fully recessed leaves you with .5" of wood between the mech and the handle. That is more than enough. Also you have the extra "pad" for mounting a reel. Unless you like the aesthetics it isn't necessary. An enclosed track will not be more than 5/8" from the top of the gun and none of the reels that I know of require screws longer than .75" again leaving plenty of meat.

Not sure if that is what you are asking for or not.

Edit, they no longer sell the bits I bought. :confused1:

http://www.amanatool.com/bits-fv/45960.html

You don't need a dovetail if you are going to pour an epoxy track. a regular end mill will work. .5" will be just fine but if you have a smaller bit you can do it in multiple passes. Finding a bit for a 7.5 mm shaft might be tricky but a bit for an 8mm or 5/16" will work fine. Most of the carbide tooling companies will sell a ball end bit that will work. Don't use a burr style bit as it will clog and burn up the track. Look for a bit that has 2 cutting surfaces if possible. If not a single cutting surface will work it will just take longer and clog faster. Another tip is to remove as much material as possible with a .125" or .25" end mill before using the ball end bits. Depending on the epoxy you uses you will have to adjust the feed rate. Some epoxies are more brittle than others.

As for graphite yes any graphite will work I use molybdenum graphite I have left over from some previous projects. You can also add microfiber fillers or even chopped carbon fiber to add additional strength to the track. Dies are also fun to play with. You can get some pretty nice colors if that is your thing.

When you go to pour the track what I have found works best is to mix up substantially more than you need place it in a 1 gallon ziploc bag let it settle for a minute allowing bubbles to rise to the top. Then cut out one corner of the bag and pour the track from the bottom of the bag. This will help eliminate bubbles but you will still have a few so make sure you over pour the track as much as an .125" or more.

The blow torch will get a few of the bubbles but unless you can spend 8 hours watching and going over the track with a torch its mostly a waste of time. It is also really easy to scorch the epoxy with a torch.

The track will run the length of the gun. I have seen some people pour just the front 3-12 inches but I prefer the full length track.

Is this gun for free diving or scuba?

Tigerwood (the species I am familiar with) is very dense.
By the time you add your hardware it could be a sinker with the shaft out.

Goncalo Alves | The Wood Database - Lumber Identification (Hardwoods)

Average Dried Weight: 57 lbs/ft3 (905 kg/m3)

Ocean water: 1020 kg/m3

You could consider using the sexy tigerwood as the out side laminates and introduce 3 lighter timbers to the core?