65" wahoo toothpick

    Gun is done. Here are some shots while pool testing.


    The ones that are hard to figure out are of the target on the first shot with 1 band and the first shot with 3 bands - both shots are from about 20 feet (from my hand) shot one handed. The 9/32" shaft is the dark thing and the bright white thing is the bull's eye. You could say it shoots well.


    It handles beautifully in the water.


    It is setup with 3 TIGHT 15mm bands, and it does kick but not in a way that affects accuracy.


    The total weight is right at 7.0 pounds.
    The total length is 66 inches.
    The distance from the front muzzle hole to the back fin is 58 inches.
    The distance from the back of the handle to the butt is 9 inches.
    It still has enough buoyancy to float a reel.


    Got to get all this documented so that I can remember how to make another one for myself.

    Congrats.


    What kind of diameter is 15mm ( bands), is it standard?


    What is that bright white thing which is supposed to be the bullseye? It looks tiny as it's only a little bigger than the diameter of the shaft.

    Thanks, do you think making the line release screw in over the muzzle slots it would make it stronger than the current setup. Not being critical justs thinking out loud. Beautiful work!

    It would, but there are 5 wraps of carbon in that area, which allowed me to cut the slots without sweating the strength. Also, due to the shape, the line anchor plate would have needed to be curved, and worse the recess for it would have had to be curved while maintaining a constant depth - major PITA.

    I vote that he should sell them or put together a tutorial that would show us challenged folks how to make them.

    I know that was a joke, but let me get take notes and get a little more prepared and I'm sure I'll have a few questions.

    Rolling up multiple layers from a single wetted out sheet of fabric is an easy, fast, and less expensive way to build thickness on something long and slender, provided you don't mind a visible longitudinal seam. You can sand it smooth after curing, but it will probably still be visible.


    The sleeves are more expensive, but do not leave a seam. So they work well for an outermost layer, or like Griswold did, to build thickness in smaller areas like a muzzle or trigge mech. They also expand and contract to fit a range of diameters (like the old "Chinese finger cuffs" toy), so they can easily be applied to a tapered shape.

    Quote from Tin Man

    Rolling up multiple layers from a single wetted out sheet of fabric is an easy, fast, and less expensive way to build thickness on something long and slender, provided you don't mind a visible longitudinal seam. You can sand it smooth after curing, but it will probably still be visible.


    The sleeves are more expensive, but do not leave a seam. So they work well for an outermost layer, or like Griswold did, to build thickness in smaller areas like a muzzle or trigge mech. They also expand and contract to fit a range of diameters (like the old "Chinese finger cuffs" toy), so they can easily be applied to a tapered shape.


    I always wondered about this. I figured that the fabric/sleeves would crease or fold in certain spots of different diameters.

    Edited once, last by Toledo ().

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