Posts by marginatus

    haven't made much tests as this gun is new and i have only used it 4 time... it was as accurate with some older bands as with these... It probably won't make much difference but for sure it's not better!
    Also I didn't liked the fact that the store basically denied that there was a difference from normal production... Instead they could contact the manufacturer to give some feedback or at least say that there was a variation but that it wouldn't prevent the band from doing it's job well...
    I'm waiting for the experts too :)

    constrictor knot is a weak point, any bend in spectra is a weak point and negates the tedious process of splicing your gear together in the first place.
    Edit: Unless you mean tie another bit of line on as a stopper for the bead...hummmmm...did not think of that, it should work and be strong as welll.


    Yes, constrictor knot with another line just to stop the bead...
    I don't see how the constrictor would work otherwise :)
    I haven't tryed it but not having metal against the spectra would be better... just my opinion...

    Dan,
    It always bothers me when rigging gear to go after big fish that I take my time and splice everything together, take care to the most minute detail then have a bungee or whatever rigged with a knot or put any weak link in my gear chain soooooo.... what this does is allow me to splice my bungees and still have a hard point for the rubber to stretch against without weakening the actual line inside by tying any kind of knot as a brace for the constrictor knots on the outside. It is simply a crimp behind a bead to keep the bead in place to act as the hard point when the fish runs and allow the bungee to stretch. It only really matters if you are going against big hard running fish like Marlin. But it is a better way.


    instead of the crimp, why not a constrictor knot to stop the bead?

    After rereading this post as I wanted to put some beads on a muzzle bungee/shock cord I am rigging to avoid making knots(knots or bends in spectra/kevlar seriously weaken the breaking strength). The idea is you splice the loops and inside the bungee rather than making a knot for the whipping to brace against you use a bead and crimp behind the bead at the spliced spot, this creates a hard point for the bead to brace against and you have not weakened the line in any way(no point rigging gear for big game and creating weak points!!).
    http://img850.imageshack.us/im…adstobracemuzlebungee.jpg
    BUT i stray as the point was to get some info/tips on technique of actually doing a crimp onto spectra, read this again as I had missed this knot suggestion and after some reasearch I found out it is touted as being the strongest knot for braided line/spectra/ PERIOD. so just bring it to the forefront, thanks Makoa.
    Palomar Knot | How to tie the Palomar Knot | Knots


    thanks.
    Will try it for using spectra on a spear...
    Will have to make a big ass loop or just do it beforehand and figure out a way to do it fro the spear without having to make the loop

    Good info on the spoon :)
    I never had a camo suit and so far I've done OK. On my last suit, having it with camo was streaching the budget so I got it without... My take on it is that at the least, camo won't be worse then not camo so my next suit will have camo :)
    Also it look's cool 8)

    Just to help, not trying to be a smart ass
    CONVERSION CHART: FRACTION/DECIMAL/MILLIMETER


    I meant that I didn't had the chance to confirm that the ID was 1mm with my own hands/eyes... I know the 1/16" correspondence in mm as I do a lot of conversions (those fraction aren't all that intuitive... but people are used to it.)
    Even better just use google as a conversion tool:
    type in the google search field:
    1/16 inch in mm
    or whatever you want to convert like


    20 usd in euro


    13 mph in km/h


    10 feet in m

    George's is for a straight wishbone. Good to have here for reference.


    Marginatus, thanks. I will try the double sheet bend, I just pull the bands apart as hard as I can to test. But using a spectra wishbone without a knot.. I'm skeptical. Still I hope it works as you're right, it's a cleaner look.


    let us know how it works.

    LB, don't know about the replaceable bit, but after tying the distance between the bands is 2".


    marginatus, that's a nice knot. Please post a link to instructions. BTW there's a chance your wishbone will slip through the knot, even though it has a small lip from melting the end. I put a knot on each end like in Marco's pic.


    here's how to:
    Lanyard (Diamond) Knot | How to Tie a Lanyard (Diamond) Knot | Decorative Knots
    you then just need to adjust the loop size.


    It won't slip because I use the double sheet bend
    Sheet Bend (Becket Bend) | How to tie a Sheet Bend (Becket Bend) | The Basics Knots
    with a sheet bend, you're right, that lip wouldn't be enough but with the double, the end knot you mention isn't needed.
    I prefer it without the knot as it's more streamlined, less bulky and I prefer it's minimal look :)
    I've used it this way up to 390% without problem... this one is at 350% tough

    Before you start changing configurations due to lack of power, I suggest you try using the best rubber available at your current configuration. Then cut a little shorter in small increments. I don't know if Speardiver rubber is the best in the whole world, but it's the best I've used. I do know it's the only small ID rubber available at this time. I'll have more 16mm in about 2 weeks, and also new 14mm in small ID.


    Just made some bands with Cressi brown rubber and the ID is 1,8mm.