Wong Shafts?

I rub 3in1 oil on my Rob Allen shafts after i'm finished rinsing them off with water. They will last till a fish takes them or bends them ( i have yet to bend a 7.5mm shaft).

Quote from greekdiver

I rub 3in1 oil on my Rob Allen shafts after i'm finished rinsing them off with water. They will last till a fish takes them or bends them ( i have yet to bend a 7.5mm shaft).

That's funny I had a piece of art I made out of bent 17/4 3/8's shafts on my dive den wall. It took me awhile to learn from the Tahitians how to stone a big fish. Sometimes groper would have three feet of shaft on each side of their body and charge into a cave and form a big U shape. That and the cable made those recovery's spooky when deep. I don't kill them now so my shafts last a long time.

Cheers, Don

Quote from Wishihadgills

Would you mind sharing the magic secret to stoning fish?

Easy... get closer and cut open a few fish to find the brain. that is the mental focus no mater what the angle, get the shaft to split the cranium. When I started out I would stare at a image of a AJ and follow the line just in front of the gill plate to the top. That is that fish's sweet kill spot, if you body shoot aim to break the spine.
After many years and thousands of fish it can be done. Harry (greek) is a master at it from the images I see.

Eyes are good to aim at too.

Cheers, Don

Is it just me or does the stainless steel shaft in the experiment have more of a parabolic bend whereas the spring steel shaft has a more linear bend.

I don't know if its my vision or not, but its past my bed time and I'm running on a lack of sleep due to finals..

Get some sleep and just keep studying for finals, you can think about deformation and yield latter..:D
Plus the SS shaft has a flooper made of Osmium and a iridium rivet.;)

Cheers. Don

Quote from Wishihadgills

Tinman: I like your test on the yield stress but I would have to ask about heat treating (tempered) steel. Im sure we agree that heating and cooling steel will cause it to harden ( become more brittle as well) or other affects depending how its done. How much would variation in this process from company to company? What about the heat treating of different alloys?

Different heat treatments will change the final yield stress enormously. But not the Young's modulus. For example, with 17-4 stainless, there are several common heat treatments known as H900, H1150, etc. based on the temperature of the heat treatment. They produce metal with different yield stress, hardness, elongation (brittleness), toughness, and other properties. But the Young's modulus remains nearly constant,

From all this information, it sounds like the cheaper spring steel would be cost effective when hunting reefs and having fish hole up after being shot....meaning a lot more bent shafts.
Where as the more expensive SS shafts would be cost effective for pelagics where you're not bending so many?

I don't think you got it right Hank. All shafts will bend. If you want shafts to be cost efficient learn to straighten them There was a time when I thought that a once bent shaft was trash but not any more.

Let me put it another way; it's true that some fish can really pretzel a shaft and make it too difficult or not worth while to straighten. For me this happens when a shaft is bent in more than two different directions. But within this small window of advantage between the yield stress of the SS shaft and yield stress of the coated shaft that I and Xan were talking about, a SS shaft will never bend that way. It will almost always be a bend in one direction which is easy to straighten.

Quote from Dan

I don't think you got it right Hank. All shafts will bend. If you want shafts to be cost efficient learn to straighten them There was a time when I thought that a once bent shaft was trash but not any more.

I understand all shafts will bend. I'm suggesting that if you're hunting fish that are more likely to bend shafts, you're better off using cheaper shafts.
Some bends, like total 180 curves, can't be fixed. Or at least I haven't been able to fix them.

I think in this case you're better off using a slip tip.

Lets compare some prices:

For your gun you must have full size sharkfin tabs which Rob Allen doesn't have. But the RA shaft is of proven "quality" whereas the DW or KJ shafts are not so I'll include the RA shaft for reference.

Rob Allen (coated), 7.5mm, 150cm two mini pins $54.
DW (coated), 7.5mm, 147cm, two full size sharkfin tabs $38
Pursuit Stainless Steel, 9/32 (7mm), 152cm, two full size sharkfin tabs $53 - $1 Less than the RA shaft, $15 more than the rusting DW shaft.

Quote from Wishihadgills

I like olive oil if I plan on shooting a fish any time soon. Im partial to the taste but for long term storage 3in1 or WD-40 works well.

i though olive oil was a greek thing:D.

Quote from Dan

I think in this case you're better off using a slip tip.

Lets compare some prices:

For your gun you must have full size sharkfin tabs which Rob Allen doesn't have. But the RA shaft is of proven "quality" whereas the DW or KJ shafts are not so I'll include it for reference.

Rob Allen (coated), 7.5mm, 150cm two mini pins $54.
DW (coated), 7.5mm, 147cm, two full size sharkfin tabs $38
Pursuit Stainless Steel, 9/32 (7mm), 152cm, two full size sharkfin tabs $53 - $1 Less than the RA shaft, $15 more than the rusting DW shaft.

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I've used slip tips around the reef but they get expensive
if I miss and hit a rock. I bent a couple up that way.

I had one of DW's 63 inch, 7mm. I used it for a couple months but lost it on a fish that disappeared deep in a "house". It didn't really rust but I was careful about cleaning it and not leaving it in the gun between Sundays.
Thanks for the info. I'll look into the RA shafts. I need to order a reel today too.

Well that's one way of saying you're not interested in a Pursuit shafts LOL that's fine. I made reference to my shafts to make the point that coated shafts are not necessarily cheaper.

I wasn't saying that a slip tip should be used on reef fish. Really I was ahead of myself as I don't know what fish you're after. I kinda assumed you're shooting higher in the water column based on some of your posts Hank. Riffe has a double barb detachable spear point which could work well for saving your shaft shooting big grouper and such. I owned one and took it on a few dives but never got to shoot a fish with it. It's big and heavy, but I suppose if you're regularly targeting big groupers accuracy is not as much of an issue.

JBL makes some inexpensive slip tips for bottom and reef hunting. Old school tri cuts.

Yeah, but be aware those JBL tips have the wire sticking out perpendicular to the shaft and it really messes up accuracy. I couldn't hit anything but point blank with the one I had and that's after I drilled another hole for the wire so it would run on an angle backwards.

Yeah. I rerig with spectra and make a few other mods so I know it will release and toggle.

Coated shafts are junk. Once the coating wears off you are shooting a rusty piece of metal through your dinner,:@
The tip and trigger notch are the first to rust and then the rest of the shaft where it slides down the track. 17/4 Spring Stainless that is properly hardend is the best shaft material on the market. Cheaper is not always better.
I prefer Astroglide on my shaft before any serious spearing.