Posts by Silentstoning

    Any time I hear someone ask about these I just cock my head to the side and say, "really, that's a question?" These things are a joke. For them to even come back and say they are investigating the situation. Complete bullshit.

    I like that it has a switch instead of a twist. Twisting a light on is a pain in the ass. I don't understand why so many (dare I say majority) of those lights are twist on/off. I'm going to need to snag one. Sorry for the derail.

    I'm not seeing anything calling out to me. The handle looks like they couldn't give half a shit. The muzzle just isn't doing it for me. Maybe if I saw it in person or a different angle. Maybe with the bands pulled back... the flashlight, on the other hand, I'd go for.

    It is recessed, however, a few things that give the appearance that it isn't. First, I tapered the gun from the muzzle to the butt. As I was doing this it started looking less recessed in the front part of the handle (something I did not consider). It was almost flush at front and completely flush at the rear as it tapers before applying any coats. Second, when I coated it I got a lot of build up in the pocket. I will chisel that out so it sets in there better. Lastly, the front screw is not all the way screwed in. When I put the screws in I realized they weren't the ones I wanted and figured I'd get back to that. I was just too damn excited so I put it together and snapped off some pictures.


    I thought I was hiding the "to be fixed" areas in the pictures. Good eye for catching that though.

    Bad mother focker indeed.


    You must have big hands.


    My hands are not too big. Indeed, the handle is large. I was really trying to ensure that the grip filled my hand completely trying to avoid any gaps. I wanted more girth so it was like holding a magic marker compared to a pencil. I will take a closer picture with the grip in my hand for a better look, but it is actually heavily tapered for my fingers so it isn't as large as it looks. Where it is large is mostly the palm (to help absorb recoil) and the space between my finger tips and palm (so essentially a void space). After seeing all these guys do polymorph on their handles I figured I could get pretty close with a wood grip. I also didn't want to lose too much wood because I figure if I hit the water and it just isn't working for me I could easily remove wood and reshape. Out of the water the handle feels great. I think it will be easier to control and help with recoil. We shall see.

    Turned out great man. I am definitely going to use your red track design in a future build.:thumbsup2:


    Thanks! The pigment is pretty cool and I think you could get creative with it. Since it is added to the epoxy you could even do a poured enclosed track. I think that would look pretty cool. Maybe even alternate and mix colors.

    That is because many railguns are too light, especially with carbon tube barrels, whereas a certain amount of metalwork is unavoidable in a pneumatic gun. Tuna guns that are properly ballasted don't have much recoil, but are very heavy guns out of the water and are bulky in the bodywork in order to float. Steve Alexander and Bill Kitto are the guys who have written quite a bit on gun ballasting, so something to read up on. No theories there, just the facts.


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    Thanks for the Alexander link. I have not read that one.

    I'm not a theoretical guru, but I've shot many band guns and pneumatic guns over my life. Now I have a chronic wirst injury and I can only use rollerguns or pneumatics to avoid pain.


    I have never shot a big tuna gun, but I have shot a 110 Abellan and I can positively say that a Cyrano EVO HF has (lots) less recoil than the Abellan.


    And if you compare with railguns, it's night and day.


    The subjective element probably has the same, if not more, weight in gold than the theory/data. Because at the end of the day the mind game we play with ourselves is what really puts fish in the cooler. It's fun to talk about theory and how things work, but that doesn't really cross my mind out in the water.

    Every piece of wood is different: That is why specific gravity is generally listed as a range rather than an exact value. Math can give you a good approximation, but perfect weight and, equally important, balance, are best achieved in the water


    True, but good for a base point. To get an idea at least.

    Nicely put gentlemen.


    Diving gecko, with respect, some of your points regarding the efficiency of pneumatics over bands I am not seeing what the true benefit is.
    -Regarding the contraction of the bands in relation to hydrodynamics I do not see how this is an issue. Yes, the bands contract and are less hydrodynamic, but to what loss? Isn't the energy already sent to the shaft at that point? The contracted bands shouldn't slow the shaft down, or does it? Unless the issue you are referring to is the loose contracted bands are now not moving as easily through the water when you are swimming, but on the shot itself I do not see an issue. Is there?
    -Regarding recoil, I haven't shot pneumatics, but based on what you are saying it appears that is based off 2lb pipe guns. Since you have shot both I'm sure you would know more than I do what would have more recoil, but some band guns are monster logs. Whether those guns have less recoil than a comparable pneumatic, I would not know. If you were to compare a nicely weighted wood gun to what would be an equivalent pneumatic, would the pneumatic truly have less recoil?


    With regard to the 30m/sec for band guns, now that you mention it I believe you are correct that 30 is the high. I just remember hearing 30, but thinking back after you point out the Russians (Ukrainians?) I believe when I heard that it was in reference to them and that was a high. I believe average is mid 20s??? Don't quote me on that though.


    But I guess, like Pete alluded to (I think), it isn't about reaching the greatest speeds. It is about obtaining the speed necessary for the purpose.