first time builder...teach me.

    Hey fella's,


    I've been spearfishing key west for about a year now. My JBL 40 has done me well, but Its time to upgrade. I shopped around for a gun, and didn't really fall in love with anything production. after seeing some work from a local gun builder (impaler spearguns) I decided I have to build.


    Like I said, I live in key west. I don't have the resources to build down here, but I have access to a complete wood shop back in Michigan. I'm going to keep collecting parts until I can make it home, then try and put it all together that week (minus the blank.) For starters, I ordered some padauk from the local exotic wood depot. The plan is to plane the wood down to half an inch, then laminate 4 across, and one on top. I am going to use a UHMW enclosed track, with a Riffe 9/32" x 57" Hawaiian shaft I picked up locally. I really like the Neptonics tuna mech, and elite handle. I also plan on utilizing (2) 5/8" bands, and some 300# mono. (So far, I own the spear, and some padauk.)


    My only source of information was opinions from a few local guys, and now of course, speardiver, so I am very open to advice or criticism. The guns primary purpose will be around patch reefs, but I don't want to limit myself... I have been having an irresistible urge to try hunting blue water.


    I still have a few questions before I start:
    - First and for most, I am worried about the finish. The gun doesn't need to be a show piece, but I would like it to look professional, and most of all stay water tight. I don't want something that requires a ton of maintenance, and it needs to be durable. I am also worried a coating will alter the dimensions of the slot for the mech, pin holes, etc.
    - Secondly, I have a set of dove tail router bits at the house. does any one have a size, or part number to identify the correct bit for the small 9/32" neptonics UHMW track?
    - Finally, does (2) 5/8" bands, and 300# mono seem appropriate for the size and purpose of the gun? I don't have an overall dimension yet, but like I said... The spear is 57"


    I just realized how I am starting to ramble, so I guess I'll wait and see what SD has to add. if you made it this far, thanks for your patience :thumbsup2:


    -Kyle.

    You are in a good position as you know what you don't know.


    My best advice is to use a two by four to do everything once as practice first.


    Lots of great builders here. Hopefully they chime in too


    One thing you must do.... Post pics of your build :)

    i like to spear fish

    Lots of good build info on here, just have to look around. I personally love woodguy's build and used it A LOT when planning mine. For the finish I too was worried about the coating filling the holes and making them too small etc etc. But its not an issue if you mix up some penetrating epoxy. Just be sure to allow ample time (a week or more) in between coats so that everything fully cures. I did two coats of penetrating epoxy to make sure every absorbent inch was saturated, followed by additional un-thinned epoxy coats. You can wetsand after the first couple coat and then again when its done if you want to make it look all fancy. The uhmw track now fits snuggly. Woodguy mentions this in his thread but only secure the track with one screw near the mech, when the stuff gets warm (like sits in your car) it elongates about 1/4". Because of this make sure you cut it to length at room temperature, if it sits in your car all day at work and then you go home to cut it, it will shrink once it's cool and look funny in the gun. I would recommend opening up the last 3 inches of the uhmw (again it's been discussed in several threads) just to ease in loading. As far as the router bit I believe it's specified on the neptonics site and can be ordered fairly cheaply online, I was unable to find one at the local home depot, lowes, etc.


    2 5/8 bands will be plenty, if your feeling strong a couple of Dan's small ID bands cut short will give you a good workout. 300lb mono seems worthwhile, I personally use 200 on my reef gun and 400 on my BW build. You need to decide whether you want a reel or a float and floatline, it's all personal preference. Unfortunately there is no perfect length gun for both reef and BW hunting BUT a 120-130cm band stretch gun would be the middle grounds between the two IMO. I believe the shaft on my BW build is 63" plus sliptip and about 145cm band stretch so your 57 (depending on shaft overhang - again personal preference) should land you in the 120-130 range. A 9/32 shaft seems a bit light for BW hunting and might end up looking like a pretzel, maybe buy a second 9/32 shaft with a sliptip in the future for when you feel like venturing offshore. I hope this helps and have fun with it. We love gun porn so don't be shy with the camera.

    If you're starting with a 57" spear including flopper, you're probably going to end up with a gun around 55- 60", depending on where you put the trigger mech and how much overhang you prefer. You could use a Neptonics reef mech if you're only using 2- 5/8 bands, but I would suggest using the tuna mech and building the gun for 3 bands. You could use 2 most of the time, but could add the 3rd if you had an opportunity to hunt something that required shooting longer distances. There is no single gun for all situations, but if you're building a gun that long you might as well build in the capability for 3 bands. Something to think about. I would also consider making your second shaft a 5/16". If you power up to 3 bands you might like it better.

    The most difficult part about installing a side line release mech like a Neptonics is matching up the line release. My recommendation is to avoid the hassle and use a top line release trigger mech like this one from Speardiver Trigger Mechanism TLR - FreediveStore.com Making room for the line release arm is a cinch, and the system works flawlessly. It's also automatically resetting, meaning you don't have to position the line release before engaging the shaft in the mech, the shaft entering the mech will set the line release. This mech is available for US and euro shafts. There's also a reverse version if you want to gain a couple of inches of band stretch without making the gun longer Trigger Mechanism Reverse - FreediveStore.com


    These mechs will easily take 4 16mm bands, and at $60 are a great value. Don't over engineer the gun with a mech way more robust than you need thinking it's going to make the gun better somehow.

    Dan, I like the simplicity of the top release, I'll definitely take that into consideration. The reverse mechanism seems like a pretty good idea as well, but it's got me thinking. As I start shortening the gun, and moving more weight to the rear, how will that effect the balance of the gun? I've heard the term ballasting tossed around a few times. What is the proper way to ensure your gun is balanced properly?


    You also mentioned gaining a few extra inches on the bands... When I make my bands, how do I know how long to make them? is there a ratio I should be shooting for, static vs. loaded?


    Quote

    These mechs will easily take 4 16mm bands, and at $60 are a great value. Don't over engineer the gun with a mech way more robust than you need thinking it's going to make the gun better somehow


    I understand your logic here. To be honest, I was eyeing the tuna mech for the simple reason that I am lacking in tools to mortise a square pocket for the mech.

    Edited once, last by sheff ().

    There is a lot of useful info that can be found here:


    http://spearfishing.world/spea…3-gun-building-101-a.html


    I would suggest you come up with a very well defined idea of what you want the gun to be able to do. No gun can do everything. This will give you a better idea of what components and dimensions you will need.


    Also after reading through some of the threads in the gun building thread you will get a better idea of what tools you will need. As for the finish the quality of your work will come from how well you prep your work. More time and effort will make more of a difference than a nice set of tools.


    Most importantly take your time. Dont rush and dont force anything that doesnt feel right. Measure twice and cut once and youll be fine.


    I chiseled my pocket square, it's easy to do just takes a little bit of time.

    Quote from Dan

    I've always chiseled pockets for mechs and handles. I'm comfortable doing it this way. Squaring the corners would be a cinch.


    https://spearfishing.world/ima…dHandleConstruction03.jpg


    Nice fit Dan!


    A chisel in the hands of a master is a deadly accurate and useful tool. I always advise people with no Chisel experience to practice on scrap wood first. I have been making my band slots with a Forster bit drilled through for each band position, then a quick clean up of the remnant wood with a sharp chisel. Seems faster and less risky then a router.

    Dustan Baker

    well, I pulled the trigger on some parts. I'll get pictures up once I start cutting.






    I'll have enough extra padauk to make a second blank if anyone is interested.

    Edited once, last by sheff ().

    The trigger is too long for my set-up. anyone see a problem with me shortening it with an angle grinder? I don't know much about stainless metals.

    couldn't you just leave more wood between the bottom of the trigger mech and the handle? If not, then you should be able to grind it down and then polish smooth, it is tough stuff so depending on your tools it may take some time.

    Quote from sheff

    The trigger is too long for my set-up. anyone see a problem with me shortening it with an angle grinder? I don't know much about stainless metals.


    With the gun as wide and high as you are making, make the handle as close to the mech pocket as practical, say 3/16" or so for a handle over mech gun. That will minimize muzzle jump as much as the mass of the gun will. Grinding the trigger with a bench or side grinder is done all the time- just go easy and cool the trigger from time to time as you go to keep from discoloring

    Edited once, last by Wood Guy: added text about grinding ().

    Quote from LunkerBuster

    Looks great. Looks wide, is it? or just the camera


    yes, it is wide. It still needs to be cut down to final width, but it will be set to match the butt of a Riffe Euro. just under 2".


    this is pretty close to final dimensions:


    Quote from Wood Guy

    With the gun as wide and high as you are making, make the handle as close to the mech pocket as practical, say 3/16" or so for a handle over mech gun. That will minimize muzzle jump as much as the mass of the gun will. Grinding the trigger with a bench or side grinder is done all the time- just go easy and cool the trigger from time to time as you go to keep from discoloring


    I plan on grinding the trigger down roughly half an inch. the mechanism will be much lower than shown in the picture. Is there such thing as being too low? For instance, if the mechanism was touching the grip? I'm trying to keep the gun as short as possible (vertically.) The mechanism is 1" tall, and the base of the grip, which I plan on flush mounting, is about 1/4".

    Edited 2 times, last by sheff ().

    The bottom of the mech needs to clear the top of the handle frame when the mech fires, so you need enough space for any springs or anything that hangs down below the mech. Other than that, the top of the handle frame can be as close to the bottom of the mech as you want. You might have to shape the blank behind the handle for clearance for your forearm, but with a rear handle that's easy enough.

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