Adrian's new muzzle

    Both muzzles look great. I'm sure you could sell a bunch at that price.


    How bad is the pain in the arse factor of doing the line anchor that way? I would think that the bending after putting it through the plastic would be hard to get just right.

    I'm getting better at it. I have an idea for a simple miniature bending jig that I think would make it pretty easy. If I end up doing a batch of muzzles, I'll probably take the time to give the jig a try.

    Tin Man--WOW is that muzzle nice:thumbsup2:
    I don't know that much about muzzle designs, but how is the accuracy with your new muzzle?
    Just a question and suggestion, but would the accuracy be improved if there was more material up higher around the shaft?

    Ditto what Hau said. When the design is firm, I'll take two muzzles with the 7mm spike that fit a RA barrel....Dave

    First breathe-up... May 1937

    Marcos has a good point but it doesn't seem to be a problem with Riffe guns or any of the other guns with the band holes on the same line. I think offsetting the band holes would create a problem when making the hole for the kill spike. The only solution would be to make the muzzle beefier. I don't think accuracy is going to be a problem with this muzzle like Pargo said. I'll let you all know how it performs once I get it.

    Unless I make the muzzle larger, I can't lower the rear hole due to the position of the spike, but I could raise the forward hole a little. It will make it off-center of the flatted side, so I think it will look a little out of place. But if you feel there is some performance improvement then I can certainly do it that way.


    Dewasw - Is there a reason why you need a 7mm (0.276") diameter spike? I would prefer to standardize on the 9/32" (0.281") if possible because the stainless steel is a little easier to get.


    Does everyone have the Rob Allen Tuna barrels? That is the one I am using for all my measurements, so if you have a different version, the muzzle might not fit. I'm not saying that I know there to be a difference, just that there might be.

    " Dewasw - Is there a reason why you need a 7mm (0.276") diameter spike?"


    My only reason is I just bought a couple of Power Heads to fit a 7mm shaft and if their actual dimension accomodates your spike I see no problem.


    Is it possible to have the band holes drilled for 5/8's bands and slot to slide the bridle (dynema) through ..........Dave

    First breathe-up... May 1937

    Quote from dewasw

    Is it possible to have the band holes drilled for 5/8's bands and slot to slide the bridle (dynema) through ..........Dave


    I could combine the two holes into a single elongated hole, but I do not think it would be possible to cut a slot to insert the dyneema through. I think that would seriously weaken the bottom half of the muzzle, making it prone to break off.

    For what it's worth, 5/8" band will easily fit in 9/16" holes. Wong muzzles have 1/2" holes and they too work for 5/8" bands though it can take a little soap to get them through. As long as it fits, tighter is better IMHO.

    I'll second that, 5/8 (16mm) bands will fit into 9/16 (14mm) holes, just use a little dishwashing detergent and pull hard.


    Dave, I really recommend to you to try the system with replaceable wishbones. This way you can insert the band in a solid hole, which doesn't weaken the muzzle, and connect the wishbone afterwards. The only catch is that you have to tie your own bands. My experience has been that wishbones go bad before the band so doing it this way make more use out of the bands.

    Quote from Adrian

    Marcos has a good point but it doesn't seem to be a problem with Riffe guns or any of the other guns with the band holes on the same line. I think offsetting the band holes would create a problem when making the hole for the kill spike. The only solution would be to make the muzzle beefier. I don't think accuracy is going to be a problem with this muzzle like Pargo said. I'll let you all know how it performs once I get it.


    I don´t think the kill spike is necessary (in my modest opinion). It will make the gun heavier at the nose , which is already a problem with RA, especially if you use a 7.5 mm shaft.


    Maybe a "non spike" version with the off set should be evaluated.

    Marco Melis

    A bad day fishing is ALWAYS better than a good day at work.

    Marco - Those are valid points, and I would agree that the use of the kill spike is certainly a matter of personal preference. Every aspect of gun design is a compromise.


    The only reason that I would build these is to provide something that doesn't seem to be out there already. There are certainly lots of prettier (and cheaper) muzzles available for anyone who doesn't want the spike.

    Quote from Marco

    I don´t think the kill spike is necessary (in my modest opinion).

    This Saturday diving out of Homestead with Frank and Alan, Alan shot a jack and had a shark go after the fish. If he had a spike he could have defended his catch. He didn't and so had no way to keep the shark away from the speared fish on the bottom, and the shark took the fish. The fish somehow got away and I saw it crippled but swimming. I grabbed this fish by the tail and then I was harassed by a pesky nurse shark. This nurse shark was not the shark that came at Alan but he was persistent, coming up right to the surface, at one point I was looking away and he nudged me like a dog looking for a treat. I poked him hard near the gill area and then he gave me some distance. But I hadn't fired my gun, if I did I still could've poked him with my spike. Alan didn't have a spike.

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