Not bad and dinner s ready
Posts by mosaad
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putting polyurethan handles
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pictures below is what you explain?This will be last SS muzzle speargun as i cant see any benefit but cant through the teak just do what i can to fiX without shorten the gun ..
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the new muzzle I cut to solve the crack muzzle idea come from sea sniper
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Same concept for roller it never used so i turn it to be similar to teak sea beam ,one of the worst properties of iroko its more buoyancy than mahogany ,this gun weight 1.5 kg and it need 970 gram to be neutral
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Almost done
3rd coat epoxy still spar varnish -
first coat
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now waiting for coating ,this the most difficult as I had cracked in my previous ASH wood gun ,my worried for the trigger holes how to seal it ! I plan to soak the epoxy coated gun in linseed oil around the trigger area and keep it for couple of days then dry it hope it works ,next build I ll keep larger holes
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weight 1400 gm ,make experiment for a A mahogany specimen coated with epoxy found out lead ration for ballast is 0.52 ,calculation shown I need extra 50 grams to keep it ballast ,as I use long overhang i put the lead in front of trigger
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handle always a headache never got same results each time
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after shaping ,width 50mm to 66mm ,height 39mm to 26 mm ,i m worried due to low thickness ,the steel sheet in the pictures I used it as a spoke shave but don't know what they call it in english I want to order from ebay but not a available its much better to plan your wood and won't break beside sharpening very simple by files
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New gun 2017 made by CNC and manual router beside the manual tools based on BEAM design of teak sea
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my last dive I notice a crack in the end of my gun with SS muzzle ,long time I posted the fabrication procedure ,now it need fix , I don't have clear idea why it cracked but may be due to spear rotation and hitting the exposed SS ,I am thinking to glue a wedge before it but I don't want it to let spear to hit high ,other ideas ?
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just need distance ,I tried 11 and I ll post picture after install
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Hi,
I have question regarding the NEPTONIC REEF trigger ,it s a headache to locate the line release pivot pin ,usually i do the nearest one to trigger body but recently I have a gun 80mm width in belly and in trigger almost 48+ so I need to use the next hole ,my calculation seem it miss something ,release pin will stuck and can't load the shaft in ,attached pictures for both American trigger and euro trigger I have bought year ago and start to assemble it in,appreciate if ideas come on .don't want to buy jig:)
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need to add bilinga wood or opepe
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second notch great result ,last notch feel like rubber slide down from retainer and give kick to make spear go down
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I tried the gun last week I have used the stainless 3 mm bent SS wire as retainer ,spear is salvimar pacific with 3 fins , first try when wishbone on last fin I missed the fish even its very near and feel strong kick on muzzle wishbone actually was long ,second try was in 2 fin shoot was on center of the barracuda didn't feel that kick ,any explanation for that ?
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choosing your timber
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Tu amigo quizás confundió la resina con cola de carpintero expansiva, la foto es COLA POLIURETANO LIQUIDO PU para madera
(hay varios fabricantes)
este adhesivo no necesita catalizador es resistente al agua salada y ambientes marinos, solo hay que limpiar con acetona
las partes a unir.
Te puedo garantizar que se romperá antes la madera, que abrirse por la union, la espuma se quita con una espátula o cúter es muy blanda.http://i67.tinypic.com/2rmb96w.png
I have used poly long time before and gun success but i have to pay more dollar to the planner because no gap or tolerance is allow tight clamp is a must and if not delamination will occur however epoxy can fill any gap with sufficient results .