What kind of wrasse was it? I know Napoleon wrasse can get very big. The only wrasse we shoot here is the hogfish.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hp…896_2241832_7347151_n.jpg
That is a maori humpheaded wrasse. I think you would go to gaol over here if you shot one.
They get massive- there is supposed to be one around 150kg I think the biggest is 190kg
serious question. Why shoot a fish if you dont know what it is?
Do yous have restrictions over there for what you can and cant take and size limits?
Guys, assuming the Paxman reel is very good, do you think $130 is a reasonable price to pay? Would you buy it at that price? I mean is there nothing comparable in performance on the market for less?
I dont think so. No washers bearings or anything else that can go wrong.
yellowfin tuna, dog tooth tuna, wahoo, mackerel and more have been landed with these reels.
Alot of that has to do with the guys using them but are the best reel I have seen.
In australia we pay around that for an RA composite so its no big deal, plus if the Paxman breaks you have excellent service.
Have a look at the thread and see if you would use any other reel if you were catching fish like this all the time.
theres even a tiger shark in there.
orca are the same shafts as pelaj.
Yes Barry is a very good spearfisherman and a great person. I think there is 3 generations of Australian representative spearfisherman in his family.
I have two of his reels, 1 for railgun and 1 for woodie.
There is a reel available in Australia that doesnt require drill holes.
Its considered the best reel you can get over here.
the guy who makes it has a thread on spearboard of some of his captures.
http://spearboard.com/showthread.php?t=84495
they are around $130.
emery cloth works heaps better for polishing ss than sandpaper.
Some of that bathroom polish for sinks andcopper taps and a scourer work really well aswell.
I prefer 16" of over hang+, dont know how you can hit anything with that
Phil,
Do you have to sand with 600 grit, 1200grit etc for the finish on your guns or does it come up good enough with thin coats.
I tried getting some here, it is near impossible and will cost too much so is there anything else you can recommend.
phil, this epoxy is made for wooden boat hulls. It does penetrate into the wood but not much.
It is not some epoxy i have made up myself from a gluing epoxy and thinners. I dont put epoxy over the top, I use varnish as epoxy yellows unless it has additives (I am aware of your product, tried to get some sent over here was unsuccessful).
The only problem with the varnish is you cant sand it, I am yet to get a good enough finish but it is UV protectant and very hard. I put one or two more coats of the penetrating epoxy over the top and sand back and redo when it gets scratched. (most of my diving is in surging water around headlands so guns get hammered).
Penetrating epoxy is great to use for a finish, only problem is it has no UV protection.
I think Phils post about not using penetrating epoxy was for actually gluing up stocks not finishing them.
Most products say to apply the first coat thinned.
This is what I have used on the guns I have just finished making.
8 coats of everdure (evedure is a penetrating epoxy available in australia, not sure if you can get it in the US). It is very thin and easy to apply with a glossy finish.
4-5 coats of marine varnish. this is high gloss but dulls when sanded, can be buffed back to gloss but takes to long to sand with 600 and then 1200 then 1600
the fina 2l coats is penetrating epoxy.
the penetrating epoxy does yellow but takes along time as all the under layers are protected by the varnish.
When the top layer scratches I sand it back to the varnish and wipe another coat of penetrating epoxy over.
soon enough I will find away to gloss the marine varnish and then I can do away with the top coats.
To stop the epoxy and varnish going off between coats I put it in the freezer
Rich,
Nice handle. I am working on something similar, im a bit more lazier than you so im just going to get a neptonics handle minus top mouting plate and cut the outside off.
Have you thought about putting a figured cap on top of the blank to cover the screw hole?
Should look good when it is done.
yea I find keeping all guns with the same overhang helps.
to short and shoots high, too long shoots low.
hi,
Im just wondering what shaft over hang everyone uses?
I use 40cm of overhang.
For a 100 gun I would use a 150 shaft.
For a 110 I would use a 160 shaft.
As 10cms is lost in the muzzle and mech.
Would be interesting to hear others opinions and what they use.
do you find 1 or 2" difference makes much difference?
Most of our shafts go up by 10cm some by 5cm.
maybe put an old thong (not a g string thong a flip flop) under your wetsuit or a piece of foam.
Sorry, I worded that post wrong. Im only after the BASIK, ASEGAI and Century handles not the guns
Doesnt have to be in America, can be anywhere but cheapest place in america would also be great
Does anyone know the cheapest place in America to get the picasso BASIK, ASEGAI and century?
Anyone know where there are some glass reinforced basiks?
Gun looks nice.
Personally I reckon in this style of gun the riffe/undersee etc mechs look better than the square ones.
Is there anything other than glue holding the handle on?
Metalin, when you say change the length of shaft are you talking about open or closed tracks.
I couldnt imagine all of my guns having different overhang, I aim off the tip of the shaft and if I use a smaller shaft it goes high, longer shaft it shoots low. I tend to use 40mm overhang. So for a 110cm gun I use a 160 long shaft.
An option for tight mechs that fray line is to tie a loop of 1.7mm dyneema to the shaft and then join your mono to that. The dyneema outer protects it from the fraying.
Hi,
I'm looking for a source for euro handles.
Does anyone know the cheapest place to buy handles like the Cressi comanche, merou, picasso century, demka etc
Will consider anything even copies so long as they are good.
Also what is your Favourite muzzle for max of 2 bands.
What muzzles do you use for comps?
Thanks
