Found this mono wheel at bass pro shops made for mono leaders. It was $1.99, 6.5 inches diameter.
Has holes at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock with slits that allow the shark fins to go through and a tight squeeze if used on the flopper side. I have 15ft of line in it but it can easily hold 2 wraps.
Found this mono wheel at bass pro shops made for mono leaders. It was $1.99, 6.5 inches diameter.
Has holes at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock with slits that allow the shark fins to go through and a tight squeeze if used on the flopper side. I have 15ft of line in it but it can easily hold 2 wraps.
I use the same ones, I even store my shafts this way until the weekend diving begins.
Hey while I have you on the phone.:D
If you make you mono loop longer as to tuck the swage behind the end of the shaft you'll get more laminar
flow. Did you know the mat camo finish on the P51 killed a small percentage of top speed ?
Cheers, Don
Hey while I have you on the phone.:D
If you make you mono loop longer as to tuck the swage behind the end of the shaft you'll get more laminar
flow. Did you know the mat camo finish on the P51 killed a small percentage of top speed ?
Cheers, Don
I always wondered why Riffes always had such big loops....
What are you guys talking about :confused1:
I always wondered why Riffes always had such big loops....
Jay has been coached for many years, guess where the pin/ line shaft hold down idea came from ?.;)
Don
Did you know the mat camo finish on the P51 killed a small percentage of top speed ?
Makes sense. Maybe we should wax our shafts like Americas Cup racing yachts wax their hulls?
Makes sense. Maybe we should wax our shafts like Americas Cup racing yachts wax their hulls?
Funny you should say that... after heat treat I have my shafts polished, Twenty years ago I welded some Ti
Comp guns for friend. We found some great teflon tape that we stuck on the barrel.
If you start with small changes ie; Ballistic shaped tips, with cleanly faired in wings and low profile thin tabs,
and unkinked mono cleanly swedged to hide behind the shaft, the small changes add up.
I know you guys want pics but my EX ended up with my new digital cam.:rolleyes1:
Cheers, Don
OK I give up 
OK I give up
If you drill the last band tab and make the loop extend past the end of the shaft, the swage can hide behind
the end of the shaft. This will cause less turbulence and less directional drag.
Some guy just add more bands.;)
Cheers, Don
Good tip but might not work so well on an enclosed track gun. I just recently had to deal with this issue.
I like to load both bands on one tab. I also like it when there's only one tab and then I can load by touch almost without looking. I made this shaft out of a two tabbed euro shaft by cutting off the back including the second tab and shaping a square notch. Obviously the shooting line would connect to the one tab which already had a hole for it. I found that because the shooting line loop and crimp were squeezed down right under the loaded bands, on firing the bands would push the crimp into the track and the crimp would damage the top part of the track gouging out wood and creating splinters. Rather than buy another shaft I opted for adding a dog house, I've used this system before and it works fine. All I had to do was bend some SS wire and drill two holes through the shaft. Then have each point on the bottom of the shaft welded at the metal fabrication shop. The welding on the trigger and the doghouse cost me $20 and took 10 minutes for the welder to do.
But come to think of it maybe a longer loop would've solved the problem. I can't believe I didn't think of it. I'll give it a try on my next mono change and post back. Thanks Don.
Dan, the P51 it's a WWII airplane.:)
Thanks.
These things work great!
Simple, clean, cheap.
Now I don't have to carry around a bag of mono, crimps, crimpers.
Thanks for the post Davie,
.Larry O M. . .
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