DIY marker buoy

    As per Jim's suggestion I used the grinder to cut a groove in the float. Started out with the belt sander but it was cutting too wide and shallow although it is also feasible. The grinder however leaves a nicer cleaner cut and depth is easier to control. The PVC is used to anchor the bungee which is used as a stopper. The PVC can also be used to let the line out as you loosely grip it with two hands. A mono loop at one end can be used to attach an additional marker such as a flag. The line I used is braided nylon masonry line, 50m is spooled on in the pic.


    Possible improvements:
    1. Using a grinder with a wider wheel to nicely cut a wider groove, allowing thicker line to be used.
    2. A round weight with a hole in the middle that can be stored on the PVC pipe when not in use.


    Here's the cost breakdown:
    Lobster buoy - $3 Boater's world.
    Masonry line - $10 Home Depot. Enough to make three 50m markers
    PVC pipe - $2 Home Depo. Enough to.. well you know.
    2 PVC end caps - $.50 Home Depot.
    Bungee - A couple of $$ per foot at West Marine.
    Mono loop and crimp.
    2lb lead weight - $3 Diver's direct.
    Total cost per float - About $10.


    Nice. Do you think that the 2-lb weight will hold it in a substantial current, or is that not a situation you would use it in?


    Reminds me that I have an idea for a marker buoy that I kind of filed away and never got around to building.

    I don't know. The line is thin enough that it won't add too much drag. Depends on what kind of bottom the weight is placed I suppose. That's just a weight that was lying around, maybe there's a better option.

    Looks good. Make sure the line is braided and not twisted and put a swivel on it. If it is twisted you will get tangles so bad that will take plenty of time to take out.

    Davie Peguero

    Please credit Greekdiver for the invention/contraption. I was merely relaying what he figured out. The handle and bungie is a good idea.


    Greekdiver put like 20 feet of dyneema on the last part of the line for abrasion resistance. The weight easily gets caught up in the reef, but not bad, and we've used 3lbs in some current without issue.

    One other thought. And please remember that the reason I'm pre-occupied with current is because it's a controlling factor where I dive.


    The way the buoy will deploy now, it appears that it will naturally turn perpendicular to the current, which will result in a lot of drag on the buoy. Is there a way to simply loop the line, after the buoy is deployed, so that the buoy will align itself into the current, for less drag?


    Also, how do you retrieve it? Do you do it from in the water, or in the boat? If you do it from in the boat, can you tell me how, because we (me and Wood Guy) have not found what I would call an "elegant" solution. We ususally end up with one guy pulling in the line, and another winding it on the buoy.

    Some smart folks around these parts.
    Anyhow, 2 things I thought about that you guys have touched on: 1) put a clip on the PVC tube end(pointy side of float), this will make that side get pulled down and float "standing up. You can even put something in that PVC cap to weight it down(not a lot) to help it make the turn.
    2) Get a few different size weights and put a mono loop/crimp on them. Then tie a tunaclip with swivel to the end of the line. This way you can switch weights easily(different current), or put 2 on.



    P.S. Dan tremendo YOYO:D

    Here's another option. The groove effectively stops the line from coming off the spool so there's no need for a bungee. If this 2nd version works I'll use a new buoy and cut a slimmer groove, there's no need for it to be that wide. Sliding the float down on the PVC locks the line which was already secure because of the loop. Even a little current should make this float stand up somewhat. Maybe some additional lead ballast in the tip like Ray said would help that. I'm going to try both versions and see if there's something I missed.




    I had thought of moving it for the same reason. The less money spent on stuff the better, right? Great idea. One thing though, how are you going to keep the float from sliding up the PVC?

    It's on there pretty tight in the first place. Also once it slides over the line it makes the fit even tighter. I could use an even thicker line. Apart from all that a final pull on the line through the slot really cinches it all together. The less money the better is right. I can also put this thing together in 15 minutes from stuff available in a couple of stores close to my house.

    Thanks. The swivel is on it, it's between the weight and the line, doesn't show in the pic. The clip I don't think it's necessary. I'd rather have one weight on that's good for different current conditions than switching weights around.

    You know, two of these things back to back would make a nice float. Also, you can make the slot wider to accept a thicker rope.....or floatline..........that's length adjustable.







    I'm just rambling, that'll never work, forget I said anything.

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