New Combination spike / line guide from Wood Guy

As you know I'm a fan of the shark spike. This is the original drawing that I sent Jeff (Tin Man) which started him on the shark spike idea (see this thread http://spearfishing.world/spea…spike-euro-spearguns.html)

which resulted in this..

and later morphed into the muzzles you spoke of.

The new design you're posting about was also conceptualized by me. I never spoke to Wood Guy about it, but I'm sure I did with Jeff. In any case I dropped the integrated spike/line anchor idea because it's simply not needed on a wood gun. It unnecessarily complicates the build because the whole thing should be countersunk. Instead, a small piece of shaft and a 1" hole in the front of the muzzle is all it takes. You'd be wasting your money if you buy those line anchors.

A nod to Ray Odor, maker of the original kill spike is appropriate. It's amazing he used this same poor quality pic on his website all these years.

and one of his that I modified to fit a Riffe stock (years ago).

Lastly the hole in the muzzle for the shark spike concept expanded to the Speardiver stainless steel speargun muzzle.

Would love to see the new model Hau

Hau screen capture the images

Interesting design. I like Dan's concept of a hole in the front for spike, doesn't look like enough depth on that speargun.

Not to be picky but a countersink screw over a buttonhead might look a little cleaner.

Those look like carbon steel of some sort.

John I dont like drilling holes in the front of my gun where all the energy is released. I really like the simplicity of this design and the fact it surface mounts AND is a line guide all in one. What do you need depth for? its a shark spike to give the buggers a shove off they can feel, its not a harpoon... :laughing:
Could probably mess with a lionfishes day as well me thinks.

I use it to brain fish.

Just be mindful if you find yourself handling the shooting line in front of the gun with a powerful fish on the shaft. If the fish makes a rush the gun can come up behind you and stick you with the spike. Ask me how I know

George, Hole doesn't have to be too big, could be smaller than the shank of the spike. but good point, it shouldn't need too much strength. 1-2 or 1-3 ratio for diameter / depth should be good enough.

The hole could aide in a crack as well. maybe...

It's nice to have different options to choose between.

I was in chat with Wood-guy.

316L SS and 3/16" thick. More strength with button head screws over Countersinks I mentioned earlier.

I was thinking it was 1/4" flat stock.

I like the Flat point better than the round version, easier to make.

But doesn't take a powerhead.

C'mon countersink screws would be plenty strong for this application, this ain't a bayonet.

Quote from Dan

But doesn't take a powerhead.

C'mon countersink screws would be plenty strong for this application, this ain't a bayonet.

The wood threads getting stripped out would come first I would think. Countersink would require extra tool, so less time to make would draw me to button head.

I still like a hole in the front and a sharpened rod in there. That's real easy.

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I stand corrected, you can do the drill and countersink with one tool. Another tool to buy.

You might need to groove the wood a little, or have him leave a feature on back side to fit the existing notch in the wood. or maybe a spacer for slot in wood.

Depending on your tool capacity and motivation....

Measure good so he can get holes to line up.

It's a pretty slick little bit. I like it. I prefer a spike actually in the wood but this would be easier and require less skill

When is your Ulusub arriving?