Got the router table today and just finished assembling it. Its a very nice solid table with a lot of heavy machined surfaces. Going away for the weekend. But next week im gonna get started on the 2x4 mockup.
Got a nice sharkfin style line anchor from dan. As well as a small piece of 5/16 shaft for the shark spike.
Also ordered a big rubber stopper to shape into a butt from mcmaster carr
Nice looking table.
that is a nice router table , i couldn't source one and had to make mine out of 1'' dress ply but having a stable router makes all the difference . good luck , can't wait to see pics of the first cuts .:thumbsup2:
forgot to say [Speargun by Gil] has some nice router videos on youtube that can help . [ can show you a different way of doing things ] sure as hell helped me .
Thanks Tufal. Ive seen some before they are very helpful. I plan to watch them again before getting to work. Plus any others I can find. Routing beyond the typical in hand rounding corners is pretty alien to me.
Went to Home Depot to pick up some wood to make sides for the router table and create a 2x4 test blank. Decided to take a look at the routers since I wasn't really pleased with the precision of the router I was planning to borrow from my dad. It was a bad idea. Once I saw you could adjust the router through the table I couldn't hold back any longer. Happy early birthday to me.
New toys 
Routers are the coolest tools out there, they open up so many options, wether you're building a speargun or a birdhouse.
Still gathering some tools and supplies.
Got pretty much all my stainless parts from Dan including the new Speardiver handle frame (its awesome) Got the rubber from McMaster Carr for the butt. And it came in a 3 pack so I can mess up twice. Also got a nice cheap set of router bits and a few expensive oversized ones. As well as an inexpensive digital depth gauge.
I dont think I got nearly this much stuff for Christmas.:atongue: Luckily my wife really loves fresh fish. :thumbsup1:
My dad also came over tonight and helped me build a table extension for my router table. We used some 3/4 MDF that we Mica'd and cut to fit perfectly. It sits on bolts coming out of flanges on the table and pops on and off easily and nicely.
Time to start building soon.
nice gear man love the ss parts , going to look good on a wood gun .:cool2:
Very nice Mark, you certainly do things right. I'm the same when it comes to tools. If the price of the tool needed for the job is equal to the price of the item, I'd rather buy the tool and do it myself, time permitting. It's a good way to slowly put together a nice shop.
The table extension is great, but the MDF, I used it before and I think it has a tendency to warp.
sweet, let me know when I can drop off the plans to build me a gun
sweet, let me know when I can drop off the plans to build me a gun
If you ever make it back from hawaii hell yeah. Lets see what happens when I start actually cutting though :@
If you ever make it back from hawaii hell yeah. Lets see what happens when I start actually cutting though :@
Yeah I'm eager to see how it works out for you. You've always been thorough with your other endeavors, I think we're all going to be impressed.
i used 3/4 '' dress ply which i have never known to warp .
Looks awesome buddy. Very exciting to watch this progress
Nice table! I think that it will see quite a few guns being made on it. Just wait till you're finished with your first one. 
For a shark spike, I used a ss stand off one time that Woodguy clued me in on for use on roller guns. It was only 1/4" but it is able to be screwed on and off. I think McMaster might have them in larger diameters. The guy I built the gun for says that it's working out fine. He has had to fend off an unwanted visitor already with it. Don't know how it would hold up with a PH though.
Nice table! I think that it will see quite a few guns being made on it. Just wait till you're finished with your first one.
For a shark spike, I used a ss stand off one time that Woodguy clued me in on for use on roller guns. It was only 1/4" but it is able to be screwed on and off. I think McMaster might have them in larger diameters. The guy I built the gun for says that it's working out fine. He has had to fend off an unwanted visitor already with it. Don't know how it would hold up with a PH though.
Thanks, I hope to see the same. Ive made one other short holegun before. It was a good learning experience. But the track and edges were already routed, so I didnt need the router. I really enjoyed it a lot and started thinking about building another gun as soon as I finished.
Thats a very nice way to attach the spike. I was thinking about making it detachable but Im gonna go with permanent and a cap I think. Nice looking gun too
Does anyone have any opinions on how to oil the gun for the first time? Tung or teak or both? Which brands etc? Any advice in this department is appreciated.
My current plan from what ive read is Tung oil first (not sure on brand) and then watco teak oil on top.
I have teak oil here so don't buy.
I've used both the Tung and Teak oil. I don't really see all that much difference. To me, the most important part is the presanding. I use 320 grit before I oil. First coat is applied very liberally and rewet until it stops soaking in. I let stand about 30 min, then wipe excess off. Let dry, preferably in a/c, for several hours but overnight is better. Hand polish, do it again. After 3-4 coats you will get that hand rubbed luster that makes teak look so awesome. Lots of right ways to do it - teak with oil is VERY forgiving.
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