Partially enclosed is safer. This way the line cannot skip off the reel and wrap around the arbor which can also lock it up.
Post 18 can be susceptible. In the third pic there is a small space between the spool and housing. The dentex is real thick there so it goes into the housing.
Any thoughts on the spool being partially enclosed (like Greekdiver's post 18), or open (like post 17)?
I Beach dive with my wood gun in my post and sand in the shore brake was I issue with the enclosed Sporasub
reels I've used. My reel is made without handles or knobs that can be snagged by loose line. I also factor in
the wt as mass on the launch platform.
I have found reels are just a tool not a religion of good and bad.When I started blue water hunting 35 years ago I used a big Riffe with spool lock trigger latch, most of my friends would gut the reel to prevent lockup.
I found the lock to be the hot setup for big Pargo in Mex, I would rig my 40'' gun with one wrap of cable and
horse the pargo away from the cave door before I would free the spool on the way back to the surface.
At the end of the day reels are just like golf clubs. 
Cheers, Don
Tin Man,
What is the best way to make the reel as light as possible?
I would guess that you could either use minimal amounts of strong (but heavier) materials, or use larger pieces of materials that are closer to neutral buoyancy. Not to mince words, but neutrally buoyant is more important than "light", right? Do we really care about how much it weighs in air, as long as it is neutral in water? Provided of course that it doesn't get so large as to be bulky.
Just some quick numbers:
The density of aluminum is 0.1 lbs/cubic inch. Delrin is about 0.055, solid carbon fiber about 0.058 (for my low tech efforts), and UHMW about 0.034.
Subtract the density of seawater (about 0.037) to get the effective density for each material when submerged. Of course the mass is still there (in terms of tracking resistance or recoil absorbtion), even if it feels neutral in water.
I think Davie and i looked at that reel as the EXPO here in Ft. Lauderdale. It looked built well and reeled nice and smooth. I think it was very heavy though.
Weight is not an issue as far as the density is less than 1. That means that will be buoyant in the water.
If my name was Tin Man I would use Ti and a machine tool finish.;):D
I would post images of mine but it lives in the middle of the Sea of Cortez in 1200' of H20.:(
Don
Until this past year I was a reel junkie. I would use a reel for every type of fish except wahoo and tuna. What happened??? I lost a gun to a Permit I shot in 80 ft of water. My shooting line got caught in the bands and I could not horse the fish to the surface, so I let go of my favorite Wong gun never to be seen again. A couple of weeks later I shoot a 40 lb Kingfish and my shooting line gets caught in the bands on my 140 Aimrite. Fortinatley the mono cut the bands and I landed the King. Anyway, I am kinda not liking reels except when hunting Kelp, Bridges, or Oil Rigs.
Prior to my reel negativity I wanted to design and produce a better reel. I wanted one that would hold 300 feet of 2mm line. It would be a horizontal mount and have a fast line retrevial. I invisioned a biggger diameter reel with a lower profile. It would have a stainless shaft and base, but everything else would be some type of plastic/carbon.
If somebody comes up with a kick ass design, I might be inclined to fund production.
What do you think caused the line to get stuck on the bands? Is it the reel line or mono getting stuck on the bands? I have yet to experience this.
What do you think caused the line to get stuck on the bands? Is it the reel line or mono getting stuck on the bands? I have yet to experience this.
I will start a new thread on this subject.
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