Pinch weights rubber coated?

  • This is something that popped in my head this morning.
    "Tin Man" have you ever tried applying some sort of rubber coating to the weights (rino liner or something of the sorts)? To make them more like the rubber coated weights.


    The reason I bring this up is because we use them on rubber belts correct? We use rubber belts for there non-slip properties? But when you apply a roll/a lot of lead weights you lose those non-slip properties that we seem to enjoy.


    Purpose - It would be ecstatically pleasing and it will keep the non-slip properties of using a rubber belt. .


    Do others see this as an issue/ or have any ideas on how some sort of rubber coating may be applied?

  • I previously attempted this with plastidip. I didn't like the results as it didn't go on evenly. Rhinoliner is not a good option, it's too thin of a coating and has too much texture.


    I gave up on this idea because I wanted it in the first place for cosmetic reasons. You bring up a good point about belt slippage. I'd love to find a solution. I'm thinking of simply gluing a piece of bicycle inner tubing to the back of every weight. I suspect this will come off eventually or maybe pretty quickly. I'll have some of the shrink tubing left over from covering the pneumatic that I could try around the weights. That material however is pretty slippery too. What would be the best glue for rubber to lead?

  • The main reason that I have not explored using a rubber coating is because the thickness of the rubber would have to be considered in designing the belt slot to keep the "pinch" working properly. I would have to make a dedicated mold, and then would have to apply the rubber coating in a manner that resulted in very consistant thickness. Also, a rubber coating inside the belt slot, rubbing against a rubber belt, may make the weight harder to slide, even when the belt is stretched. Not saying that it can't be done, just that it is more then I have been willing to explore so far. If anyone else is successful, I would love to hear about it.


    Paint, if only for aesthetic purposes, is usually less than 0.010" thick, and so would not affect the fit of the weights.

  • I was thinking that you wouldn’t allow the non-slip to enter the slot to not have to make changes to the original mold.


    Some solution I think may work are
    -skid –tex can be added to any paint color, but I’m not sure how long paint will hold on to the lead)
    -also there’s this powder at home-depot it’s white (no not that type of white powder) it comes in a small 4”x 5” bag you add it to a can of paint to make the paint non-slip. I used it on commercial flooring and two years later it’s still holding up. .if anyone swings by home depot check it out. I’ll pass by tomorrow and try and find it. . .

  • Here are a couple more pics of the original wooden model, showing why they are called "pinch" weights. The inside of the belt slot is hourglassed on the top and bottom. When the belt is stretched, it gets thinner, and the weight is easily moved. When the belt is relaxed, it expands, locking itself securely within the slot through the weight.


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