On my gun I did individual holes but a round-over bit for a router works well for the band holes. I actually put the bit in a drill press and did each hole. It worked pretty well.
South Florida Bluewater Build.
-
-
I meant I have ready made line guides of different shapes, you won't need to polish those. But if you prefer to fab your own, I probably have a piece of stainless lying around.
-
in my opinion the muzzle plate looks better
-
you can fab your own but most likely you would spent more on the cobalt drill bits needed to drill stainless . the only reason i made mine is because i already had all the tools
-
you can fab your own but most likely you would spent more on the cobalt drill bits needed to drill stainless . the only reason i made mine is because i already had all the tools
I agree the plates look better. The pin doesnt look as clean since its usually not perpendicular to anything.
I have a set of nice cobalt bits and a drill press etc but making my own would be a huge pain in the ass. So I am glad to pick a premade one up from Dan.
-
Did the recess on the handle this morning before work. I was most worried about this step but it ended up being easy with some tape guides and my router tables fence. Its a perfect fit.
The biggest hold my breath operation Ive got left to do is drill the pin holes. After that I just need to round and sand and attach all the hardware.
How do you guys treat screw holes on your guns? Nothing? Silicone? Epoxy?
-
Penetrating epoxy. You cut the butt really short.
-
The line release slot, not too wide?
-
The line release is a tight fit in the mech, and seems to function much much better free and clear of wood. I had the line release slot just a bit wider then the hook. But it kept sticking inside and binding up before epoxy even. I don't want the release to be lost into the gun because it sticks. And have me fumbling with fat gloves trying to pull it out while fish swim by. I may even dremel a recess to get a finger in just to be sure. I can get it out if that happens. Its also going to be lined with more black epoxy so I gave it some extra room.
Also I woke up today to my 205 hardener tipped spilled. was like a 15$ puddle on the floor.
Im suprised it all leaked from the pump cap between the threads. -
Shitty about the hardener but the gun looks great. The bottom line release is awesome and the handle really looks great in the gun
-
after seeing the photo , i think you should really recess the line release slot . the last thing you want is to be fighting with your line release in the water . Does it protrude out enough to easily load the shooting line ?
-
after seeing the photo , i think you should really recess the line release slot . the last thing you want is to be fighting with your line release in the water . Does it protrude out enough to easily load the shooting line ?
It protrudes out plenty and has a nice curve to it when its down. It will hold the line well. The only possible issue is how it goes up flush into the gun. A small finger tip sized recess should make that impossible though.
-
It protrudes out plenty and has a nice curve to it when its down. It will hold the line well. The only possible issue is how it goes up flush into the gun. A small finger tip sized recess should make that impossible though.
I just went on FreediveStore,com and looked at the mech. Could you drill a small hole in the top of the release
slot wood and install a small SS coil spring just long enough to hold the hook slightly out from the wood?
Sorry about your 205, if you lived closer I would gift you some.
Cheers, Don -
I just went on FreediveStore,com and looked at the mech. Could you drill a small hole in the top of the release
slot wood and install a small SS coil spring just long enough to hold the hook slightly out from the wood?
Sorry about your 205, if you lived closer I would gift you some.
Cheers, DonDont think its necessary. With the slot wide enough there is absolutely no sticking or binding it falls down like a pendulum. Since the gun will always be loaded facing up this makes it act like an auto reset. I was considering the finger slot is only because I saw what would happen if it did stick. But im pretty confident that gravity will do its job here. A tiny recess will ensure that if there is some kind of problem because I got sand in the gun or something I can still pull it out.
-
The BLR trigger mechanism line release should not be a tight fit in the mech housing, it should move freely as you see in this vid. It's not auto resetting, which means you will have to hold the gun right side up, for it to fall into the down position on its own, and allow loading the shaft. For this it needs free movement.
I recommend cutting the line release slot such that it doesn't allow the line release to go in all the way. In the release position it should still stick out about 1/4", to allow easy manual resetting if needed, it will still release the line no problem. Also I'd square the corners/walls of the line release slot, the rounded profile may act like a wedge and cause it to stick.
Speardiver bottom line releae speargun trigger mechanism - YouTube
-
Wow that's a beefy looking mech.
Cheers, Don
-
Dan i have to say that is one good looking mech
-
Thanks Dan. I don't mean tight. I mean it fits with good tolerances around the pin. So doesn't rely on the pocket tolerances to keep straight. I came to most of those conclusions myself and with talking with you minus it being able to stick out some. I was worried it might catch.
This mech is definitely Georgous and robust. Even the stuff inside is polished. It also engages the spear amazingly smoothly.
Pinned the mech at lunch. Somehow I did it right. I think little speargun fairies grabbed my arms an guided me. I also followed wood guys method.
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member to leave a comment.