Gluing fin rails

    I have tried gluing fin rails on twice. The first was one was an abomination and I just gave up on it. The second time I managed to get it done but it was extremely difficult and time consuming. It also looks like hammered dog crap, but it will get the job done.


    I was hoping that some of you(cough, cough DAN) may be able to provide some tips on gluing fin rails and doing a nice clean installation.

    Water channeling. The problem I am having is getting the rail to lay down flat and even, especially toward the tips where the blade gets thinner, without getting glue all over the place.

    Those are tricky for me too, and it's hard to get it perfect. You have to be patient and work slowly. First use the right glue; Cyanoacrylate which is most instant glues like krazyglue. I prefer this loctite because of the fine nozzle which is convenient for application in tight spaces.




    Measure the wide rail and cut to length. Position on the blade edge. Put one small drop of glue under the rail at each end on each side of the blade. Now you'll have the rail steady in the right position. Start on one side of the blade lifting the rubber and applying glue in 3-4" sections. Apply very little glue, I put down a row of drops rather than a continuous line. Have a paper towel ready. Push the rubber down with a finger and slide the finger along the section being glued. This will squeeze out excess glue, wipe it down with the paper towel in a quick motion alongside the rail, otherwise the paper will get glued to the blade. The moment excess glue is removed the rubber will bond to the blade. Keep working section by section until you finish one side, then do the next.


    As you can see there's no trick to it, it's just tedious, and doesn't come out perfect. But it will hold. Instant glue is temperamental and you have to develop a feel for it, this comes after gluing a few blades. I have a better/faster system for the small tendon rails, they're easier to work with.


    I'd love to find out how to glue water channeling rails on in a more efficient manner. I'm willing to reward someone who provides me this information with gear. These are the rails we're talking about.


    Thanks Dan. Great explanation. I can see now, my problem was that I was trying to glue the whole thing at once. That actually worked for the tendon rails as the blade is much thicker back there and these sections of rail seem to want to naturally "close" on their own. The water channeling rails seem to want to open up.

    Going to give it another shot on the old pair of FG blades I gave up on.

    JOHN The glue dries fast speed for 30 o 50 seconds and do it well is the most important, do it with cold temperature.
    because the dry cianolitico from 7 º C. is better to have it in the refrigerator before applying so gives more working time
    screws first, then a lateral side of the gums and then the other side, immediately afterwards wrap or brown packaging tape Transparent wide.
    need two tubes,

    John, it also depends on the geometry of the wide rails you're trying to glue. I had rails in the past that made gluing almost impossible because of this tendency to open up and lift off the surface of the blade, as well as the hardness of the rubber, the harder more plastic like it is the worse it bonds. The rails I have in the store now are the right hardness and by comparison easy to glue on.

    DAN lfootpocket you have to be adapted to the blades that we want to, because of each other varies the width of the blades, the omer are more narrow, much wider Beuchat, shovels manufactured happens as though the standart, so it is important to buy appropriate to the foot pocket shovels we have, and vice versa, but should be adapted
    I see that you store the blades are in line with the full foot.
    ya veo que tu tienda las palas son en concordancia con los calzantes. ejpl

    :frustrated1::blush: esto del idioma es un rollo :( Dan se llaman guias canalizadoras
    well at least we know two things more ajajejej :D



    bI put this theme good to meet you before so forgive the confusion of the translation
    explained the issue is here Ducting profiles put on fins = duck = blades - Spearboard Spearfishing Community



    Today I bought these profiles fins and channels to easily be bought two pieces, a bottle of glue for cianolitico flexible plastic, scissors and clothespins
    so also has the cianolit sun hardens and dries more quickly, I have it in the refrigerator and hardening from the temperature 7º C of, the steps in the photos.
    From 2 pieces of 60 ctms a shovel, take out 4 pieces ctms 30 -30 for the two blades, a fin or blade profile are 1'20 ctms channeler, only as far as fixing t
    he nerve ends.For fins or blades carbon fiber and glass fiber.


    For fins or blades that do not bear ducting profiles increases performance by 20%.



    . —


    Quote from japsw

    Las guias de agua o "canales" no los tendon de el foot pocket


    Gracias por el apunte;)

    2 Suggestions that may make life easier:


    1. Use a 10cc syringe and 18g or 22g needle to apply the glue. You will be able to do it w/ more control and less waste that the regular package.


    2. You could cut a section of thin walled PVC longitudinally and use it to apply pressure as you glue proximal to distal on the blade. Pressure would be determined by the diameter of the PVC and the width of the cut, but you could just slide it down as you glued it

    Dan Hill , that does not drip or run off the glue, it is best to use this product that is flexible for smooth surfaces will not drip, the other is porous Gel does not drip.

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