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Old 09-11-2017, 11:05 PM #21
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HAMAKUA-PASIFIKA WATERMAN
 
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Anyone familiar with hunting Hawaii will appreciate these stringers...need I say more? Water was clean and super clear which made for the perfect conditions for testing the longer version of this travel gun. Most shots were taken at max range as is pretty common with these variety of Hawaiian fish. Gun performed great.

IMG 0400

IMG 0419

IMG 0422

IMG 0431

IMG 0436

IMG 0445
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HUI KOA KAI O HAMAKUA
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Last edited by makoa; 09-12-2017 at 01:41 PM.
Old 09-18-2017, 07:26 PM #22
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HAMAKUA-PASIFIKA WATERMAN
 
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After testing set ups on this gun I've finally gotten it set up exactly the way I want. The long version measures 142 cm from end of 3 band Muzzle to trigger mech. The band pull from band slots to respective fin tabs are 128 cm at 380% stretch of Speardiver's "no hole" 14 mm band material. The only 3 shark fin tabbed euro shafts that I could find in 160 cm x 7.5 mm was from Benthic and are Salvimar. The rest tab really helps on this length of gun and tight bands to get the gun chest loaded. Why don't more manufacturers produce 3 fin tabbed euro shafts?! These are stainless but I would like to see the stronger spring steel shafts in that configuration. The smallest version of this gun measures 80 cm from tip of roller muzzle to the trigger mech. The actual band pull from rollers to first tab is 65 cm. Again, rigged with Speardiver no-hole 14 mm bands.

IMG 0539

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If I could get a steady supply of the Speardiver no-hole 14 mm rubber and 3 fin tabbed euro shafts x7.5 mm in spring steel I would be stoked.


IMG 0543
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HUI KOA KAI O HAMAKUA
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E MALAMA I KE KAI

Last edited by makoa; 09-19-2017 at 10:35 AM.
Old 09-20-2017, 06:10 AM #23
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Is the shooting line you're using the "Aussie stiff dyneema"? I won't be so sure to crimp it as it probably slides off. You better try the Rob Allen knot. It's on YouTube.
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Old 09-20-2017, 10:05 AM #24
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Yes, it's the 1.9 mm Aussie spectra. I use the 1.7 for tying wishbones. I use the Rob Allen Knot on all of my connections, but started crimping the line at the shaft after reading some technical testing stuff on another forum by the "pool testing guy". The stiff spectra I'm using burns into a very hard stub that holds firm from slipping out of knots or crimps. I've had good results with these crimps and line not slipping. I like how the crimps make a smoother profile than a knot so causes less disturbance in the water and flight path of the shaft...not that with my simple minded level of shooting it matters all that much!

IMG 3291

IMG 3292

The knot I used to use to tie the line on the shaft is the bowline. That knot is strong and never slips.( see below reply with pic)
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Old 09-20-2017, 10:07 AM #25
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IMG 3293
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Old 09-20-2017, 10:19 AM #26
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Here's a technical question I'm curious about:

How do you prefer to load your bands? From front band slot (muzzle end) to the first tab, then second band slot to second tab, then last band slot (closest to trigger end) to last tab (closest to trigger mech)... or last band (closest to the trigger end) to first tab, then second band (middle) to second tab (middle) then first band (closest to muzzle end) to last tab (closest to trigger mech)? I've used both, but prefer now to tie my bands in a consistent measurement and load as first described. I think the band pull ends up more consistent and even?

Just curious.
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