Pete, incidentally I was on a dive last week and shot a parrot fish, perfect just behind the gill plate, should have been in the bag. But.... the flopper did not engage and the fish got off. This puzzled me, until i pulled my shaft up. My spear (with a very sharp pencil point) had punched through two large scales. I believe that these scales had gotten stuck on the flopper, holding it down, allowing the fish to get off. I think if my tip had been either a tricut, or just a bit duller, the scales would not have been punctured but rather pushed aside or through the fish, allowing my shot to hold. I realize on probably 99 out of 100 shots on a fish like this the fish would have been mine, but in this instance my needle sharp pencil tip was not a good thing. Oh well, learning from experience.
Posts by Akira dkt
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Awesome thanks for the help that sounds great! And yes I will I'll post some pics! Hoping to find some fatties! I had another question. Im a shorter stature type guy with so muscle and I ordered a pathos thira wetsuit size small. I noticed when I put the bottoms on (long johns) there is a gap in my lower back. Everything feels great around my legs and even the top portion feels good. But I still have a little gap of air in my lower back. Anyone else have this problem? Will that be a major issue?
Dont worry about the gap, your top should be snug enough to keep the material close to your skin. I agree with what Dan said, farmer johns are a pain when you gotta take an aqua deuce, but they do add an extra layer of insulation around the core. I tend to either order just pants style or cut the johns off above the stitched seam.
The cressi comanche handle is one of my favorites for its simplicity and comfort. I used it with a single band, (cut the muzzle screw in and modified it to just use one circular rubber) It handled up to a single 20mm band. I then used the handle to make my first roller pipe gun. It works but you have to be careful loading or the rocking sear can get jammed. I figured out that if you do not pull the shaft to where the sear is fully engaged before laodding yout bands it can get stuck in a position where even pulling the trigger completely will not release the shaft. Maybe it could have been just mine, but just have that in mind when loading the comanche trigger mech with more than one band, or any setup with more power like a roller. Anyway goodluck on your trip.
Dive safe,
Josh
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MVD predator Mech max load is rated to 375kg/800+lbs. Cut that in half and that is still much more weight than most spearguns will load to.
so...
Yes it will hold the band tension of an inverted roller.
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I have little experience with spear tips that screw on to a spear (other than slip tips), and generally use a simple single barbed spear shaft, with either a tricut or pencil tip. I definitely do not doubt your experience Pete, I just wanted to include my opinion on why these styles of tips would or would not be effective. I defintely think that fluted, or bladed tips do have their pros, as mentioned above. But will they last in salt water, will they hold up if shot into rock or coral, and how much does their advantage in performance outweigh their cost? Opposed to using a simple single barbed spear.
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These tips present some intriguing possibilities for spin stabilized projectiles in underwater flight.
https://www.newfrog.com/es/product/4...ge_recommendedRussian "Marlin" tip said to be a spinner in flight, but although I own one I have been too busy with shooting fish to ever consider swapping it over, always thinking maybe next time.
The idea of spinning to stabilize the shot of the spear would only work in the case of free shafting, or utilizing a tip that will swivel (thus negating the stabilization effect on the shaft it self. I really dont think the distance that spears are shot (up to 20ft/7m) will allow time enough for stabilization. Also the idea of causing incapacitating damage on a fish using a sharpened broadhead like speartip doesn't really make much sense to me. You would need to shoot a fish in the organs which is where it is most likely to cause a tearout.
I think the true advantage of a broadhead style spear tip is bone breaking/splitting. In archery, many broadheads are designed for mainly soft tissue damage on mammals. But, if bones are in the way many of these will become damaged, dulled, or deflect off of the bone, sparing vital organs from ideal damage from sharp, intact blades. For this reason, many people who hunt thick skinned, large boned mammals, such as Hogs, feral cattle, elk, buffalo, etc..(big shit) will utilize heavy duty 3 bladed broadheads, or single beveled 2 bladed broadheads. These are designed to split bone and break it allowing for better penetration, and blade retention....AAAAAnnnnnnywhooo, I dont know how many times ive spined a good fish and had it dead to rights, but death wobble off my shaft, and out of my life forever. A speartip designed to split bone (tricut, or fluted tricut, or broadhead style tip) could potentially result in the spear passing through thick bone, rather than stopping short.
This being said, has anyone seen the video of the guy shooting walleye with tpost shaped spears. Those would probably do the job.
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nice to see seahawk is slimming down the profile of their guns. Really cool concept. Carbonfiber makes it possible.
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Rollers tend to shoot low if your'e used to shooting a typical railgun. Practice with the gun and you will learn how to aim it. I love using rollers, but as a gun builder, I also love to shoot every gun I create, so switching from roller to a double rubber is frustrating. I am currently building a few guns, including a polyplast/demultiplied roller, as well as a fusion roller.
I have high hopes for the fusion design being that it utilizes the band setup of a roller (band movement over and under the barrel/stock, decreasing recoil) while eliminating the rollers downward momentum causing the typical muzzle flip that results in roller shooting low.
Fusions dont utilize the full length of the barrel, however they do allow you to load multiple bands underneath the barrel making up for that loss in power stroke. plus they are much simpler to set up and load than a polyplast/demultiplier (no extra pullys).
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8mm+ for Pelagics/ GT
7.5 for most open track reef guns
7 for enclosed track reef guns
For the reef guns I find a shorter 7.5 seems to balance well on pipe guns, rollers, and open track wood guns. The 7mm shafts on enclosed reef guns are a bit longer, and seem to shoot a bit faster out of an enclosed track, both generally have enough mass to penetrate most reef fish in HI.
I reserve 8mm shafts for Ulua/GT because they have less tendency to bend (still bend if shot is shit) and more mass to push through thick bodied and skulled fish.
8mm+ for pelagics for the extra mass resulting in more penetration even at longer ranges, and more stabilization using heavy bands.
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Ive tried rattles, pvc and aluminum. IMO, not worth it. Just another thing to hold onto while diving. Scratching rocks, and grunting seems to work just fine.
The only place i could see a rattle working is on a flasher rig, achieving both audio and visual intrigue to predatory fish.
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That line is not true dyneema. It is dyneema cored polyester. It sucks balls. (pardon my french)
Use dyneema cored dyneema (aussie line) or braided spectra (dynaglyde, neptonics, etc). this goes for reel line as well, dont waste your money on the cheep poly sleeve dyneema.
In any case it may not be your wishbone elevator (bridge on muzzle). It may be your shaft. Make sure your notches are smooth. Rob allen and other SA style shafts tend to have the best notches for dyneema style wishbones. If youre not able to file the notches smooth. invest in a shaft with low profile sharkfins.
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I liked the look of the x1/bucanero. nice deep track, rigid alumunum barrel, good looking muzzle configuration. The handle looks very ergonomic and the trigger looks strong. It just didnt fit my hand, seemed to be reaching for the trigger way too much. Also the loading butt extension seemed a bit thin, like it could break fairly easily.
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The Pathos grip is removed by punching out the plastic pin. Then with a lot of swearing and crying, basically destroying the handle in a vise while you hammer on the handle frame.
The stock grip (generally right handed ergo target style grip) is lightly glued on to the handle frame.
Youll need to :
1.Tap the pin out,
2.Place the grip in a vise (use cloth to keep the knerling on the jaws from causing too much damage to the grip....if you want to save it)
3.lightly tap on the plastic frame (trigger gaurd) to see if the impact will break the glue
4.If not, use a mechanics chisel or a dull wood chisel to seperate the grip from the handle frame (tapping on the chisel with the mallet creating a wedge between the two pieces)
5.This may not work (it usually does) but if the glue is a little too much you may want to cut into the grip with a hack saw (not too deep into the handle frame)
6. Ive also filed and shaped the handle to fit my hand better.
Hope this helps,
Josh
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@Distractions_kill_time
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Well the one you built me is no theory, badass to the bone Joshua!
Lol. I need you to get a shaft for it and shoot a fat hoo!!
btw George. Im building one for myself soon, just waiting on the muzzle to come in.
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I dont have experience with cable mori slip tips. Cable slip tips ive used, the ball crimp is able to pass through the opening.
You may be able to cool the slip tip using dry ice, allowing the metal to contract possibly giving the ball crimp enough room to push through the opening.
I dont think widening the hole will make the tip perform any differently, it will just allow the ball to move freely in and out of the tip, not really a big deal unless you think it may compromise the integrity of the tips strength.
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Pole spearing is a great way to practice your stalking technique and breath hold. I started out spearfishing in Hawaii (as many do) with a 3 pronged pole spear. Today, I generally only use this over a speargun when targeting small pan frying fish, where going though the motions of collecting your shaft, wrapping your shooting line, and loading your bands (as well as smashing your spear tip into rocks) is just not worth it.
In some places (The Bahamas, parts of Japan...i believe) it is ILLEGAL to posses a speargun, so pole-spearing and slinging is the only option.
Pole spearing can be a way to challenge a spearo. (Yes you must get closer)
It can be compared to terrestrial hunting with archery equipment rather than a fire arm, or hunting with a traditional bow rather than a compound bow.
The shot is much slower and the range is generally the length of the spear if even that.
Depending on what youre hunting I have a few suggestions.
-smaller fish (<1 to 3 lbs) you can use a general graphite or aluminum spear with a 3 prong (paralizer style) spear tip (kmart special, kawabunga)
-small/medium fish (4 to 10 lbs) you may want a more robust carbon-fiber or aluminum spear (evolve, gatku..., neritic bantam)
-medium/large (anything over 20) youll want a spear designed to take the abuse you and the fish you spear may put it through. (Neritic big blue, billfish republic, headhunter)
I personally cant see myself spending money on some of these polespears (some are big $$$.....for a pointy stick) But i guess if a speargun wasnt an option you'd have no choice.
Hope this helps
dive safe
Josh
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figure out the maximum band stretch you can have. Then divide that by 4, this will be your band length. These guns are interesting in theory. Although the pulley system cuts the amount of load on the shaft in half, the same amount of work is being exerted on the shaft in motion. This results in a smoother shot utilizing the full length of the barrel, as well as the full stretch of the bands, without any noticable recoil. This means you can use large diameter shafts on a relatively low profile speargun, all you need to do is add more bands.
As far as accuracy goes.... youll have to play around with the gun, no prototype gun is accurate without field testing, and tinkering.
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Here's some of the best advice I can offer.
Dive with a partner!! Dive with a partner that is better than you. You'll be improving faster than you realize.
....seriously tho
Dive safe,
Josh
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Id run rubbers as short as possible meaning maximum band stretch. 400% (4x as long as unstretched band)
pullys will cut the band power to the shaft in half so load up at least 3 pairs of bands.
make sure your anchor points, rollers (sheaves and axle), as well as your trigger mechanism can handle this load.
Definitely play around with the number of bands and thicknesses of bands with this one, there is even less information on these types of guns, band setup.
Josh
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If the Problem is equalization, maybe see a ear nose and throat specialist. But if you've dove 21m before comfortably, you should be able to do it again.
Maybe try some dry land breatholds.
Lay on the floor or in bed, breath up as you would before a dive, then hold your breath and time yourself. Record each time, try to beat or match the time previously. Do this maybe 5 times a day if you can manage.
I like to listen to relaxing music while doing this but to each his/her own. You should improve your breath hold and get a good idea of how to lower your heart rate and relax your body pre dive.
