Making a Polypropylene Floatline

  • Its riffe waytooexpensive armored spectra floatline. It's really nice but wayy too pricey. I got this one half off at the blue wild and it was still too expensive. But I didnt like the other rope floatlinesI had used ntil that point. Its good for shallow beach dives.But since then Dan showed me that tight twist RA line. I like it almost just as much at a fraction of the cost. 40meters was like 30$

  • Bulky compared to what?

    Quick links for one. I like the looks of your clips, but I agree with Marco they are a bit bulky and over- engineered for a float-line.

    Unfortunately, I do not have my floatline set-up with me here in California or I would share some pictures.

    Quicklinks are along the same principle with the threaded locking mechanism. Think of a standard chain link with a threaded portion on the side. I use the 1/8" diameter links. The are ~1-1/4" in overall length. However they do not have the spring-loaded side gate.

    I also don't care for the U-shackles with the side pin. The flattened portion of the side pin can cut your hands if pulled through your hands as you are handling the shooting line. I don't like anything that stick out, is bulky or too heavy when it comes to floatline hardware. I want a smooth as possible transition between all the connections and everything as light as possible.

  • I'm not out to convince you John, or Marco. I'm too stoked to have been able to source these clips. I'm quite familiar with the quick link, it's what I used previously, and the only connector I trusted. The problem is that even with the stainless steel quick link, after only a few dives the nut threading corrodes and binds, leaving you out there with a permanent link unless you got pliers.

    This snap is not over-engineered, IMO it's minimal and does just what's needed. As you can see in the pic (with a quarter coin for size comparison), the locking snap is only a little longer than the 1/8" quick link. The quick link weighs 20 grams, the locking snap 30g. The locking snap is just as secure, and will never bind. It's quicker to open, and safer because being spring loaded it doesn't stay open when you let go of it. The capture ring allows it to stay exactly where you put it on the line, instead of flopping around. As Reefchief said the capture ring can also be easily removed if not needed. This stainless steel locking snap can be used in many applications where security coupled the ability to quickly disconnect is required.

  • My links look smaller than one you are showing. I understand about the seizing. I have had it happen once or twice. A little anti-seize on the threads goes a long way. But I am also one of those guys that carries a small gear bag with pliers, extra bands, shooting line, swivels, etc. on the boat when I go diving:crazy:

  • I do too, on the boat. I spent some time and money looking for pliers that won't rust. I finally gave up and just keep them in an oiled pouch. Along with other useful tools. But you don't have this luxury when beach diving. That's why I highly recommend these locking snaps.

    The length of the quick link in the pic is 1 7/8" (1.875"). It's the smallest stainless steel one I could find back when I was using them.

  • Found one. Forgot I had this little tagline here.

    I use 9mm heavy-duty swivels on my floatlines. The swivel is integrated into the floatline. The hole is just large enough to accept the quicklink. I can add or remove sections of floatline as needed. I leave the links attached to the floatline, not the gun or shooting line.

    The swivels are rated at 750lbs and I believe the link is rated at 1200.

  • Very nice, it's significantly smaller. Other than the seizing it works very well. Although the nut/threading being smaller I'd guess it tends to seize even more, and then harder to turn with the fingers because it's small.

    Do you remember where you bought it?

  • Another downside to this link Dan, is the gap. It's not much. It won't fit around the D-ring on my float so I have to add a tuna clip. But at least it's on the float end and I don't have to worry about excessive hardware on the business end of the line.

    I can see a lot of uses for your clips outside of the water. Very interested in getting a few. I'll pick some up on the next order:toast:

    I got them from a local marine hardware supplier back when I was making floatlines. I bought them in bulk, so I got them at a very reasonable price.

  • George, attaching the clips to the float line would definitely be an improvement.:toast:
    So split rings between swivel and permanent side of the clip and cordage with Double Fisherman's knot on gun?

    I like things simple and strong... a loop done with the triple fisherman's bend is as strong as the test strength of the line(almost)so 1.8mm spectra can be up to 1000lb breaking strain, so if you have any friends with extra bits you have the easiest, simplest way to join things together that wont rust - not to mention cheep :D.. KISS

    A bad day at sea is better than a good day in the boatyard
    George Steele

  • Awesome feedback guys:thumbsup2:

    I was following this thread on my cell phone today and kept going back and forth on how I would finally put it together. But I kept changing my mind as the thread progressed so I didn't do anything today. I wanted to see how it played out before I made a decision.

    Here is what I’m thinking based on everyone’s input:

    • Although I do want to keep this float line as inexpensive as possible, I believe using a swivel on each side is going to go a long way in keeping this line from tangling. So a swivel on each end will stay.
      • Because I will predominantly be fishing from my boat (I too keep tools onboard) the quick links John mentioned seem like a good option. Especially to create that smooth transition between the connections. The dilemma I have at the moment is weather the streamlining gained by using the quick links vs. Dan’s clips is worth pulling those tools out in order to organize things when back on the boat. I’m really nuts about keeping things organized :crazy: and I like being able to do that quickly. Especially in rough conditions or in the event of an emergency. (I’m leaning toward Dan’s clips on this one).
      • I definitely don't want any additional hardware on the gun side. But I’m not sure how I’ll attach the clips to swivels yet. When I fist read George’s suggestion of using split rings I really liked it but when John talked about streamlining those connections and how he didn’t like shackles because they can hurt you, I thought about how most split rings have a sharp edge and this could get caught on your glove or hand. So I’m leaning toward George’s other suggestion of using cordage.

    And then there is what Reefchief brought up about being able to remove the eye from Dan’s snaps.:thumbsup5: This would throw all of the above out and the window because I could then simply attach the snaps to the existing welded rings on the swivels and be done. ;) The only thing I’d lose with this method is the ability to keep the snap oriented with the small side toward the floatline which I think is important.

    I am currently using a RA floattline with little mod's. I'll take a picture today to show you how it is. My kid's floatlines are Polypro made by myself. I'll take pictures too.

    Looking forward to your pics Marco.

    Thanks everyone! :toast2:

    Edited once, last by Sith ().

  • I dont think the orientation is that big of a deal. Infact it makes them work kind of like a quicklink. you just gotta turn it around before you unclip it but it doesnt bother me at all. Its def not as small as the smallest quicklinks around but I honestly have never found myself going "good lord this snap is so large and cumbersome, I cant even catch fish". Frankly I dont notice them. Infact when I used tunaclips which were much larger those didnt bother me (except with my board being lost). Others may feel differently.

    To me quicklinks and Dans clips are not in the same category. Dans clips are more like tuna clips in their usage. Immediate on/offage when needed. Quicklinks imho can be considered semi permanent without pliers. I wouldn't want to put anti seize on a quick-link because if it unscrews itself there is no spring loaded gate holding stuff in.

    The ability of Dans clips to never seize in salt cant be understated IMHO. Its so nice to twist on the lock and have it always come free instead of "ok that didnt work, now where are my pliers?" Personally that bothers me way more then it being a little bit bulky.

    On most of my stuff I use a combo of small quicklinks or shackles and Dans clips. The determining factor for me is if there is a good chance I will need to use the clip casually to break apart my gear. For that reason I almost always use one of them on the gun side. I find myself always taking the gun off the floatline to store it on the boat. Or my banksboard etc. If I had to get a pair of pliers out every time I took my gun off the floatline I might as well just wear them on my belt. On the other hand I often leave the floatline attached to the float since they dont really need to be separated anyways (unless im changing hunting grounds and switching up gear, at that point pliers are fine) with a quicklink. Although a lot of that was due to having shackles and not enough of Dans clips but I just bought more. Ill always use the smallest non pokey thing possible for coupling floatlines together.

    Edited 11 times, last by Reefchief ().

  • Also, if you want to keep the clips oriented right some twine in a double constrictor right behind the clip will prevent it from ever turning around on you. I may even do it myself.

    Edit: seems to work. have to see if the twine slips but it seems secure. Might not work as well on poly. You can see the RA line in the back.

    Edited 4 times, last by Reefchief ().

  • Might not work as well on poly.

    I was thinking the same thing so how about taking the donut shaped ring that you removed from the snap and cutting a slit in it and then reinstalling it on the snap with the line (or in my case the swivel welded ring). Do you think the donut ring is sturdy enough to be reinstalled with a cut in it?

  • I was thinking the same thing so how about taking the donut shaped ring that you removed from the snap and cutting a slit in it and then reinstalling it on the snap with the line (or in my case the swivel welded ring). Do you think the donut ring is sturdy enough to be reinstalled with a cut in it?

    No I think at that point the ring would be too beat up to serve its original purpose.

  • Nice floatline and some great info in this thread. Personally, I try to avoid the metal on metal connections and use a two inch loop of dyneema to attach tuna clips and swivels to my float lines.

  • Nice floatline and some great info in this thread. Personally, I try to avoid the metal on metal connections and use a two inch loop of dyneema to attach tuna clips and swivels to my float lines.

    Thanks ladvr:)
    Why do you use the Dyneema loop? Is noise an issue or just to simplify the build? I figured it just adds yet another failure point to the rig.:confused1:

  • Not bad Seth. In a pinch you can use a zip tie for a similar effect, of course it's not nearly as streamlined. BTW I remembered I have those swivels if you need them. They're 640 LB if I remember right. They've been sitting around for 4 years, I forgot to put them in the store, as with a few other things..

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