I did it. Bill please keep posting here, I'll copy the pertinent posts to the other thread.
I love that mech BTW. Are you going to use the auto resetting line release function of this mech? To me that was the trickiest thing to get right. I had play with the slot and reshape the line release.
PARGO
Dude you are freaking fast. I saw the new thread and i was like woaaaaaa my thread got hacked:laughing3:. Good one, now all the wood lovers can take a peek at the Wood Guy / Tin Man masterpiece;). :thumbsup2:
Hopefully I'll have some more to post tomorrow. I need to mount that funky handle before Alvin wets himself!!! Just kidding, Amigo!!
l
:laughing2::rofl: Damn i hate when people can read me that easy:D, I got a picture from Tin Man showing the last product onthe handle, And like you said the colors were not as vivid making it even better, I love my custom handle. It came out as planned. Couple of friends back home understood why the red color on the handle. Though underwater is cover by your hand, if i ever let go of the wood, it will surface and the red and white color will be easier to spot. Some friends back home have lost their guns like that after releasing the wood when a big fish take the breakaway out.:rolleyes1:. Plus this handle brakes all the conventional models outthere. Making it one of a kind:thumbsup2:
Hey Alvin,
I got a good bit more done this weekend.
First, I finished the line release. I measured where in the blank the slot needed to be, then how thick the release lever was. Then, I cut the slot.
The mechanisn Josh sent was not the automatic line reset one, so I'll install the manual version and use Tin Man's design for a resetting feature on the pin that goes through the lever. I'll have to get a little tension spring so I'll do that later.
While I had the blank in the mill, I drilled the float line hole and relieved the edges with a 1/4" roundover router bit. Then, I moved to the muzzle end of the blank and cut the band slot. I like to use my spiral down cut router bit (1/4", then finish the ends with a 1/2" end mill.
Next post, the long awaited handle!!
Ok Alvin, the long awaited Tin Man Handle!
I wanted the handle as high in the blank as possible, so I measured down from the top and allowed 1/4" of wood between the bottom of the trigger mech and the top of the handle. Then I cut the pocket for the handle frame with the 1/4" downcut router bit. It looks deep but that's because I haven't removed the excess wood yet. I'll do that when I shape the blank.
That is definitely a "one-of-a-kind-handle", Alvin!!
Next, I'll taper the blank. The blank is 2" wide x 1.75" high. Alvin wanted the muzzle to be 1.75 wide x 1.5 high. I ended up with the muzzle being 1-5/8 wide x 1.5" high after tapering. Since we weren't taking too much off I used my joiner rather than the table saw. More control that way and the further along you get the more you have at risk if you screw things up.
Next post will show the shooting line anchor pocket and the round over of the edges.
Once the blank is tapered, the shooting line anchor can be installed. I used a 1/2" end mill to route the pocket for the Neptonics line anchor.
Now comes the part that, in my opinion, starts making the blank looking like a gun- the round over of the edges. I went with a 1/2" roundover on top and, because of the band slot location, a 1/4" round over on the bottom.
In the next posts I'll finish shaping the muzzle nose, cut the butt to length, and remove the excess wood from below the handle flange. Then I'll cut the wishbone slot and make a piece to go in the slot, and install support screws to reinforce the band slot. Then all that will be left will be to ballast the gun out at the dock, and finish sand it and apply oil.
Looking more and more like a real shooting stick, Alvin.
I am stoked to see that fine piece of equipment Alvin!! I am stoked for you bro. Wood guy, That gun´s sweet as rain.
How many bands is going to handle? Could you please specify the specs of the gun? I mean lenght, band-7shaft configuration, and weight? Thank you
Bill, you have me concerned when you say the mech Josh sent wasn't the auto resetting one. Are you saying it's missing the little tab on the bottom? I just ordered a couple of Neptonics mechs, I hope this is not the case. I thought initially you're going to have a problem with installing the mech auto line release because of the thickness of the stock. Which is it?
When you talk about an end mill is it used with the drill press? A sort of specialized drill bit? Do you slide the stock under it as it's cutting?
Core, if still possible I recommend to you to go with a 1/2" round over on the bottom as well. The stock is pretty big as it is and it will make a marked difference in comfort when carrying it for extended periods of time.
Core, if still possible I recommend to you to go with a 1/2" round over on the bottom as well. The stock is pretty big as it is and it will make a marked difference in comfort when carrying it for extended periods of time.
That is the idea pargo. But he did it like that for me. So i can see the results and then decide how it will look better. Is better to do 1/4" then if you dont like it go 1/2". But cant back wards. It looks heavy because all the excess that needs to be removed.
Bill:
Good work. I love when he called Tin Man's Handle , "The funky one".:laughing3:. He knows that is a weird colorfull handle:D. We will talk a little more. But i agree it looks like the front will look better with a 1/2" round over. It will look more like an euro. I dont know because of the band hole location. would be possible, or wil it affect the muzle of the gun. So far because it looks bulky is hard to imagine the end results on it. But this gun is so far looking fine and i like it. Even if the trigger is not the one with the auto release, i know they will make it automatic.:D
You know you cant contain this 2 McGuyver builders. Everytime you put a challenge in front of them. They always come up with something.
Possibly start the 1/2" radius just rearward of the band slot, and maintain the 1/4" radius forward? That would give the muzzle a slightly squared off look, and the rest of the gun a more rounded look.
I'm only estimating from the pics, but I don't think that you want a larger radius on the thin section under the band slot.
Pargo,
The neptonics mech I received does NOT have the little tab for the auto resetting feature.
The end mill is a cutter for a milling machine. If I'm cutting wood I often just use a chuck rather than a collet. You could use one in a drill press for wood, no problem. Just be sure you get the one that can cut on tha bottom and the side (some leave a little core in the middle and aren't designed to drill, only cut laterally). With the mill you move the table. I know you can get small indexing vices for drill press tables, but they are pretty cheezy unless you pay a good bit for them. They would probably be ok for wood, though. It's really an indexing vice that just clamps to the table on the drill press.
My concern with the 1/2" roundover is the wood around the band slot. Maybe I could use a 1/4" until it got past the band slot then feather into a 1/2".
Damn, I hope I get the mech with the tabs otherwise it will be another week of shipping back and forth.
Bill, so can I just slide the wood around on the drill press table under the bit and achieve decent accuracy or does the bit tend to grab the wood and move it all over the place? Thanks.
wow, but that´s a stout gun anyway, it will handle the 3 5/8´s with ease.
I wouldn't try to slide it around on the table without restraints. You could clamp some guides on the table to restrain it, but without something to hold the work securely it's really not much different from a straight bit in a router table, except you can see what you're doing.
One other caution about using a drill press with any type of bit where you are pushing it sideways.
The chuck on a drill press has a tapered male shank that jams up inside the tapered female spindle. Only friction holds it in place, which is more than enough because the drill press is designed to force downward, and that force keeps the tapered shank solidly in place. Use care if you push sideways on a drill press chuck, because that tapered male piece can work loose and the chuck will fall out.
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