in this thread i'll outline the process i use to make a bluewater euro gun that shoots a 5/16'' shaft from and enclosed track with 3 16mm or 4 15mm bands.
i own bluetec 125cm carbon gun and i always admired its shape, it shoots a 8mm shaft with 3 16mm bands very well. i also like the shape of the omer cayman, specifically how it's wide in the middle and tapers at the ends. the gun i'm making is a combination of both and it's 150cm long. i wanted it to have good lateral movement so it's wide and thin as well as good horizontal movement and i think the taper in the front helps there. proper balanced is very important in a rear handle gun of this size and it needs to have reasonable recoil so it has to have some mass.
i'm not going to cover the lamination process because it's been done before, sufice it to say that the stock is made up of 6 pieces of honduran mahogany. the dimensions in the rough were 2''x3''72'' and was brought down to 1.625''x2.75''x72'' using the same process i outlined in the thread on the hybrid i posted a few months back. the reason i used mahogany instead of teak is the later material is getting really expensive and it's hard to find pieces with good grain characteristics. i also like the depth of the mahogany grain, when finished it has a really nice, almost translucent look to it compared to the flat, dull look of teak. be prepared, mahogany it much drier than teak and makes a mess with really fine dust that covers the whole shop.
the first step after i center the router table (i use a smaller bit to take a light cut and measure to make sure, see photo) is to install the track. i use an epoxy tube from here http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=144&PHPSESSID=20101007090155597293837 for several reasons. it's super tough, bonds well to wood and it's small diameter allows me to make the gun thinner as opposed to a uhmw track or a poured epoxy version and best of all it's priced right. the .337" id is perfect for a 5/16'' shaft and the .414'' od allows me to cut the channel to embed it into the stock with a 7/16'' bull nose cutter.
as always, the fence of the router table is set and not moved till all the center cuts are completed. with the 7/16'' bull nose bit i cut the length of the track into the trigger mech pocket till i reach the proper depth that will allow the top of the tube to sit flush with the top of the stock which of course is .414''. the next step is to make the strip that covers the top of the tube (most likely this is something that should have done ahead so the router table fence is not moved unless you are confident you could reset it). the width of the strip is again 7/16'' and i use the same bull nose cutter to put a contour on so it will cover the tube flush. if everything fits right it's time to glue. note that the tube comes in 54'' lengths, simply cut another piece and glue them together.
see pics and let me know if you any questions. next is sanding the top flush and cutting the top of the tube to open the track.